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Old 01-12-2013, 05:33 PM   #31
kipo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash n bern View Post
I have always carried two tubes and all the gear andd can change tyres with out too much drama.
. On my last ride I got a flat, I stared at the tire and went, frig it, I can't be buggered doing this in the bush. I'd rather fix it at camp so I can have a coffee first. So I rode some 25 odd K's through the bush and then 10 down the bitumen on the flat. Brand spanking new Geomax too. When I got to camp I spotted an expresso van and while I was getting my coffee spotted a bloke changing tyres for $20 a pop. So I sat in a comfy chair sipping my flat white watching my tube get changed for $20 plus tube. Total gold, The geomax held up well too.

So this got me thinking, if someone got a coffee van and put a tyre changing machine in it and went 'On call' they'd make a killing.
A bloke to change your tyre, expresso van, comfy chair, fuck me I must be riding in the wrong places.

Our normal procedure is all your mates stand around, give advice and laugh while you fix it.
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Old 01-12-2013, 05:34 PM   #32
pete40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash n bern View Post
.....

So this got me thinking, if someone got a coffee van and put a tyre changing machine in it and went 'On call' they'd make a killing.
Where do you go "camping"? Noosa?

If a man was to set up such a business, he would need to be prepared to travel.
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:39 PM   #33
Young-Gun
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Originally Posted by DR Steve View Post
Hi Kipo,

I made a 'thingo' too. Mines a little different as it uses a peice if all thread that you cand wind up by hand, but the same priciple applies.

If you drill a small hole in the front area of the bash plate, you can poke the end of your lifter into it to lift the front wheel too !
Good ideas! Save's the hunt for a decent branch:

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Old 01-13-2013, 08:15 PM   #34
rutsthematter
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You can use a cable tie/tape to hold on the front brake.
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:24 PM   #35
Young-Gun
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You can use a cable tie/tape to hold on the front brake.
Pure genius, thanks
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:38 PM   #36
UncleGra
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Hey there young gun...I would keep that big tank...that is one handy bit of gear ...ridden sensibly you should get up to 650Km...ya dont have to fill it up...you might want to go west one day...
I have a new unused 17 ltr....but its nor for sale.
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Old 01-13-2013, 09:50 PM   #37
rmhrc628
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I carry all the tyre changing gear including those plastic rim protectors.

I also try the car tyre inflator can stuff first off as often that gets you back to civilization first go.

The valve wire holders are excellent for dragging the valve into its hole.

But yeah carrying 2 tubes, pump etc is the price you must pay.
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:21 PM   #38
Young-Gun
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The valve wire holders are excellent for dragging the valve into its hole.
Do you have a pic of these? I assume this is for reinstallation?
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:22 PM   #39
crash n bern
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kipo View Post
A bloke to change your tyre, expresso van, comfy chair, fuck me I must be riding in the wrong places.

Our normal procedure is all your mates stand around, give advice and laugh while you fix it.

Same here. I sweep ride for Ray Bucanhan at his Woodenbong and Urbenville rides, as I was riding back with the flat I thought "Gee how good would it be if someone had a tyre changing setup, and a expresso machine would go well too". and when I got there low and behold my prayers had been answered.

I took the tyre off when I got home and drilled the rim a threw another rimlock in. Seems that Husaberg 650's need two rimlocks to stop tearing valve stems out.
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:42 PM   #40
crash n bern
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmhrc628 View Post
I carry all the tyre changing gear including those plastic rim protectors.

I also try the car tyre inflator can stuff first off as often that gets you back to civilization first go.

The valve wire holders are excellent for dragging the valve into its hole.

But yeah carrying 2 tubes, pump etc is the price you must pay.

The valve pullers are a god send and saves ten minutes of squashed fingers trying to get a valve in. Drilling the valve hole larger is a good idea too.


These will help a lot as well. Get at least 4 of them.
http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/...ail-bead-buddy

And get half a dozen of these for the shed. Make life a lot easier.
http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/...oad-bead-buddy

Buy a good quality high volume MTB pump, look at spending up to $50, nothing worse than a shit pump when your in the bush. Don't bother with the push on type as it's too much frigging around trying to get them on right. Get one with the hose and throw away the plastic valve connector and go to Auto barn or somewhere and get a replacement metal valve connector like they have on car pumps where you push it on and fold down/up the lever to lock it on. Or if you find an old brass car pump at a swap meet use the brass fitting from that as they're better than the cheapo Chinese ones you can buy now.

And buy good tyre levers, Michelin are the best, but those spoon ones they sell now on Torpedo7 seem to be pretty good too. Ballards have their own copy of the Michelin and they're probably ok as well.

Years ago I used to run tyre sealant like Slime in my road bikes, they help balance and stop flats. I had good success with it, but for some reason I just never get around to using it anymore.
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:27 AM   #41
UncleGra
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This one works good ..uses CO2 things as well..you can set the bead with this one just by hand...I've had it since 06...Name on the business end says Topeak....dont forget ..99... 100 change hands...

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Old 01-14-2013, 01:18 AM   #42
outback jack
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Old ringers trick in the west, fill your tubes with acyrilc paint.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:27 AM   #43
Warin
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Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
My pump is a Topeak Mountain Morph which is a decent size and a Topeak D2 gauge. The Mini Morph is another good option.
The Topeak Morphs all have
a tube between the pump and the tyre valve
a foot that means the bottom of the pump can be held on the ground with your foot
a fold out handle that gives a good grip for your hand

Those all help with pumping up your tyre.

I like the road morph best at that comes with a rough air pressure gauge, good enough for me and my estimated air pressures. You could also go with Len Beadells' method - count the number of strokes to go from flat to your required pressure and simply use that from then on.

On any of these pumps watch for bits loosening off and separating from the pump... best if they are in a bag so said bits don't get lost.
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:08 AM   #44
fayeslane
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Old ringers trick in the west, fill your tubes with acyrilc paint.
What colour?
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:10 AM   #45
Reckless Relic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outsider580 View Post
I pulled the wheel off the Klr last night and had a go at changing the tube ( first attempt)
I got the tyre off Ok and replaced the tube but it looks like I have pinched the new tube with the levers while getting the tyre back on.

Any tips for avoiding that ?

The tyre had a Horseshoe nail in it.......
Don't worry we've all done that, the best way Ive found to prevent it is to put a bit of air into the tube just enough to round it out into the tyre itself the other thing that can help is to make sure you don't try and force too much at once take it in little steps particularity as you get to the last bit.
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