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Old 01-17-2013, 01:55 PM   #46
elsalvadorklr
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do it cold, see what you get...then if its low pour some drops of oil on the piston, if it gets better that means your tolerances are too big...the oil seals up the cracks if you will...

cheers
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:38 PM   #47
cavalier35 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
do it cold, see what you get...then if its low pour some drops of oil on the piston, if it gets better that means your tolerances are too big...the oil seals up the cracks if you will...

cheers
Sounds good. Much appreciated.
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:03 PM   #48
mcma111
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If by adding some oil when doing the compression teat and the readings increase this simply shows that the rings are shot. Doesn't tell you the condition of the valves.
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:06 PM   #49
elsalvadorklr
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word, but its a start...

everyone gets hesitant to open up the engine...I was so many times! jajajaja

since he is hesitant, Im only trying to offer help that doesnt include a complete engine rebuild and can o worms

my first post or whatever said tear it down...since he doesnt have spark, start there...
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Old 01-27-2013, 10:01 PM   #50
cavalier35 OP
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The new stator and gasket arrived Saturday afternoon. I installed everything and the bike wanted to fire on the first or second kick. I still need to do the compression test, but I did check the valves and gaps were still in spec. I'll check them again when I do an oil change in the next couple weeks.





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Old 01-28-2013, 12:50 PM   #51
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Looking for some help clearifying the proper way to do a compression test. I was reading through the manual and it says to have the engine warm. It also gives the range (with decompression) around 71.1 psi plus/minus 14.2.

Can someone offer some advice on what the proper procedure would be?

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Old 01-28-2013, 03:43 PM   #52
elsalvadorklr
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I remember reading that...the decomp thingy takes away a bunch of psi...therfore I remember for my bike for example without the decomp on the cam to be somewhere in the 125psi range...(supposed to be)

do it cold and warm...its just for your better information purposes...do the oil trick too...if youre rings are shot then a simple rering job will get your compression back again!

cheers
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:58 PM   #53
cavalier35 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
I remember reading that...the decomp thingy takes away a bunch of psi...therfore I remember for my bike for example without the decomp on the cam to be somewhere in the 125psi range...(supposed to be)

do it cold and warm...its just for your better information purposes...do the oil trick too...if youre rings are shot then a simple rering job will get your compression back again!

cheers
Did you get the 125psi cold or hot? Thanks
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:06 PM   #54
elsalvadorklr
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cant remember...how about I do one soon and let you know...I have a car mechanic friend with a good gauge...

the reason they say WARM is because the piston expands into the cylinder therefore lessening the chance of blowby...therfore getting a better reading...

here is a comp gauge less test.

can you stand on the kicker? when cycling through when starting for example

most guys with very bad or low comp can kick through like nothing
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:16 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
cant remember...how about I do one soon and let you know...I have a car mechanic friend with a good gauge...

the reason they say WARM is because the piston expands into the cylinder therefore lessening the chance of blowby...therfore getting a better reading...

here is a comp gauge less test.

can you stand on the kicker? when cycling through when starting for example

most guys with very bad or low comp can kick through like nothing
I usually can cycle through with the kicker until it get to TDC and then it locks up when the chamber is pressurized. It's been easier with the weather being so cold though. Once the bike is warm, I can get passed TDC without the manual decompression lever, but it's pretty hard. I'm also 6'1" and weight about 215, so I also have my body weight helping.

I'll try and do the compression test tonight and report back.
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:20 PM   #56
Ben99r1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavalier35 View Post
I usually can cycle through with the kicker until it get to TDC and then it locks up when the chamber is pressurized. It's been easier with the weather being so cold though. Once the bike is warm, I can get passed TDC without the manual decompression lever, but it's pretty hard. I'm also 6'1" and weight about 215, so I also have my body weight helping.

I'll try and do the compression test tonight and report back.
Fingers crossed for you and the ole xr600.
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:23 PM   #57
cavalier35 OP
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Fingers crossed for you and the ole xr600.
Just cruising up and down the street, the bike ran like I remember it. Thanks
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:43 PM   #58
elsalvadorklr
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so you can stand on the kicker at tdc when warm and it will push down? without the decomp lever?

it wont on my bike...so maybe yeah you NEED to do a comp test...

good luck bud
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:20 PM   #59
cavalier35 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
so you can stand on the kicker at tdc when warm and it will push down? without the decomp lever?

it wont on my bike...so maybe yeah you NEED to do a comp test...

good luck bud
Elsalvadorklr,

Do you know what size threads the spark plug is? The compression tester I got from a local auto store only has a 14mm and 18mm option. The fourteen is too big unfortunately.

Once the bike is warmed up and put at TDC, I can stand on the kick starter without pushing it down.

I think the compression is fine, but I do want to test it for peace of mind.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:07 PM   #60
elsalvadorklr
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I do not know that...13?

I misunderstood your last post...I think you are A OK!

let us know bud!

christian
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