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Old 02-06-2013, 04:16 PM   #76
Romanousky OP
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Originally Posted by PDX Alamo View Post
I'm never one to turn down a beer, I'm in language school to prepare for my own epic trip like yours. I am out by noon every day so ill scout it out for ya. See ya then
That is some serious preparation....wish we would have done the same. What language school are you doing?....and for how long? I haven't even booked one yet. totally unprepared, plan to roll into the country in a week.
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:28 PM   #77
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With head pounding I peak out of the tent to see beautiful pink/purple clouds on the horizon as the sun tries to peak over the edge of the world. I know it is going to be a beautiful day and I’m not going to waste a minute of it on the sidelines. Strap on the Nikes and hit the beach for a rough 3 miles to the far north end of town.



Back at camp I wash up and organize gear and then check some emails. Rinn spots a guy rolling through the campground and says “Hey, that’s Matt and he sells Empanadas if you’re hungry”. Shit I’m always hungry and haven’t had one yet so Matt busts out a cooler full of hot deep fried Empanadas from the Isuzu….one beef, one pollo, 30 pesos later I’m eating well.

Not much to do with little money so I sit and watch the kite surfers and try to spot some whales (only saw one).
Received an email from my mother with news that one of her friends is flying into Guatemala in 2 weeks. Perfect!! I call up Pingle and order a petcock and a vacuum operated fuel valve and have it sent to my folks. Jump on ebay and buy Alex two additional chain rollers (he has lowering links and apparently this causes the rollers to get eaten up much faster).

Feeling better about life already we jump on the bikes and Rinn takes to a lookout point just out of town where you can see a huge portion of coastline with the little town of Los Barriles just below you.



Then Sammi wanted a ride.....rolled down the hill in neutral with her.



Back at the campground we change and get ready for dinner. Heading down the road Rinn picks a taco stand and we place our orders. Dos Tacos Pescado y Una Taco Camaron on Maze Tortillas….Delicious. The restaurant is on the side of the road and our table is 25’ from the centerline in the street. Only our group of 4 and another table with 6 older gringos. Kathump!....everyone turns and stares as a car is moving way to quickly down the little street….bump bump….a dog comes shooting out from under the car directly in front of the restaurant. Immediately welping unable to use its rear legs laying in the center of the street as the car speeds onward. A woman and two men jump up from the table next to us and run to the dog trying to restrain and comfort it. A Hispanic street vendor just up the road comes running and screaming…..her dog is dying.

I have no doubt this is a common incident with the number of dogs running around but as an animal lover (especially dogs) I can’t help but feel a little sick to my stomach. About 5 minutes later the gringos determined that the dog had expired but the whaling in the street continued.

When the woman returned that ran out to help the dog her hand was covered in blood. She seemed very unconcerned and ask the waiter if she could wash it in the sink….thus I figured it was from the dog. Until it was rinsed and I saw them pouring hydrogen peroxide into a series of puncture wounds. OUCH!!

With an appetite that up and vanished we walked further up the road to open mic night. A number of talented gringos performing mostly cover songs the entertainment wasn’t bad but we were beat. Walked back to camp and passed out….didn’t even make it to Baja Midnight (9:00 PM).
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:36 PM   #78
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Time for a boat ride. Packed up and said Audios to all of our campmates. The first 20 miles to La Paz was great. Twisty mountain curves through small towns built on hillsides engulfed by tropical vegetation.

We took the Baja Ferry out of Pichilingue. After arriving a few hours early we got our TVIP’s from a very cute and helpful Hispanic woman that spoke great English…..this seemed like a very positive start. Then off to another booth where we secured our tickets for the ferry (from another attractive woman) but they were sold out of cabins….no big deal we’ll sleep on the deck tonight. Still very early we hit the Pichilingue Playa and had drinks at the cabana.

Time flew by and we found ourselves in line for the boat loading process…not exactly organized.



Waiting at the entrance to the boat we watched the load the semi-trucks. These guys were hauling ass doing this. This one particular truck was turning sharp but clearly wasn’t going to hit the ramp with both tires….the guy on the ramp continued to wave him on clearly unconcerned about any consequences. As you can see he came up short and knocked the massive chrome bumper off the truck….everyone just laughs and carries on as usual…..no wonder everything is beat to shit around here.



Another biker rolls up on a Honda African twin loaded up. I figure this guy has a tale to tell because these bikes are few and far between in the states. His name is Marnix and he is from Holland traveling around the world with his girlfriend Lisan (Lee-zon). Finally rolled the bikes onto the boat. Right between nice tie down points for motorcycles. Did they have tie downs….they claim not to have any but I suspect a case of laziness. Ropes were much closer at hand and that is what we were given. I’m sweating this after the first tie down gasoline incident but what can you do?





After tying down the bikes we head to the elevator for the lobby. It is small and my bags way too much and the damn thing won’t take me up. I’m sweating crazy and the boat is full of diesel exhaust fumes and I am not a happy camper. Head for the stairs….5 stories up near vertical carrying 80 lbs of gear plus my fat ass in full ride attire and MX boots on. Seriously thought I might black out before I got to the top.

Onto the deck I take a seat, catch my breath, and look around. Disgruntled truck drivers starring at the gringos. I am feeling rather uncomfortable and Alex is sweating this scene pretty good. Definitely not going to get much sleep tonight. Al races to the lobby and puts our names on a list for a cabin in case of a cancellation. 90 minutes later we disembark and learn that we scored a cabin…..Thank goodness, Sleep is possible!

Make it to the room. No dinner….grab a few beers. Boat starts rocking like a suburban at a drive in theater. I’m not too prone to sea sickness but up on the 6th floor this thing has me feeling shitty quickly. Luckily a little forethought was used and we picked up Dramamine in Los Barriles. That calmed things down.



Invited Marnix and Lisan over for a couple beers and talked traveling for the better part of an hour. They started in Holland, rode through Europe, Turkey, Iran, India, Malaysia, Laos, fill in the blank for a number of others until they shipped to LA, rode down Baja and met us in La Paz. Pretty incredible!!
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:41 PM   #79
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Slept okay but the boat was shifting us from one side of our bunks to the other. Oh well, at least all I have to do is ride a dirt bike for the day. Free breakfast was terrible…cafeteria style with all the truckers…runny beans and powdered eggs.

Down in the hold the bikes were still standing to my amazement. Got off the boat and could feel the humidity had jumped 10 fold and we immediately had cross through a military check point. Questions that I don’t have answers for is the name of the game.

We paired up with the Dutch couple and made our way to San Blas. 170 miles of pavement pounding on toll roads that we were charged an arm and leg for however everyone recommends it as it is much safer. Primarily rolling hills with lots of farming happening. Finally some tropical vegetation (Agave, Cocoa Trees, Jackfruit, etc…).

San Blas is made out to be some kind relaxed surfer’s paradise however we didn’t see this at all. Rather run down with a major lack in tourism. Find a cheap spot at an RV park and setup for the evening.



Pretty poor conditions with the gnats eating us alive until a few hours after dark. Alex and I picked up our standard dinner of tortillas, refried beans, salsa, and a couple beers. Ate on my fancy tarp as we watched the real travelers cook up a delicious meal of macaroni with onions, tomatoes, garlic, eggs, and probably other good stuff. But we had more beer…they should take notes.



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Old 02-06-2013, 04:53 PM   #80
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Got up in the morning….wet….damn! I don’t like the rain fly because the wind blows through the tent and feels niiiiiiice. Well, we were right under some palm fronds and the dew dripped on us half the morning. Strung up a line in the sun and took a shower in the filthy bath house thing.

Then packed gear as the gnats began feeding again. Stopped in town and got fuel and more air for the tires. They have sweet air filling stations. Just type in the desired pressure and inflate.



Finally on the road with the wind in our faces we pounded on the Tequila. Mostly just Agave fields along the roads with the tropics deteriorating as we drove inland (higher elevations and no gnats). We were riding around 4500 ft. most of the time.

Entering Tequila:





The home of Jose Cuervo, Sauza, Don Julio, you name it they are here. After wandering aimlessly though town for an hour or so and sweating profusely we found Hostel Viejo. After a little haggling we landed in a room for all four of us.



Change clothes and get our on the streets for some taste testing.
We took a tour of the El Gran Jubileo distillery. Quite interesting, but won’t bore you with the particulars. However they do get there white oak barrels from Kentucky (used).















Tour was great, tasting was great, felt obligated to purchase something so the Dutch couple purchased a nice bottle for $8.


Off to the town square it was quite the happening place. Little to no tourists so we stuck out like a sore thumb but no worries on our part. The scenery is much much nicer on mainland than on Baja if you know what I mean.



After our stroll we grabbed ice, grapefruit, bananas, oranges, and juice. Back at the Hostel Alex and Lisan whipped up some Tequila daiquiris. Not bad but nothing to write home about.



Then the Americans learned a new game that was a hybrid mix of poker and WAR. The booze didn’t last long but Alex and I gained a lot of valuable information in regards to traveling from these great folks. Salud! To Marnix and Lisan. We hope to meet up further south.
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:04 PM   #81
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Awsome guys. Im jealous ::
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:16 AM   #82
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Hooty... Just what I need on this drab Portland February night!
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:28 PM   #83
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Awsome guys. Im jealous ::
Thanks Kevin! We told you to come along...atleast you got Baja. I can't wait to tak a few months just to ride the peninsula all offroad.
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:33 PM   #84
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Hooty... Just what I need on this drab Portland February night!
Glad we can help console you. It only took me a few months of reading RR's before I just quit work and joined the club to get out of the rain. It will be nice to come home during the positive 3 months....where you from? Take care
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Old 02-08-2013, 02:12 PM   #85
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After much debate we headed back to the coastline to visit one of Alex’s friends….Franky. Our stopping point is Colima and then on to La Ticla where Franky is staying. A rather boring drive through a flat valley between mountain ranges. We parted ways with the Dutch couple just outside Tequila and made our way into Colima around 2:00 pm.

My gps has the streets of Colima on the screen but none of it is routable…thus useless. Sweating balls and driving around town looking for a hostel that ends up not existing. Locate a motel and settle down for some internet time.

Stinky laundry got washed in a dry bag with soap and hung to dry in the room. Rather uneventful but I did get some melon juice and one of the best pork tacos on the street money can buy (actually it was free at the Sunday market so bang for buck was nearing infinity).



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Old 02-08-2013, 02:29 PM   #86
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The Cartel’s of Michoacán and Guerrero and currently warring with each other and we read some horror stories about the MEX200 (highway) but decided to go for it anyway.

Entered Michoacán around ten in the morning and there was a massive military presence. More so at this border than any other thus far. The road narrowed and the trees hung over close to the road. Almost like a tunnel. Occasionally you would see a Humvee with a few machine gun wielding sentries set back in the bushes. I was a little concerned…..to say the least. You could tell you were in a different environment because there were no kids playing in the street and the graffiti increased 10 fold.

Made it over to the coastline and the ever increasing views became more and breathtaking. Not to mention the tremendously windy roads required more concentration thus alleviating my focus on how to handle a “situation” if one were to occur.





Never saw a sign for La Ticla (Frankie’s town) but turned onto a nice cobblestone/concrete road right after crossing a specific river that we were informed about. Following the small aqueduct along the road we eventually made it to the beach and met Franky.



Town sign....all the way down on the beach AFTER you travel through town:



Lots of gringo (20-30)…strange. Apparently this beach has a great surf break and many of the kids in school around Guadalajara come for vacation.

Sat down with Franky and got beers and the best Ceviche I have ever had. Good thing because we were actually going to camp right under the Palapa of this restaurant/bar.



Then went up to the house that Franky was born in and put our bikes away in the backyard. And Alex tried to catch some chicks





Changed clothes and settled in back at the beach. Franky has a lot of relatives and knows a lot of history about this place because of the past generations of his family. I’m not going to get into it but basically the Cartel’s are in charge here. They understand what Tourism does for the community and are not here to discourage it. They deal with problematic people within the community to help make it safe. But when it comes to the military, they are not fans …..Franky knows people…we met people…we’re cool on both fronts. The end.

After a little drinking and BSing we head to his uncle’s place for dinner. Lobster and fried fish. Only locals can catch/eat Lobster (and turtle eggs) so we are feeling quite privileged. It was a great meal.





We were also served Hamikah (spelling??). It is like an iced tea sort of drink made from a local flower. This is a photo of me with my glass of Hamikah, standing next to the flower it was produced from, with Frankies nephew in the backyard.



La Ticla is a community of longstanding generations. Nobody owns land so nobody can buy land. No big hotels or vacation homes. Almost every dwelling has an ocean view.

The town aqueduct that Alex really wanted to float down in an inner tube:



Back at camp we watched the sun set and continued to have fun. At one point I fired up my headlight to get something from the tent. The ground was moving….what the hell!! Alex runs to the nearest chair hops up off the sandy floor. “Franky what the fuck is this”, “chill out man they’re just hermit crabs”…”well what am I supposed to do, I don’t want to hurt them”. “hahahahahahaha”. This was pretty funny but I have never seen this quantity of hermits in my life. The pictures do not do it justice. All around us they were just shuffling around moving to and fro. I’ll keep my bare feet propped up on the table during evening hours in La Ticla.





Then had a fire on the beach and soon hit the sack.


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Old 02-08-2013, 03:58 PM   #87
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Watched the sun rise and then headed up the hill into town to Frankies where we were going to get a traditional breakfast. Before we headed into town we spotted a sea turtle that had come up to lay its eggs. Dumbass was at the wrong beach…..you’re supposed to be about 10 miles further south silly turtle. Back into the ocean it swam.



Quesadilla’s with homemade tortillas and local cheeses…..and salsa made right on the spot. Our cook had soaked the maze to break down the enzymes the night before so it was ready for the “stone grinding” process before being pressed flat. Really a fantastic process cooking on the earthen clay fire stove.





Then we hopped on the bikes and cruised south to stop in a see the local beaches that Franky grew up on. The first was where the turtles all come to lay their eggs.







The last stop was the swimming hole where Franky learned to swim. It was my favorite. Up high on the south hill is a lighthouse. Centrally located on a rock formation is a Palapa for drinks and a view. To the north is an inlet where the ocean is calm and deep for swimming. The crescent shaped nook of white sand beach is lined with Palapas but nobody dining.











We order more ceviche and cerveza’s. Finally decide to get into the water. Alex and I have been in Mexico for 2 weeks now and have not set foot into the ocean. Pathetic huh? Well, within 3 minutes of swimming around I get stung by a jelly fish. I’ve been stung before in Australia so I know the feeling. This one wasn’t too bad at all but left a line of red dots along my forearm with a nice stinging feeling. A little lime juice and it subsided pretty quickly.

Back to La Ticla the sun was setting and I was beat. After a garlic fried fish dinner I passed out in the hammock.
I can’t tell Franky thank you enough because this experience has been the highlight of the trip thus far. Salud!



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Old 02-08-2013, 04:16 PM   #88
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Today we got back on the bikes and road to Troncones. Only 120 miles or so but we didn’t hear good things about Zihautenajo or Ixtapa and those were the only other towns we were willing to ride to.

I stopped in the middle of highway just to take this picture because I have seen the Shawshank Redemption at least 10 times. Great movie.



Arrived early afternoon and immediately got flagged down by a guy in a Jetta who said he has a hotel. How much? $25. Cool we’ll take a look. Follow him back to his place. It’s about ½ mile out of main hotel territory, it has a pool, decent parking for the bikes, WiFi, and looks clean on the surface. Sure we’ll take it.



One of our biggest downfalls is getting to a town and spending 2 hours in the sweltering heat trying to find a place to stay with everything we need (WiFi, good parking, semi-clean). Otherwise you might as well camp.

We settle in and the place is crawling with ants. Not that big of deal. Hang by the pool and do the email thing. Back in the room I spy a giant rat turd on my bed. This bums me out. I wish we would have checked the other hotels. Especially because they were all in a row, on the beach, and we got in early.

Then ride into town and get tortillas, beans, canned hot peppers, and spoil ourselves with sour cream and a little chorizo sausage. Cooked dinner in the outside kitchen and finished up with the internet.





Brushing my teeth and go to spit in the sink and there is an ant the size of pinky finger pulling some large egg looking thing up out of the drain. I don’t like this place. I roll out the tent on my bed, unzip the door and climb in. Rats can scurry all over me tonight.
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:20 PM   #89
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Woke up….not really because I didn’t sleep all last night. Totally exhausted we gear up and get on the road by 7:00 AM. First I check the internet and my little sis sees that we are close to Acapulco and warns me to avoid it. Shit! We were planning on staying in Acapulco for 2 nights to rest up, change oil, etc… This is probably the 5th person that has told me to stay away from the once party/money/vegas style mecca.

Acapulco is 180 miles away and this is a solid days’ ride. We like to keep it around 200 or less if possible. The next town on the list is Puerto Escondido. Another 240 miles past Acapulco.

We roll into Acapulco around noon. Large houses on hilltops that appear to have vegetation sprouting through the windows…..abandoned. Deeper into town it doesn’t seem like a friendly place but not too bad. Eventually it gets super busy, hot, and the commuters are fussy. I make a wrong turn and lead us off the highway and into the center of Acapulco.

Problem 1: our GPS maps are not very good. There are new roads/HWY’s/etc…. that are not always shown. (I’m using OSM maps)

Problem 2: Signs are not posted in Mexico until you are right at the exit/turn/etc… No ¼ mile warning luxuries here.

Problem 3: We are too busy trying not to get run over to pay much attention to where we are actually going.

Center of downtown is not moving. Horns blaring and heat radiating off every surface distorting vision that is already poor due to sweat running down the inside of my glasses. We are stuck and not happy. Everyone is glaring at us and we are sitting behind a large school bus from the 70’s hauling unhappy folks. Two younger guys walking down the side walk eye balling us pretty hard. One steps into the street, I nod to him, no reaction, keeps going but a little close for my comfort. Alex sitting right behind me. They stop about 5 feet behind Alex just milling in the street talking looking over at the back of Alex’s bike. I’ve got the handle bars cocked, left hand holding the clutch in, right hand down on the extendable baton strapped just behind my right calf, watching the rearview waiting for some action.

Talking to Alex on the intercom and ask him if we should just try to go around the bus. “Yeah dude this isn’t cool let’s get out of here these guys are watching me hard”. Sharp to the right then left and I’m alongside the bus. I can’t fit between the bus and car parked on the side of the street. Now we’re sandwiched in next to a bus with a bunch of people staring at us. The guys behind us take a few steps but keep talking with each other still looking our way. “Hey Al should I jump the curb”…”Uhhhhhh, I don’t think so”.

Granted, the sidewalk is full of people but I will say that I am much more willing to make illegal maneuvers on the bike than Alex. With all the traveling I have done I feel that bikes for the most part have their own set of rules….and I’m not sure I could name a single one.

After what feeling like an hour the light changes, the bus starts moving, and we zip away. Only a few blocks later we reconnect with the highway. “Fuck I need a cigarette”, “I’m not stopping in this shithole Alex”.

It’s half past noon and we’ve decided to ride all the way to Puerto Escondido. We gotta move quick because arrival time is right around 6:30 and that means dark = not friendly people.

We drive as fast as the bikes will allow us = not very fast. We make up time in two ways. 1) corners, twisty sections, etc… 2) Intercity (explanation below)

The highways (2 lane roads) run directly through the center of all towns. Exits are not required. There are speed bumps called Topes. They vary in size, shape, and quantity. Usually at the beginning and end of town as well as a few dispersed throughout depending on city size….sometimes. They also have them in the middle of fucking nowhere. I know you are picturing a nice yellow sign 100 yards prior to this nicely painted bump in the road but you are mistaken. Picture no sign. Picture no paint on said bump. Picturing hitting said bump at 50 mph with no warning whatsoever. I’ve looked at my rims more than once looking for dents. Many of them are painted and marked but a few of them can really jump up and scare the piss right out of you. The good part about these is that all vehicles come to a halt when crossing them. This allows us to zip right past large sections of traffic rather easily and somewhat safely. Much better than doing it in the winding hilltop roads.

About four in the afternoon we exit Guerrero and enter Oaxaca (wah-haka). I have read good things about Oaxaca and am quite pleased to be here. The landscape isn’t quite as nice but the towns are obviously more upbeat and a positive vibe is radiating. I feel good. Only 3 more hours to Puerto Escondido.







My ass feels like I went down a 100 foot water slide that had 4 feet of sand paper glued right at the exit chute. Wet and raw I ask Alex what he thinks about trying some Maxi pads in the future.

The last 30 miles before hitting PE were gorgeous. Rainforest vegetation, cattle, people working in the rivers, lagoons, etc…. still a little shy on wildlife but we’ll get there.

Drive into town, sun is gone but still putting out a bit of light. Thank God we made it. Now to find a hotel. We try to head for the beach, get a little lost, then spot a large pink hotel that looks good. We are going to spend a little extra today because we’ve been camping and we just drove 420 miles on dirt bikes. They want $75 for a room. I get it for $40. Score, first room with air conditioning. Pool right outside our room, decent WiFi, decent parking, and beds that don’t have springs sticking out. To top it all off the bar serves great food with prices matching most of the ‘street’ food we have eaten. Sign me up for at least two nights.

We deserve Tequila shots:



....And Michalada's



...AND Nachos and fried chicken tacos


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Old 02-08-2013, 07:38 PM   #90
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Awesome ride

Looks like you gents are having a hell of an adventure. Ask around, I can't remember the name but there is a lagoon nearby where sometimes fluorescent algae blooms and you can go at night to throw rocks in the lake and watch it glow.
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