A pillions View of the World.

[Dazzer]

Hi

I'm Leigh partner of Dazzer some of you may have meet him on ride outs in the UK and Europe.

I had never been on a motorbike untill I met Dazzer which was back in January 2002. Back then the thought of camping would have never crossed my mind. Who would have guessed that 10 years later we would be selling our House and setting off on a Trip of a life time . The events of the last 11 months have been amazing covering over 40,000 miles and we still have a long way to go .I'm going to try to share our trip with you and hope you enjoy it.

The date was set to leave the UK on May the 7th 2012. The day arrived in a flash. You take months planning and then still with Hour's before we leave we were still getting the last few things togeather..

It was a Bank Holiday Monday and we had a few friends meet us for breakfast. Setting off on the ride to Hull where we were to catch the ferry to Belgium .
Swidders and Val and Basil and Hazel / Dazco / Craig / Yatty / Debz / Fritz and Bev lead us along the back roads to wetwang where we all stopped for Fish and Chips. Saying Farewell to friends is never easy ,worse still when your going away for so long. Watching everyone ride off was emotional

Craig stayed with us and continued to the Port. The ferry to Belgium is a over nigh sailing so we found our cabin and then headed to the bar.

I made the most of the 3 course meal on the ferry












Arriving in Belgium at 9am we headed down to Germany and on into Austria our plan was to move through Europe in only a few weeks. we have ridden here many time and its expensive so we hoped to slow things down from Bulgaria onwards

Sorry more food photos . were making the best of it before things get different


Breakfast in Austria. I think the photos of the food will become less in size and more interesting as we travel on.




So many stunning views in Austria and we were lucky this time to have good weather.
unlike the rain and snow we had there in 2008.










The roads in the north of Italy are perfect for riding with beautiful views

Stunning Northern Italy





wild camping in Italy and our Breakfast ...Sack the chef :lol: .

Bring Back P and O ferry food I say ;)








Well our first 5 days riding we have had excellent weather through Belgium Germany Austria Italy and Slovenia .Things were to Change for the worse late Saturday night while at a camp site outside Rijeka in Croatia.
Unknowing to us there was a very bad storm heading our way which would cause gale force winds along the coast line.



Our camp site in Croatia. The calm before the storm :




We had a very heavy thunder storm that then turned into the strongest winds I have ever known. at 5am Sunday morning I awoke to the tent being riped apart it was unbelievable .. leigh and I trying to get out of our sleeping bags while holding on to everything to stop it blowing into the sea.

we stuffed everything into the large holdall and headed fo cover under the beach bar. The tents alloy poles were bent and the side of the tent had ripped open. By daylight we could see just how bad the damage was to the rest of the campsite. most of the awnings on the caravans had been damaged and a number of trees were down.

We were lucky in that a couple from Slovenia came to see how we were and then took us to a hotel near by . Leigh went in their car with all our kit and I rode the bike there. It was only 2km down the road but was hard with the very strong winds.

Now were drying out our kit and hoping the wind will have dropped by Monday morning so we can head down the coast towards Dubrovnik.









After two day's stuck in the Hotel in Rijeka due to the roads being closed Ddue to the very high winds , we managed to break free at 430 am and ride around the closed road signs.

The coast road down Croatia was stunning , This most certainly is a must ride road.
Now were heading to a Hostal called Boat Boots Bikes in Vitina in Bosnia run by Nick and Ivanka.




When we arrive it turned out that we were the first guests as they had only posted the Hostal on the internent the day before. So while Darren and Nick were talking bikes , Ivanka and I nipped out to re stock with Wine and food for our evening meal. Thanks to Sam Manicom for telling us about this great Biker's Hostel .





Heading south we stop at Mostar , famous for the Mostar bridge which was sadly blown up in the war on the 1990's





Old style farming on the outskirts of Sarajevo




A sad reminder of the war of the 1990's



Passing through Sarajevo there was still quite a bit of snow on the ground for the past weeks storms. were making our way to Doug's place Moto camp Bulgaria .Its raing heavy and as been for the last 12 hour's .were about a hour ride form Doug's place and the rain is lashing down and its getting dark. Do we find somewhere now or ride on . Dazzer does not like riding in the dark, but we decided to ride on slow. there is little traffic on the roads and soon were pulling into the Village. It was a great relief to see a friend of our's ( Iain and Debz left the same day as us to ride there BMW outfit around the world )

Iain opened the gates and with in a second we were sat next to the fire with a hot drink.

We stayed here a few days to rest and do a few tweeks to the bike. Another English chap Will was also staying there he had arrived a few days before us and was going to follow us all to Turkey where we were to stay at the Istanbul bikers club.
Moto Camp Bulgaria




Polly and Evo made us very welcome and looked after us very well. we have a invite to visit them in Florida later in the year.

Bulgarian Churches are very impressive .



The weather is still looking grim as we ride south east heading to Turkey. Stopping short of the Boarder we spend another wet night in the tent in Bulgaria.




Waking to the sun beating down on us was a welcome sight. we all packed and by 8.30 were heading into Turkey.



At the Turkish boarder we were charged 50 e for insurance for the bike which we thought expensive. The only other country we have had to buy insurance in was Bosnia and that cost us 5 e.There We were sent to a house across the road from the Boarder crossing office and a old lady fills out the government insurance form. while I was sat at the kitchen table she gave me a large bowl of Strawberries to eat, then when I was leaving she gave me more to take with me . So were stood at the boarder eating strawberries with the two boarder guards !. The 5 e for the insurance was well worth it seeing that we got a large bag of strawberries in the price..lol

Turkey also charge 15 e for the Visa, it also took us about a hour to get through the boarder crossing.

Were staying at the Istanbul Bike clubs flat which is not expensive at only 15e pp pn. which for being so close to the city centre is a very good price.

Istanbul is amazing . Dazzer is not a lover of Cities but once you get over the bad driving the city itself is excellent




Turkey surprised us the people are wonderful, food and accommodation is cheap, only down side was the cost of fuel !!!

We all take Mehmet Aver out for a meal to thank him for all he as done for us.








The blue Mosque




After a excellent few days in Istanbul with the Istanbul bike club who were just a great bunch of people and we hope to return again . The nigh before we left they had a party





Leaving to catch the ferry to Yalova .Our next destination is Cappadocia









Camping here was cheap about 5 e each. I awoke at 5 am to the sound of the burners on the hot air balloons













Inside the Carved homes








The riding in Turkey was fun. Roads were quite good and once away for the cities were free of traffic .Its hellish hot now into the high 30'c in central Turkey.







Every time we stop for Gas the staff make us Tea and ask if we will eat with them.Very kind people indeed.




We arrive at Mount Nemrut just before sunset, so decided to stayed the night in the bunkhouse near the summit.

evening meal in the bunkhouse





The staff awoke us at 4am to walk to the summit to watch the sun rise, it was very cold but amazing to see.









The monument at the summit of Mount Nemrut








We have a invite through the Istanbul Bike club to stay with one of there friends in Sanliurfa. Arriving late afternoon it was so hot we were drinking none stop .

Taking up most of the narrow street with our bikes.



Darren and I choose to sleep in our tent on the roof while Iain and Debz got the room.





Close to Sanliurfa is a place called " Göbekli Tepe "


Göbekli Tepe is a Neolithic hilltop sanctuary erected at the top of a mountain ridge in the Southeastern Anatolia Region of Turkey, some 15 kilometers (9 mi) northeast of the town of Şanlıurfa..

It is the oldest known human-made religious structure. The site was most likely erected in the 10th millennium BCE and has been under excavation since 1994 by German and Turkish archaeologists .

Whats seemed strange to us was that The site was deliberately backfilled sometime after 8000 BCE

more info here

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G%C3%B6bekli_Tepe

[rtwpaul]

a long time coming...looking forward to it

[Dazzer]

Thanks Paul

Our aim was to enter Russia on the 1st June. So we decided to try and cross the boarder from Georgia into Russia. The info we had on the crossing was not to clear, some saying it was still closed to us from the west. The only way to find out for sure was to try for ourself's . If we were refused entry we would ride back to Turkey and get a ferry to take us over the Black sea.

Heading North now towards Georgia we find some of the best roads we have ridden in Turkey. Its now sad to say that these roads will now be under 100 feet of water due the the large dam which as now been built.



Parts of the road are already under water so small ferries take you across to where the road is still in use.










Next post... Georgia and Russia.

[Ducati7444]

Beautiful pictures and very well said...

[Dickyb]

Great stuff. Glad you've decided to go for a wider audience and thanks for the pointer to the G12 Dazzer.

Cheers,

David

[Dazzer]

While crossing the mountains in the North of Turkey we once again meet up with Will on his TTR600. He had taken a different route through Turkey.




Now being a pillion and having to stay seated on very rough roads is not easy... Dazzers says if he had been riding solo he would have been stood up on the pegs but when I'm on the back he stays seated and as adjusted his off road riding to suit this .





The crossing into Georgia went very well and all three bikes were through in less then a hour.

The people were great which was more then could be said for the roads.





Our first nigh in Georgia and were taken to a small house by a local that we meet in the town when we were changing some money.




The house owners look to be moving family members out so they can rent us the downstairs flat for the night ! They also have a garage to park the bikes in so we agree on a price then head off to the shop to buy food and beer.






All we could get was Sausage / Egg's / Bread and Beer. well what more do you need to make a good meal..



We also get some good news. A friend of our's Alix from the UK sent us a message to say that he had passed through the Georgian Russian boarder a few days back. Were glad to hear this as it would have been a long and costly ride back to Turkey to catch the ferry.

Next morning and Iain and Debz are taking a different route to the Russian Boarder. we arrange to meet up again in a few days time in Volgograd .

Little did we know then that it would be over 3 months and on the other side of the world before we would meet up again.


Our route would be taking us up into the mountains and over the Georgian Military Highway




By early afternoon a massive thunder storm was heading our way. By chance we came across a hotel at the side of the road. There were 3 BMW's outside all ADV riders . They gave us the news that they had seen Iain and Deb's a hour or so before we arrived. They had carried on towards the boarder. We decided to stop and sit out the storm.



Good food and very cheap




Next morning we head for the Boarder.The Georgian Military Highway is as bad as we had heard. Huge pot holes and after last nights rain it was very slippy. Having to keep changing what side of the road you were riding on to avoid the trucks which drive where they think is best.


















We stop at the top. Dazzer wants a hat to keep his head warm.




As we start dropping down the other side towards the Russian boarder and the weather picks up.






We arrive at the boarder and to our surprise were through in half a hour and at last were in Russia...




Our first stop in Russia is in a town called Baksan .We stop to change some money. Soon a crowed gathered around us looking at the bikes.Then one chap got on his phone and called his secretary down out of the office he then offers to take us back to his house to meet all his family and to stay the night.
So off we go on a mad ride through the city. All his family are there to meet us. they feed us we all have a vodka party. we spend the night staying in the spare room
Next morning they make us breakfast and more of the family show up to have their photos taken . After then show us how to get to the correct road to Volgograd.

It sounds mad but true. The Russians are so kind, Every time we stop people are giving us fruit or drinks. So Maggie and Ronnie were wrong what they said about the Russians......










The traffic was nut's getting into Volgograd so we stop at a small hotel on the tram route . We will park the bikes up for a few days and us the trams to get around.

The Volgograd War Memorial with Mother Russia in the back ground







It was very moving to visit this Memorial ,The names of all those who died defending what was then Starlingrad are written on the walls of the Hall with the eternal flame.













We intend riding across Russia and into Mongolia.

[Moronic]

Wow, great pics, inspiring tale (for those with grand-touring aspirations) and an unusual perspective!

I'm in.

[Travis Lutter]

Very Nice

[palace15]

I see Dazzer stopped to buy a new hat, any pictures of him wearing it?

[2much2do]

More please!

[Dazzer]

Leaving Volgograd and what can we say about the roads in Russia.

Some days it takes many hours to cover a short distance. The roads towards Samara are dreadful with some crazy driving . Our rear tyre starts to rip .


On the out skirts of Samara we meet up again with Will and a group of riders from Samara .

Darren wants another rear tyre , not yet wanting to use the TKC we have with us until we reach Mongolia . The tread on the TKC was still good but it was to much of a risk to ride with the damage.





Our friends managed to find us new Tyre and next day we went to a local garage to collect and fit it. While there Will get's then to service his bike and fit new fork seals. Darren does all his own work on our bike, as he says if anything then goes wrong he only as himself to blame.
The riders from Samara meet up with us at our hotel for a meal and few drinks . Then we all watch Mondo Enduro on our lap top , which they loved.

They have advised us not to wild camp in Russia.{ this is the 3rd group of Russian Bikers that had told us this } They all used to wild camp all over Russia up till about 5 years ago , about this time many people camping had been robbed and ether had their bikes damaged or stolen.
This is something we had not read about on The HU. When patch clubs are telling you its not safe to camp it may be best to listen . So for the sake of paying the £10 for a hotel were not going to risk it unless we have to.



We soon find out why many rider's ride through Kazakhstan ! Once you leave Chelyabinsk to Omsk to avoid entering Kazakhstan you have to head north at Kurgun . This is when you think the roads can not get any worse only to find out...Oh yes they can

Its not till you first try riding over a bridge that Moves till you realise just how unnerving it is...




This shot is a rare one. there are not many miles of tarmac this good in Russia.




This is more often than not what you get



You cant win. If the roads are dry the dust cloud is so thick you cant see anything at all, and if its wet the top 2 inch turns to mud and is very slippy. Great Fun.













Local Super Market.












We stayed in what seems to be the best city in Russia Omsk.




Very good roads with old buildings in very good condition. We stayed at Hotel Omsk. The young lady at the reception was very helpful sadly we cant say the same for the rest of the staff that must have all worked for the KGB in the past :lol:

Were now 8 hours in front of the UK and its not getting dark till after 11pm .

we have been leaving at 6am and try to stop at 3pm to miss the afternoon thunder storms. These make the roads very slippy and you keep getting soaked from other cars going through the deep water.




Yesterday just after we left out of my eye corner I thought I saw a bear. we stopped and turned around and WOW, not only was there one bear but two. this made our day.



Were now in Irkutsk for 2 days rest before we make our way to Lake Baikal and onto Mongolia.


Were enjoying the trip more than we thought we would and after 6 weeks were getting into it better now than we were in the first few weeks.. hope you all enjoy some of our photos

We had been riding east for a long time so it made a change to read the GPS saying Heading North.

We were on route to Lake Biakal.

The tarmac road runs out 67 km from the small town.

Some parts of the track are ok and others are not so good with soft sand and mud which make's the riding interesting to say the least.












We had to take a ferry across onto the Island which is free.



We arrive at Lake Biakal on the 21st June ,the weather is clear with a chill in the air.


Most will only have seen Lake Biakal on the TV on the LWR . The view we had of Biakal was some what different then the one we had seen on the TV..







The beach .....



Local Transport .............

[Dazzer]

Next Mongolia

[Dazzer]

we clocked 10,000 miles here so stopped to take a photo of Lenin in the back ground with former USSR buildings falling down.Were at the Boarder with Mongolia and decide to cross into Mongolia 1st thing in the morning



We find a cheap hotel which as safe parking for the bike.

Just then a mini bus pull's up, and out jump a group of Chinese and start filming us and interviewing us.
We had no Idea what was going on . They filmed and took photos of us for about 20 minutes then jumped back in the mini bus and shot off. All Darren and I could do was look at each other and start Laughing ..Mad






Were in need of a rest after I had suffered from a tummy upset every time I had eggs in Russia I was Ill and believe me having to spend time in a Russia WC is no fun at all.

We plan to make our way straight to The capital of Mongolia Ulaanbaatar.

The crossing into Mongolia is not that bad taking about 3 Hours.


The road into the City was in a very poor condition due to road works . Traffic coming in any direction :?












Our time is spent resting and drinking cold beer once they start to sell it again :roll: There has been a ban on the selling of alcohol for the last 2 day's while the elections are on..

Mongolia we find is less expensive than Russia. Its costing us about half as much to eat and drink here. Fuel is about 75p a Lt which is slightly more expensive than Russia. The food is better here and were only paying £10 each for a good double room with breakfast in the center of the city.

If you go one street back off the main city road [ Peace AV ] there are many restaurants. We picked one full of locals and ate there. It cost £2 for food and a coke .






Ulaanbaatar City center statue of Chengiz khan











We have had a great time in Ulaanbaatar.

Darren is not a lover of City life but he found Ulaanbaatar a very good city to visit. Were leaving on Monday around Mid day and heading for the Gobi Desert .

After the quite bland food we had been eating in Russia we have been feasting on very tasty meals here and eating out every day with it being so cheap.







Today we visited the Buddhist temple . It was a very spiritual place . This photo show's the Main Temple, you can see how high it is . Once you step inside its amazing to see that there is a Statue that reaches from the floor to the ceiling and almost fills the temple ,its massive.









At the base of the main statue on ether side are two other statues each is about 20 ft high.









In the grounds of the Temple .


























Next we go and explore rural Mongolia.

[Dazzer]

The day before we leave UB Darren turns the tyres and fits a new set of rear brake pads. Watched by the staff at the Hostel we have been staying at .








We head out of UB and ride south west.


Within a hour of leaving UB you get the feeling that your in a very remote place. In the far off distance you keep getting a glimpse of white topped Ger's . We see more horses and Eagles then people.






The weather as been warm but each day around mid afternoon we have been having some very heavy thunder storms. The dirt tracks are hard going two up with luggage the ground remain hard but the top inch is very slippy if you get off the main line

Darren finds it hard going just to keep us up right, which will play it's part in helping him lose 2 stone in weight before we leave Russia !






we pass many prayer flags at the side of the road



Not having the chance in Russia to do a great deal of walking we take the opportunity to hike up to the top of the nearest hill.



We decided to use the local Ger's to save our camping kit getting soaked again. Darren takes a afternoon nap.lol






The next day is dry and the tracks have dried out well over night . We now make good progress .






This is where you really do need a sat nav. we had no chance of reading the road signs. We also noticed that the Map of Mongolia we bought in the UK was not correct with some roads that were marked on our map as tarmac were in fact dirt tracks .





Our plan is to head to Central Mongolia to watch one of the many Festivals of Naadam.
There is a big storm heading our way so we stop for the night at a road side cafe.Within 30 minutes the storm hits .Rain so heavy we have never seen anything like it. Quite scary at times.



We spend the night with a Mongolian family, They would not except any payment from us. All they would allow us to do was share our Strawberry Jam cake that we had brought with us from UB. Very Kind people indeed.



I get to ride one of their horses that they are to be riding to the Naadam Festival, and Darren take one of them for a ride on the bike. I have never seen anything so funny The poor chap wanted to go fast .He had never been over 30mph he told us. Darren asked if he was sure, he said yes. So Darren took him up to 75mph . you could hear him screaming all the way as he held on to his hat with one hand and Darren's jacket with the other.







Watching the storm approach






Bad Hair Day..Plenty of these to come..





We arrive in Kharkhorin which in the 1200's served as the capital of the Mongol Empire .
Arriving just in time for the Naadam Festival .



The prize for winning one of the events is a New Chinese 125cc Motorbike.













They even get the Kids involved








Next day we would meet up with some fellow travelers .

[Dazzer]

Our camp is on the hillside overlooking Kharkhorin . There are about 8 Gers on the site that the family rent out. There cheap enough to keep us from using our own tent in these unpredictable weather conditions .





Here we meet Fellow bikers.. Adrian from Romania on his Transalp






Zita from Czech Republic on Her XT660Z Tenere




Csaba also from Czech Republic on His Africa Twin




Next up date ..our last week in Mongolia..and return to Russia which starts to take its toll on body and soul..A decision as to be made !!!