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Old 01-14-2013, 01:10 AM   #46
Reckless Relic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outsider580 View Post
I pulled the wheel off the Klr last night and had a go at changing the tube ( first attempt)
I got the tyre off Ok and replaced the tube but it looks like I have pinched the new tube with the levers while getting the tyre back on.

Any tips for avoiding that ?

The tyre had a Horseshoe nail in it.......
Don't worry we've all done that, the best way Ive found to prevent it is to put a bit of air into the tube just enough to round it out into the tyre itself the other thing that can help is to make sure you don't try and force too much at once take it in little steps particularity as you get to the last bit.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:55 AM   #47
rutsthematter
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Originally Posted by Young-gun-640 View Post
Do you have a pic of these? I assume this is for reinstallation?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tire-tyre...item27ccbbfd24
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:03 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outsider580 View Post
I pulled the wheel off the Klr last night and had a go at changing the tube ( first attempt)
I got the tyre off Ok and replaced the tube but it looks like I have pinched the new tube with the levers while getting the tyre back on.

Any tips for avoiding that ?

The tyre had a Horseshoe nail in it.......
When you have everything nearly in place (before you seat the final bead), put some air into the tube, just enough to puff it up. That gives it a better chance of it moving itself out of the way. Let the air back out and do the final seating.

(Is a bitch, practice helps but pinching a tube is always a risk ...)

Another tip, once you have the old tube out run a hand around the inside, check for more stuff poking through.

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Old 01-14-2013, 02:13 AM   #49
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tire OMG fix

I carry all that gear and a bottle of Slime. The last flat I had the srew was very close to the center of a tubed tire. Slimmed it and road for another 150 miles before I replaced the tire. Dont' forget to be nice to the shop and tell them the tire has slime in it.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:29 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by fayeslane View Post
What colour?
Red or white, if your tyre goes flat use the paint to right SOS on the road or across your bald head.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:57 AM   #51
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Well I now have my bike kitted out with everything I think I would need for dealing with another flat tyre,
Hopefully next time I'll be able to get myself home.

Might go for another run tomorrow if the weather looks ok.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:20 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by Warin View Post
The Topeak Morphs all have
a tube between the pump and the tyre valve
a foot that means the bottom of the pump can be held on the ground with your foot
a fold out handle that gives a good grip for your hand

Those all help with pumping up your tyre.

I like the road morph best at that comes with a rough air pressure gauge, good enough for me and my estimated air pressures. You could also go with Len Beadells' method - count the number of strokes to go from flat to your required pressure and simply use that from then on.

On any of these pumps watch for bits loosening off and separating from the pump... best if they are in a bag so said bits don't get lost.

Mountain Morph has a barrel that is about 6mm larger in diameter and same length for about 1.5x the volume and fewer strokes. It is good at low tyre pressures and okay at the high pressures required by the Tubliss bladder. Most people wouldn't worry about the latter.
I've never had a problem with them coming apart. In any case it fits in my tool bag.
Inline gauges tend to get busted with me. I prefer separate gauge for this and I don't have to pull the pump out to check pressures.

The Len Beadell method (?) is useful even when a pressure gauge is available.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:37 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 955616846 View Post
Mountain Morph has a barrel that is about 6mm larger in diameter and same length for about 1.5x the volume and fewer strokes. It is good at low tyre pressures and okay at the high pressures required by the Tubliss bladder. Most people wouldn't worry about the latter.
I've never had a problem with them coming apart. In any case it fits in my tool bag.
Inline gauges tend to get busted with me. I prefer separate gauge for this and I don't have to pull the pump out to check pressures.

The Len Beadell method (?) is useful even when a pressure gauge is available.
I have the same pump as Numbers for a few years now, a good quality pump.
If you travel off the beaten track it doesn't hurt to put on your new tyres yourself with the gear that you carry with you, practice can save you a lot dramas when you are away from the latte machine.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:01 PM   #54
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If carrying spare tubes around regularly, especially in a tube bag on the fender etc, I've found it pays to take the tube, lightly inflate then deflate again and re-pack the opposite way every now and then to avoid constant chaffing, & the lovely surprise that this tube you've been lugging around for a year is useless when really needed.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:48 PM   #55
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If I'm trail riding I take a spare front tube and tools. Just riding down the highway I'll usually call someone to pick me up in a ute (that's only happened once, and it was my own fault: the pressure was really low and I had no bead lock. It slipped and tore the valve stem off). I know a local tow truck who only does motorcycles and he's cheap, since it's just a 4wd with a trailer.

I almost always do my own tyre changes. It's good to be practiced! The local bike shop fits them for "free" but they often give me a small discount if I fit it myself.

Something to keep in mind, when the tyre is warm from riding it is *much* easier to work with. With practice it really is a 5 to 10 minute job on the side of the road, but always takes longer at home in the garage.

Sometimes I wonder if those bicycle puncture repair patches work on a motorcycle? They're good for ~100psi but I suppose motorcycle tubes get a lot hotter than bicycle tubes.... I think I'll try them on my next flat. It's probably good enough to get home?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Young-gun-640 View Post
If I saw one of my mates going through all that trouble, I'd give the bike a healthy kick. Laying a dirt bike on it's side for a while isn't gonna do any harm. Are you afraid it will get dirty?
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abhibeckert screwed with this post 01-14-2013 at 01:55 PM
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:27 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abhibeckert View Post
If I saw one of my mates going through all that trouble, I'd give the bike a healthy kick. Laying a dirt bike on it's side for a while isn't gonna do any harm. Are you afraid it will get dirty?
Haha try removing and re-fitting a rear wheel while the bike is napping
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:38 PM   #57
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Once you've changed mousse tubes at home in the shed doing normal tubes is like fixing push bike tyres.
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:49 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Young-gun-640 View Post
Haha try removing and re-fitting a rear wheel while the bike is napping
Depends on the bike I guess, but I've done it several times with no issues.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:12 PM   #59
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for those of you new to the whole tyre changing thing this two-part instructional video I think portrays the best technique, changing tyres is only hard when you're doing it wrong.



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Old 01-14-2013, 03:16 PM   #60
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I've also heard a good rubber safe grease liberally applied to the inner tube works better then talc for preventing chaffing and pinching as talc just turns to mush after the first ride through heavy rain or a creek crossing anyway.

I use UHD inner tubes when i take the XR out on the trails with knobbies but most of the time the bike has road rubber with standard tubes, I have never tried or had to try to patch a UHD tube, is it possible? It got me thinking, which is the best tube type to run when dual sport riding and what type of 21" tube should I use as the on-board spare in case of a puncture?
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