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Old 06-11-2014, 12:10 PM   #1
c4nuck OP
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Removing HID

The guy I bought my bike from had installed HIDs High & Low. The low isn't too bad since it "heats" up and is full power in ~5 secs. Problem with having HID on the High beam is I need it right then in most cases.

Since I don't know what he changed out wiring wise, I am trying to work it backwards from the bulb itself. I gave it a quick look lastnight and it seem like the connectors right above the air intakes are stock, 2 each side. From that point I'm not sure what he mucked with.

I looked on my repair cd for a hint and the parts fiche but that didnt really help.

Can one of you post a pic or two of their stock setup from the bulp to the connectors nearby behind the fairing?

Muchos Grassy-ass....
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Old 06-11-2014, 05:45 PM   #2
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There is only one plug that goes into the headlight unit. What year? How bout you post a pic of what you have and we'll go from there. I have harness bits if somethings missing. 2 smashed headlights too.
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Old 06-11-2014, 06:20 PM   #3
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2010. Looks like the stock connections from the blue and red wire go into the boot, along with 3 wires coming from the ballast boxes. I'm assuming stock boot only has 2 wire coming out?



Messing with another needed job right now...

Who wants to guess what cooked this weekend?!
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Old 06-11-2014, 06:37 PM   #4
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HID drew to much power? Stators never fail.


Your wiring is all wrong. Not like stock. I'll get a pic up shortly.
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Old 06-11-2014, 06:44 PM   #5
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This is stock. One plug. I have spare non-holey caps and the headlight internal wiring if yours is too F'd up.


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Old 06-11-2014, 08:05 PM   #6
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Eek

Wow. Yeah previous owner hacked the wiring and the housing by the looks of it

View if the high side:

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Old 06-11-2014, 11:10 PM   #7
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You need to take a look at the lights (with the bulbs in/out) with the caps removed.

The stock wiring can be connected to standard connectors and with a hole drilled through the caps (and the rubber grommet) going off to the HID ballasts. From the HID ballasts, the wiring comes back through the rubber grommet back into the HID bulbs.

So if done right, only the caps need to be drilled and rubber grommets used in place of the holes drilled into the caps in order to help ensure water tightness.

Take off the caps, and see if the original connectors are there. You might simply be able to get away with new caps and putting back the stock bulbs.
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Old 06-12-2014, 10:26 AM   #8
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Just looked at the parts fiche again and saw the removable cap. Didn't notice that before.

Hopefully the stock wiring is intact and I can just remove his stuff like you said. I just don't like having added stuff on the bike when I didn't do it...
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Old 06-12-2014, 12:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c4nuck View Post
Just looked at the parts fiche again and saw the removable cap. Didn't notice that before.

Hopefully the stock wiring is intact and I can just remove his stuff like you said. I just don't like having added stuff on the bike when I didn't do it...
Yeah, it's a doozy if you haven't done it yourself (the wiring).

1. Remove the caps, particularly the high beam one
2. You should be able to see the bulb in there, and remove it.

The wiring from the bulb should go out to the grommet, but there should also be a two-pin connector with one brown wire (and I think the other is white) still in there also going out through the grommet (making 4 wires in total).

If the connector is not there and you see butt connectors, solder or some sort of splice, then I'd hazard a guess that the wiring was "hacked". But if the connector is there...

You should then be able to replace the bulb and simply put the connector onto a new bulb. You'll have to go to BMW and get another cap (about $13) and simply backtrack the wiring to the ballast and ballast to the battery.

The reason why I bring up starting with the high-beam first is that the HID appears to be an improvement on the low-beam side and you may want to keep it in there. There are potentially upgrades for just the high-beam side (LED's) that give you the same ability to "flash to pass" that may be useful.
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Old 06-12-2014, 01:45 PM   #10
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Thanks for the info, yes, I was primarily looking at removing the High Beam, due to the required heat up time.

Still on the fence with lo-beam, since I haven't seen what OEM looks like I don't know if having the extra "stuff" is worth it.

Also, around the battery there is alot of relays and wiring taking up real estate. The kit he installed looks to be good quality from the connectors used, but those take up space.

Once I get my bike running again with the new stator I'll dig into this.

Thanks guys.
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:57 AM   #11
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OK finally got to it, looks like the cap was drilled to let in and out the HID wiring. theres a connector to the stock wire that runs out to the ballast, then a wire runs back through the rubber boot to the HID bulb. I ordered some new caps and it looks like thats all that is required to "de-HID" it.
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