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Old 01-16-2013, 02:45 PM   #31
mcma111
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Have you even checked if you have spark? If you have spark it might not be the stator but ya never know.
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Old 01-16-2013, 02:48 PM   #32
cavalier35 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
Have you even checked if you have spark? If you have spark it might not be the stator but ya never know.
When it failed on the sand, I put a spare plug in the wire and gave it a few kicks to see if we could see it spark, which it didn't. I was going to test the stator resistance but was waiting to buy or barrow a volt meter. I had a hunch it was the stator, so I thought I would give them a call.
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:37 PM   #33
elsalvadorklr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavalier35 View Post
I called Ricky Stator and described how my bike suddenly stopped running after about 4-5 hours of riding. It turns out a bad batch of stators went out with the wrong gauge wire and mine was one of those. I'm going to send it back tomorrow and will update if the bike wants to fire.
come again? I noticed my new ricky stator has thinner gauge wire...whereas the old ricky that failed had thicker wire

wtf? got pics? Im gonna be pissed if my stator fails AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the thinner gauge wire is at the connectors to the harness etc...not the actual windings...just to clarify
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:40 PM   #34
cavalier35 OP
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Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
come again? I noticed my new ricky stator has thinner gauge wire...whereas the old ricky that failed had thicker wire

wtf? got pics? Im gonna be pissed if my stator fails AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'll take a couple pictures tonight. The guy I talked with said there was a batch of 50 that were bad. I ordered mine on May 14th, 2012. When did you order yours?
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:17 PM   #35
elsalvadorklr
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like 3 months ago? 50 I guess Im ok? but I definitely have thinner gauge wires for the harness connection and lightting wires

anywhoo

I did notice the coils and copper wire were epoxied whereas before they were just wrapped

anywhoo hijack over
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:17 PM   #36
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Here are some pictures from my stator removal.













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Old 01-17-2013, 01:27 AM   #37
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It takes only a small amount of sand ingested into the engine to do major damage. The sand will quickly destroy the piston, rings, cylinder wall, find its' way into the bottom end into the oil and be carried throughout the engine doing major damage. Only way to assess the full damage is a complete teardown.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:01 AM   #38
elsalvadorklr
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cavalier have pics of the actual harness wire connectors? that ricky looks similar to my burned one, its the exciter coils that overheat, the two poles that are wrapped...

nice bike btw

wish you luck
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:11 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
cavalier have pics of the actual harness wire connectors? that ricky looks similar to my burned one, its the exciter coils that overheat, the two poles that are wrapped...

nice bike btw

wish you luck
Here's a pic of the connectors. Are you saying the new stators from RS will have a different looking connectors? Thank you.

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Old 01-17-2013, 10:16 AM   #40
elsalvadorklr
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damnit those wires look just like mine, the actual wires is what Im talking about...they are were thinner gauge than my original rikcy stator...however I dont know if thats what ricky stator is talking about...

maybe its the insulation thats thinner dunno...

man...does he know when this batch ended DATE WISE

lastly show us a pic of your filter...

what you need to do is clean it and filter out the dirt and sand...

I have a pic if how much a well oiled filter can take abuse wise...

if its less than my pic(i have great compression) then maybe its simply that you burned up your stator from the heat...

you will never know until you do a compression check and get the elctricals working again

do a voltmeter test on the stator if you can...you need to see 45volts ac plus to get spark...

resistance should be around 90-150ohms or so on the rikcys...
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:21 AM   #41
elsalvadorklr
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here is the pic, if you have less sand than this hold off on the engine teardown..do the compression check first!



this was a well oiled well sealed with grease filter...not only that but all the airbox was greased as was the rubber lips on the seat and intake...this saved me...it was a long beach run that did this...

its just showing how much a well oil filter can take...

I know it worked because I later tore down my engine to fix a base gasket leak, and the piston, rings and cylinder were perfect, in fact I reused them since they had low miles on them...
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:30 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
damnit those wires look just like mine, the actual wires is what Im talking about...they are were thinner gauge than my original rikcy stator...however I dont know if thats what ricky stator is talking about...

maybe its the insulation thats thinner dunno...

man...does he know when this batch ended DATE WISE

lastly show us a pic of your filter...

what you need to do is clean it and filter out the dirt and sand...

I have a pic if how much a well oiled filter can take abuse wise...

if its less than my pic(i have great compression) then maybe its simply that you burned up your stator from the heat...

you will never know until you do a compression check and get the elctricals working again

do a voltmeter test on the stator if you can...you need to see 45volts ac plus to get spark...

resistance should be around 90-150ohms or so on the rikcys...
I didn't think to ask about the date (sorry). I have the stator in my car and plan to mail it out at lunch. My brother-in-law was going to bring over his voltmeter last night to get a reading, but something came up.


Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
here is the pic, if you have less sand than this hold off on the engine teardown..do the compression check first!



this was a well oiled well sealed with grease filter...not only that but all the airbox was greased as was the rubber lips on the seat and intake...this saved me...it was a long beach run that did this...

its just showing how much a well oil filter can take...

I know it worked because I later tore down my engine to fix a base gasket leak, and the piston, rings and cylinder were perfect, in fact I reused them since they had low miles on them...
In an ideal world, the bike failed because the stator overheated and not due to sand. I'll have to take a picture of the filter later this weekend and report back how much crud it collected.

What is considered good compression for this bike? Maybe a range? I'm guessing it's on the lower end just because it's all original. Also, if the valve clearances are still in spec, would that be an indication the internals were not damaged by sand? Keep in mind, the bike failed after riding for about five hours and the last hour is when it probably got the hottest.

Thank you.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:52 AM   #43
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:22 AM   #44
elsalvadorklr
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here is what I would do:

get spark first and forget everything else

clean and filter the air filter and see what you have...look at the intake and airbox boot...

start engine after doing an oil change...if it starts do a second compression test...

I think it should be around 150psi...the autodecomp plays tricks too

since you say you got hot but dont actually have a temperature gauge to go by you cant really say if you just burned up the stator or combination of somthing else...

who knows
what I do know is that the oem nicasil cylinder on oem bikes can take more abuse and run COOLER than other model bikes...so you do have that to your advantage

lastly ne thing at a time...

good luck

If you do have spark but cant start the engine, then its teardown time...at the least lap the valves, new stem seals and new oem rings for your 89 bike...at the least

this depending on what your piston and cylinder looks like

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Old 01-17-2013, 11:37 AM   #45
cavalier35 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
here is what I would do:

get spark first and forget everything else

clean and filter the air filter and see what you have...look at the intake and airbox boot...

start engine after doing an oil change...if it starts do a second compression test...

I think it should be around 150psi...the autodecomp plays tricks too

since you say you got hot but dont actually have a temperature gauge to go by you cant really say if you just burned up the stator or combination of somthing else...

who knows
what I do know is that the oem nicasil cylinder on oem bikes can take more abuse and run COOLER than other model bikes...so you do have that to your advantage

lastly ne thing at a time...

good luck

If you do have spark but cant start the engine, then its teardown time...at the least lap the valves, new stem seals and new oem rings for your 89 bike...at the least

this depending on what your piston and cylinder looks like

Sounds good to me. I like the idea of at least getting a spark going before doing anything else. One last question though...should a compression test be done hot or cold? Or does it matter?
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