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Old 02-18-2013, 05:06 PM   #46
YetiGS
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This thread is relevant to my interests.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:40 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billdonna View Post


Yeah, you are 100% correct. A fan with a cowling snuggled up to the downstream side of the rad has to reduce the airflow to some degree.

The question is how much airflow reduction can the system absorb without comprimising it? I think a hell of a lot. She'll still run half caked with mud ie. 50% blocked. BMW also installs the fan on the police models of the 1200 to cool the pig when there is no flow over the rad.

I think it's fair to say the system will handle the small airflow reduction that occurs while in motion quite easily. It's all about cooling the pig when there is no airflow.
Agreed, IMO the cooler is far oversized. The thermostat regulates the temperature, it would simply open more. In the case of a fan restricting the airflow I wouldn't be surprised if there was littte difference.
A simple test would be to block part of the cooler with a piece of cardboard and watch the RID readout while out on a road test.
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:53 PM   #48
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bump

Still looking for the perfect solution.
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Old 03-19-2013, 03:01 PM   #49
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Still looking for the perfect solution.
Don't stop..........
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:47 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregg Wannabe View Post
Still looking for the perfect solution.
Here you go..
Solve your cooling issues
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:52 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by VEGASGSA View Post
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:11 AM   #52
mwood7800
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Anyone tried mounting a k75/100 fan. eBay for cheap and there small and move a ton of air?
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:59 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LaurelPerryOnLand View Post
The only time that I've been concerned with not getting sufficient cooling is:

CROSSING the INTERNATIONAL BORDER between the US and CANADA...particularly at Blaine, WA (near Seattle).

Coming SOUTHBOUND (into the US)...it is not uncommon to see 2 lanes of traffic with over 200+ cars in each lane waiting to cross through US Customs.

That 45 minute - 1 hour waiting time would put severe heating conditions on a bike "inching" ahead.
(You could turn the bike OFF and push it about 1 mile).


COOL SOLUTION:

Spend $50 (no fans required) and apply for (serious security background check and personal interview required) and get a NEXUS card that get you into a SPECIAL...no wait...LANE.

Buzz right up to the head of the normally EMPTY lane...FLASH your NEXUS CARD...and you're home free***

PS...getting the NEXUS card now automatically enrolls you in the US Customs & Border Protection GLOBAL ENTRY program at International Airports in the US. So...whether you're riding the bike or flying into the US...this is a great deal. No waiting at airports...special lane...you're home free***.

(***You must comply with all the very tight entry/customs restrictions on the use of this card or it can/will be confiscated and you'll never get it back)...per the issuing officer.

If it IS confiscated...you've obviously got some serious 'splaining to do.
Well I think a bike could just note where they would have been in line, mention it to the last car you pull up behind and then ride up to the front, shut off the engine, and wait for your turn.
As to the NEXUS I looked into that and it requires a visit for an interview location which is at least 400 miles or more from here...so I guess you could do it when you cross later in the summer...but it's more complicated than waiting in line :).
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:41 AM   #54
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Oil cooler fan....

Yup, like Yeti said.."this thread is relevant to my interests'

This thread proves that great minds DO think alike. I too have thought about adding a cooling fan to the oil cooler especially after an experience crossing the border between Tijiuana and San Diego on a 110+ deg. day.

On my old RS I'd never, ever seen more than 5, occasionaly 6 bars of oil temp but this day crossing the border slogging along at walking speed the RID oil temp started climbing.

By the time I got to the inspectors station, it was at 7 bars and bar 8 was flickering plus there was a slight hot oil smell that I've never had before. Once moving again it came back down to normal.

Thought everything was fine till the following weekend. Started bike, closed garage, revved it a little and started to take off. I did notice a slightly different tone to the engine. Looked around, down but saw nothing unususal but wearing ear plugs masked the odd sound.

Pulled away into traffic accelrating, shifted into 2nd gear and my foot literally slid off the footpeg. WTF???

Pulled over to find my left boot, pant leg, footpeg, swing arm and rear tire soaked in oil and a big gaping hole where the oil inspection window is supposed to be. WTFx2!!! Damned thing blew out who knows where??

Slowly circled back home where I found a 2 1/2Ft. wide swath of oil running down my drive, down my street and out into the main drag!!! And there on the drive where the bike sat before leaving was the oil window!!!!

I attribute this to the 'hot running' condition the previous weekend. A 14 yr. old 1100 RS who's rubber seals had probably hardened over the years had probably lost some of it's grip with the extreme thermal expansion of the hot running thing. Makes sense, right??

That's what got me thinking about adding a fan, just something to keep air moving when the bike is NOT. Losing tha oil window on a long distance ride miles from home could be a disaster. The fan works for the cop bikes so why not. But the Authority fan set up will not fit the RS and it is PRICEY!!!

Yep, I found an nice 4" square 12 volt computer boxer fan but.....

Have not installed it because of one concern on the RT. These are an inexpensive little Universal type DC motor. Current inducted will run the fan. Polarity hook up determines the direction of rotation.

But, if not turned on, airflow thru the fan will rotate turning the little motor into a miniaturized DC generator creating a small reverse current. The only way I know to prevent this is a series wired diode but what value is only a guess?? The OEM would have to have something like this in it's wiring but I can find it on the micro fiche or wiring diagrams.

Anyone care to hazard a guess what that value might be???? Wired into the 'hot' positive side only or both sides??

BTW...stumbled across this on the BMWOA site one day. Have you EVER wondered what your boxer might sound like with the oil inspection window missing??? Remove the oil filler cap on the left valve cover and take a listen, commit that sound to your mental sound track. Yep, it sounds exactly the same!! Word to the wise....

Tin Bender screwed with this post 03-23-2013 at 10:48 AM
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Old 03-23-2013, 11:00 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Bender View Post
Yep, I found an nice 4" square 12 volt computer boxer fan but.....

Have not installed it because of one concern on the RT. These are an inexpensive little Universal type DC motor. Current inducted will run the fan. Polarity hook up determines the direction of rotation.

But, if not turned on, airflow thru the fan will rotate turning the little motor into a miniaturized DC generator creating a small reverse current. The only way I know to prevent this is a series wired diode but what value is only a guess?? The OEM would have to have something like this in it's wiring but I can find it on the micro fiche or wiring diagrams.

Anyone care to hazard a guess what that value might be???? Wired into the 'hot' positive side only or both sides??
Someone made a post about having the motronic control the fan. If that is possible, you could have the motronic power a relay that turns the fan on and off. That way the fan is not putting power back into the system. Or, simply add a switch to a relay that powers the fan. You turn it on and off when you want. When it is off, it is not hooked to any positive power, just grounded with the positive lead ending at the relay.
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Old 03-23-2013, 11:08 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravenslair View Post
Someone made a post about having the motronic control the fan. If that is possible, you could have the motronic power a relay that turns the fan on and off. That way the fan is not putting power back into the system. Or, simply add a switch to a relay that powers the fan. You turn it on and off when you want. When it is off, it is not hooked to any positive power, just grounded with the positive lead ending at the relay.
I did. pin 17 sinks a relay to ground.
The contacts switch the fan
That's how it's done on the 1150RTP's

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Old 03-23-2013, 12:28 PM   #57
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Ravenslair,

YOU are absolutely right. Switched off, relay contacts open any generated voltage goes harmlessly to ground. I shoulda' thought of that. And...this keeps with the KISS principle.

I think just for grins I'm gonna use compressed air blowing through the fan and see what kind of voltage it creates. Might be interesting??

The reason I bring this up is on a BMW 325 I owned a while back I started seeing an electical arc behind the A/C switch whenever I turned the A/C on!!! Now, that's wierd, have never seen that before with any other car.

Did a little online research, scoured the wiring diagram and found inline with the A/C compressor wiring a small diode buried under the vinyl sheathing intended to prevent the back voltage when the magnetic clutch was engaged which turned the clutch mechanism into a DC generator. The replacement wiring for the compressor cable was oodles $$, but I found a member of one of the Bimmer forums had determined the diode value. A quick run to Radio Shack, a few minutes with an Exacto knife and soldering iron, problem fixed. Bada-bing!!
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Old 03-23-2013, 01:13 PM   #58
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The couple times a yr you need a fan just turn the damn thing on. Kiss
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:47 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by Tin Bender View Post
Ravenslair,

YOU are absolutely right. Switched off, relay contacts open any generated voltage goes harmlessly to ground. I shoulda' thought of that. And...this keeps with the KISS principle.

!
The generated voltage doesn't go anywhere. It just builds up a voltage at the open relay terminal. Apparently the voltage doesn's get high enough to arc over the relay contacts.
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Old 03-24-2013, 02:47 AM   #60
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Looking at this myself - getting lots of roadworks here in the home town (Christchurch NZ; post earthquake, they're replacing 2ft sewers almost everywhere) and the 1100 is getting hot under the collar.

Would suggest as a possible fix using multiple smaller computer fans:
- they go down to 40mm square
- yes, the airflow drops, but you can fit more side to side and each one draws more air across the oil as it moves from one side of the cooler to the other, so the airflow "adds up"
- most computer fans can be run at down to about 5v to slow them down so they don't give the "jet engine" noise; may look at a plain 7808 regulator (read simple) to allow them to be unobtrusive... think like the 1/2 speed setting some car radiator fans have when the AC kicks in.

I've got some spares, I think 50mm... will dig them out & have a play this Easter holiday weekend (got to get in there to replace the horn anyway), I'll try to remember to get some pics too. Will also look out the preset thermoswitch I got for the same excercise on my old K1100RS, could probably just cable-tie that to the cooler feed pipe with some heatsink grease and not have to bother with switches. Will probably pull the fans apart before fitting too & use some of that silicone oil on the bearings, they're not meant for all-weather use :)
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