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Old 03-24-2013, 09:13 AM   #61
Zoef zoef
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@maxfnz: possibly have two fans in series (each one will have 6V)?
If you want, you can have a switch to set them in parallel if you want to have the full capacity of the fan.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:56 AM   #62
Gregg Wannabe
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I see. I'd be interested to hear how well the fans did in front of the cooler.

I'm going with this idea, and I actually like the look. I will try and fab this up for my '08 GSA as soon as I get the time. My plan is a single computer fan mounted to the front of a oil cooler guard. I will mount it in the center so air can still flow around the sides and may even open up the guard directly behind the area that the fan covers to increase airflow since the fan will protect the fins from rocks. I plan to run power from a switched power source and then use a simple on/off switch.

I don't need the fan often but when I do, I really do.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:17 PM   #63
Ravenslair
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Originally Posted by Gregg Wannabe View Post
I'm going with this idea, and I actually like the look. I will try and fab this up for my '08 GSA as soon as I get the time. My plan is a single computer fan mounted to the front of a oil cooler guard. I will mount it in the center so air can still flow around the sides and may even open up the guard directly behind the area that the fan covers to increase airflow since the fan will protect the fins from rocks. I plan to run power from a switched power source and then use a simple on/off switch.

I don't need the fan often but when I do, I really do.
I pulled a few case fans from some old PC's. They are Foxconn DC12V 0.40A fans. They have four wires going into them. A black (ground), yellow (12v), green (3.349v) and blue (3.323v). Measured voltages were on the motherboard. I wired two fans together as noted on the bike above . I used the yellow and black wires only. The blue and green were cut off and not used. I wired it to a fused circuit and the fans ran great. Since there was no shroud, a lot of air blows out the sides. I did feel some air coming through the backside. I think with a shroud this would work great. I am going to try to fab up a shroud this weekend and try it out when commuting next week. I am going to run it in the afternoon when things are a bit warmer than 0600. When I did run it from one of the heated circuits from the Dispatch 1, it pulsed if it was not on full. I am sure there is a way to wire it up to keep it from pulsing but that is beyond me at this time. Not sure I would want to run it at anything other than full anyway.
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:22 PM   #64
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I did. pin 17 sinks a relay to ground.
The contacts switch the fan
That's how it's done on the 1150RTP's


UPDATE:

Decided to test this circuit on my '00 R1150GS. I got it from the BMW Police Service site.
I wired in pin 17 to the motronic Ma2.4 and put an instrument lamp in the circuit to annunciate the sink to ground.
I knew I had the right pin because I could "see" P/n junction to ground with my DVM

I mounted a thermocouple right on the steel pipe right above the thermostat.
This is what I found:

0-4 Bars climbs to 170F
5 Bars: 172-191F No Light
6 Bars: 192-208F No Light
7 Bars: 209-223F No Light
8 Bars: 224-240F No Light
9 Bars: 242-252F No Light
10 Bars: No light - shut the bike down - was hot.

I did some reading last nite and saw a couple of comments re: 1150RTP Fans coming on VERY rarely and the engines were smoking hot.

Conclusion: I would not recommend this switching method except for a last ditch safety. I do believe I would have gotten a light eventually but did not want to get my engine that hot.
IMO, one would be far better off switching the fan on manually or using an aftermarket adjustable thermostat and setting it to come at lets say 7 bars and shut off at 6 bars
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Old 03-30-2013, 01:26 PM   #65
Ravenslair
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GS Addict, thanks for doing that extensive test! Great information to know.

My concern is afternoon riding when things are hotter. I am planning to turn the fan on when I head home and let em run until I turn the bike off. I will keep you guys posted on my results. I usually run around 6 bars in the afternoon if I am moving and steadily higher if traffic sucks. Maybe I will wait until rush hour just to test that.... or maybe not. I will keep you posted.
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Old 04-01-2013, 02:07 AM   #66
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Going to try these 4 x Delta FFB0412VHN (40x40x28mm, 15.79 CFM @ 9500 RPM, 41.9 dBA, 1.92 watts, .16 amps, 12v DC) I had recovered from some dead hardware... the mounting will be to the back of the cooler, the brass rod used to frame them to either side of the headlight frame dropper in the center of the cooler; will pad out the faces slightly so they don't rub the cooler fins, the fan hubs themselves are slightly set back so they're not total "dead spots" for cooling if the fans aren't running.

The metal faces are already coated in silcone oil, and these motors are OK for seizing if it ever got that bad - they just cut themselves out. Only real concern is the noise - they do sound like little jet fans (not surprising at 9500 RPM!) but will probably use a 7808 three-terminal regulator to drop them to 8v (and at only 0.8A total that's only about 4-6w of heat from that so no fancy heatlink needed). Could also just run some fancy wiring for selecting 1-4 fans going, but initially it'll be KISS.

Will post back some more info when on & running; should be interesting to see what a difference 60CFM does to the RID bars! Will depend on the %age cooling the R259 engines get from the oil as to how effective it is overall, I guess

Also, before I forget: lots of other 40x40mm units out there, 10mm, 200mm thick & various CFMs - they do look a nice fit and might be easier than these 28mm ones, I'm only using them as I have 8 to spare. Might pay to check them out before other inmates go for the 80mm units.

Ride safe

Max



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Old 04-01-2013, 05:59 AM   #67
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Haven't had too much time to mess with it, but did take a trip to Florida a few weeks ago and got to try it out. I pretty much just flipped the switch whenever it hit 6 bars. Never got above 6 bars, but never dropped to 5 either. The thing is super loud, but works. Next step will be coming up with a little bit of flexible shrouding to help the air flow.
Did ride back through about 8 hours of cold downpours. Fan still works after, so i guess it is waterproof enough...
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:16 PM   #68
Ravenslair
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I pulled a few old server cooling fans that are each rated at 77 cfm (ebmpapst 3212 J/2N - 12V, 630mA, 7.6W) . I connected two and shaped the bottom just a bit to see how they fit. A little big, but doable. They run about 75db. I would likely run them all the time during the spring and summer. I have a few buddies with 3D printers. I am going to see if they can fabricate some sort of housing for them that acts as a scoop and minimizes the amount of air that bleeds around the sides. Even with all the gaps, I can feel a fair amount of wind on the backside of the oil cooler.



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Old 04-27-2013, 07:48 PM   #69
LaurelPerryOnLand
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Originally Posted by Ravenslair View Post
I pulled a few old server cooling fans that are each rated at 77 cfm (ebmpapst 3212 J/2N - 12V, 630mA, 7.6W) . I connected two and shaped the bottom just a bit to see how they fit. A little big, but doable. They run about 75db. I would likely run them all the time during the spring and summer. I have a few buddies with 3D printers. I am going to see if they can fabricate some sort of housing for them that acts as a scoop and minimizes the amount of air that bleeds around the sides. Even with all the gaps, I can feel a fair amount of wind on the backside of the oil cooler.



Slap a couple of those BMW roundels on those fans and SELL them for about $400 each!
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:17 AM   #70
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Got my 4 little whiners in today... 15mins idling with the RID already at 5 bars - went up to 6

Air coming out the back - getting uncomfortably hot within closer than about 2 inches. Had bars right over to the left (give the poor front mudguard as much clearance to the right header as possible) and the right fork leg (thus the closest to the fan backwash) was getting toasty warm.

Before anyone asks - outside temp around 20c, so not really getting much bonus from a low ambient temp either.

Basic pics follow (remember this is for an 1100GS and if you can't follow/adapt then maybe you shouldn't be risking it)

- all 4 motors wired in paralell (obviously +ves together, etc - reverse polarity shouldn't blow these but the smarts in each fan won't work backwards either!)

- all 4 cable-tied ON THE BACKS OF THE FANS to 2 5/32 brass rod. Top 220mm, bottom enough to stretch side-to-side across the mounting lugs of the oil cooler (see pics).

- fans 1&2 and 3&4 cable-tied to each other AT THE FRONT to make two pairs of two. The gap inbetween left at about 15mm to accomodate the upturned center subframe support

- 2 layers of 10mm draught-stop foam tape stuck back-to-back between the rods in the center gap so the whole assembly "stands back" on the center subframe support and can't rub up against the back of the oil cooler (fans are slightly recessed so they shouldn't ever get to touching, but hey, it's soft alu)

- rubber breather hose over the ends of the rods as they bear up against the mounts etc to stop vibration. Both rods start pushed far left (slides in the cable ties) and then the bottom one gets centered. Top one ends up hooked over the oil feed pipe on the left. Bottoms cable-tied to the oil cooler mounting spring-nuts.

- ended up with the whole thing able to pivot forward slightly on the bottom rod, so added two blocks of draught excluder on the bottom front edge to counter this and avoid any contact of the top front edge with the back of the cooler. Shouldn't happen anyway, these don't have much mass, but better safe than a leak later.

- wiring: off the sidelight. I know I'm lazy but it's fused sensibly (4A), accessible, and on my lights-on bike always there. Negatives direct to the brown wire, positives to a switch and then to the grey wire.

Bottom rod mounting (other side symmetrical)



Center foam:



(holes are from me exposing the bearings and adding a couple of drops of silicone oil - never hurts to waterproof a bit!)

more side views:



(little blue wires are the tachometer feedbacks for when the fans are in computers - I've just cut them off down to stubs, as long as they can't short out.)

bottom edge with extra foam packers to stop any extra tilt forward:



HTH

Max
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:26 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by Zoef zoef View Post
@maxfnz: possibly have two fans in series (each one will have 6V)?
If you want, you can have a switch to set them in parallel if you want to have the full capacity of the fan.
Had a play with reduced voltage too, before putting in (as above) - v.slow at about 7v; I've used 8v regulators before to quiet bigger fans but these little 40mm ones don't really have much of a flywheel effect so I think they're more likley to stall at that low a voltage. Might work (usually running alternator voltage reads 14v on mine, so 2 pairs of two would see 7v each) but if I get too fed up I'll probably throw an Arduino at it
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Old 04-28-2013, 05:42 AM   #72
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+1 on the Arduino. Might make the whole thing easier in the end.
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:12 AM   #73
cjack
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Cooling the oil is only part of it. The headers get almost transparent red when no air is flowing across them...wonder how that works for the headers in the four cyl water cooled engines.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:12 AM   #74
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Top of the cylinders have little pools on them.

I suppose one could pour some water in to those while in traffic. Would that create too much thermal stress?
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:19 AM   #75
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I installed a Euro version Akrapovic exhaust with no cat, free flow air filter and had it dyno tuned to richen the fuel air ratio and it runs two bars cooler at all times.
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