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Old 01-14-2013, 03:06 PM   #16
kellymac530
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Quick question here:

You say you mounted new tires, was it doing before the tires? Or did it start when you put on the new tires?

Did it start just one day? Or, Develop over time?

Mine feels that way sometimes, usually it is I forgot and put too much in the right side case, but you are doing it without the cases....have you tried loading the left case and minimal or empty right case to see if that changes it?

My right system case lock is broken so it opens quickly and easily, I tend to stuff every thing it that side just because and the PTTR get way bad.
I ride with a couple spare bottles of water in the left case just to help.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:52 PM   #17
FourG OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellymac530 View Post
Quick question here:

You say you mounted new tires, was it doing before the tires? Or did it start when you put on the new tires?

Did it start just one day? Or, Develop over time?

Mine feels that way sometimes, usually it is I forgot and put too much in the right side case, but you are doing it without the cases....have you tried loading the left case and minimal or empty right case to see if that changes it?

My right system case lock is broken so it opens quickly and easily, I tend to stuff every thing it that side just because and the PTTR get way bad.
I ride with a couple spare bottles of water in the left case just to help.
I've noticed the issue within the last week. I mounted the new tires about 2 weeks ago, so it is possible that I didn't notice it for a week and that it could have aligned with mounting the new rubber.

It was also the first time I had ever taken the wheels off the bike since owning it.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:00 PM   #18
def
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My 2001 BMW GS REProm shows a fixture for measuring the wheel track offset of the GS. The fixture quoted is BMW No. 36 3 920, Track Offset Guage. This would tell you if you have something bent.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:28 PM   #19
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My 2001 BMW GS REProm shows a fixture for measuring the wheel track offset of the GS. The fixture quoted is BMW No. 36 3 920, Track Offset Guage. This would tell you if you have something bent.
Not sure I follow. Is this something the dealer would have?
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:15 PM   #20
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Get a couple 8" flourecent bulbs and a buddy

Lay the down each side of the rear tire and see how they lay to the front wheel when the bars are straight
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:06 PM   #21
ElMartillo
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Fork Twist, etc...

I resolved a similar issue on my Y2K 1150GS. Though the bike would track straight, it seemed the handlebars were pointed slightly left while riding in a straight line.

Thinking that by re-torquing the axle while the fork bracket bolts are loose, it might help re-align things if they are out.

I loosened the pinch bolts on the fork bracket (#10), the pinch bolts and the axle. Retightened in this order:

1) Axle.
2) Axle pinch bolt right side.
3) Axle pinch bolt left side.
4) Fork bracket pinch bolts, being careful to tighten top and bottom on same leg evenly.

When I got to the fork bracket, I noticed the left leg was lower in the bracket than the right. The difference was minimal, but I could tell by making a visual comparison in the machining in the leg above the fork bracket (circled in red in diagram). To remedy, before tightening the left leg I loosened the axle and pinch bolt left side, tapped the bottom of the fork leg with a plastic mallet until the two fork legs seemed even, then tightened up everything starting with the axle.

Not sure if I had a twisted leg, or if the problem was a lower left fork leg or combination of both, but the procedure remedied my situation.

I hope this helps.

Cheers!

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Old 01-14-2013, 10:24 PM   #22
scooteraug02
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My 03 1150GSA was missing number 3 and there was a bulletin to add it.

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Old 01-14-2013, 10:32 PM   #23
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My 03 1150GSA was missing number 3 and there was a bulletin to add it.

That was for later models I believe. My 2000 model does not have or require one.
Was that spacer not required for brake calliper clearance?
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:58 PM   #24
JRP
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Originally Posted by FourG View Post
Also, does anyone know any tricks to checking that your bars are completely straight? I'm assuming the only way is to measure with a micrometer from the bar clamps to the frame?


If you lay a piece of glass on the fork tubes it will indicate if your
forks are twisted in the triple clamps or not.
The top clamp should line up with the bottom and if so the glass will lay flat and not rock. It is easy enough to fix if they are out of alignment, assuming again that they are not bent.
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:25 AM   #25
Rockmuncher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FourG View Post
So your windshield was cocked enough to give you the illusion it was leaning? I've suspected a placebo effect like this... I think I might buy a cheap bubble level and attach it to the console to see what physics reports..

No placebo effect will make the bike turn. If the windshield is not straight, the wind will push harder to one side. Maybe it's only an issue with Tobinators installed.
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:41 AM   #26
bemiiten
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Heavy crankshaft spinning along the bikes axis causes a torque effect. They all do it.
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Old 01-15-2013, 05:11 AM   #27
manfromthestix
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It was also the first time I had ever taken the wheels off the bike since owning it.

Maybe you put it back together a bit wrong or twisted? Try taking it apart again, clean any dirt/grime from the wheels, speedo gear, check all is correct and re-install.

I've got a 2001 1150GS that tracks straight and true no matter how off-balance the side cases are. Most of the time my save-yer-own-ass tool kit (tire irons, repair stuff, pump, etc.), first aid kit, 1/2 cover, ROK straps, and assorted other crap are crammed into my left side case and the right will have a bottle of water and a jacket liner = very unbalanced with no noticeable drift or lean. I do notice, however, that it falls into corners differently when one side case is significantly heavier than the other. I have never experienced the PTTR (pull to the right) phenomenon common on older RTs.

Speaking of older RTs, I had a 1997 1100RT that really did PTTR regardless what I did to it, and it was significantly more obvious if the bags were unbalanced. The previous owner of that bike had boinked into a curb pretty hard, so the front end was tweaked. I had a BMW shop go through it and they found that the ball joint on the telelever (#10 in the drawings above) had been knocked hard enough to make it very slightly bent, so I replaced that and it REALLY helped. They disassembled the forks and found one was very slightly bent (replaced slider), checked the clamps, axle, ABS ring, all OK, front wheel (slightly bent and replaced), and put it all back to spec. The PTTR thing was still there but it was very mild, could be overcome by adding a little weight to the left side of the bike (like a couple pounds of stuff in the little glove box in the fairing). If I remember correctly, most people thought the RT's PTTR issue was because the rear wheel tracked slightly differently from the front (both were running straight down the road, just on slightly separated parallel lines) and an aftermarket shim would have aligned it better, but it was never noticeable enough with proper loading that I felt it was necessary. After getting the front end repaired I just rode it 50,000 happy miles before selling it. My GS has never had that issue.

I say take the wheels back off, look everything over carefully, compare to pictures in a good shop manual, clean everything real good, put it back together again and see if that helps. I did a tire change and balance thread for the GS a few years ago, maybe this will help:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148614

Doug
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:55 AM   #28
roger 04 rt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FourG View Post
Alright keyboard mechanics, I've got one for you.

Recently my 2000 1150 GS seems to have decided it doesn't want to ride on the straight and narrow any longer.

Symptoms:
  • Since I've owned the bike it's always wanted to stray right when I let off the bars... It was never an issue per say as I felt the bike had tracked straight with my hands on the bars.
  • (Recently) when riding the bike in a straight line on the highway I'm noticing I need to give it a little left bar input which makes the bike lean slightly to the left when trying to go straight.

Things I've tried (admittedly not a lot, yet)
  • I've eliminated the "crown in the road" theory by briefly riding on the opposite side with the same effect
  • Checked the haynes manual for any kind of alignment procedure. What they listed didn't seem too scientific so I haven't really tried it.
  • Loosened the fork clamps and tried to let it naturally find it's resting place, torqued them back up to spec
  • Checked the final drive for play
  • Checked tire pressure
  • Check the front tire for play
  • Checked if the spoked wheels are true
  • Visually inspected both wheels for any camber issues
  • Tried riding without the system cases

Other things to note:
  • Two brand new tourances mounted and balanced by me
  • I ride with the system cases almost 100% of the time, although I've tried riding without them and I have the same issue.

What should be my next steps? Anyone else ever encounter this issue?
Sorry that I just saw this. I participated in a long thread on the topic of BMW motorcyle pull, specifically the R1100 and R1150. It's a long thread, which you can read through, here, about the middle of the thread.

The bottom line is that weight imbalance. even as little as 10-12 lbs. can cause a pull, either to the right or left. Rear wheel offset of 3-5 mm can also cause a similar pull. Is there any side to side fuel imbalance in the 1150GS? There is about 15 lbs. fuel imbalance in the RT.

On my RT I ended up putting 12 lbs. of lead in the left hand "glove box" where a radio can be mounted. I can now ride hands free.

RB

roger 04 rt screwed with this post 01-15-2013 at 07:01 AM
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:47 PM   #29
def
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Originally Posted by FourG View Post
Not sure I follow. Is this something the dealer would have?
Yes however, this gauge looks costly. I would speculate that few BMW dealers would invest in what appears to be an expensive tool that would be used infrequently, instead relying on less sophisticated techniques for measuring GS wheel track offset.

I would call a couple of close dealers and inquire.

The math for determining wheel track offset (S) is as follows:

S=A+Fh/2 - B+Fv/2

Permissible wheel track offset (S): 9 mm (0.35 in): datum is + 4.5 mm (0.18 in)


Excerpted from BMW REProm.
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:34 AM   #30
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So I've taken both wheels off again and tried to straighten the front forks, all with no luck.

While I was toying with the rear wheel I noticed it has a tiny bit of play. I'm wondering if this is causing the issue I'm feeling.

I also, somewhat unscientifically, tried to figure out the direction of the rear wheel with string. It seems the wheel is pointing slightly to the right side of the bike.

Paralever bearings?
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