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Old 01-17-2013, 07:10 PM   #16
Twin headlight Ernie
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Welding

In the amount of time it took you guys to talk about it I could have welded it and had it back on the bike. Not a tough job at all. I've done a lot worse.
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:13 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Twin headlight Ernie View Post
In the amount of time it took you guys to talk about it I could have welded it and had it back on the bike. Not a tough job at all. I've done a lot worse.
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:23 PM   #18
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That would be a piece of cake to weld. I could do it for you if you want. I'd bolt it up to an engine block, which I have, and TIG it. Everyone here seems so concerned about warping, it makes me think you're looking at things backwards. Warping comes from a dramatic temperature gradient within the workpiece. Aluminum is a very efficient conductor of heat, and so it is hard to get a hot spot. Stainless is the opposite, it really wants to warp, because it holds all the heat right where you put it. As far a cleanliness is concerned, I don't think it would be a problem either, because you weld aluminum on AC current, which continually cleans the tungsten electrode. I welded the engine cases on my RD350 and didn't have any trouble at all.

Whoever made that thing did a really shitty job, and should be ashamed of themselves!
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:28 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by JonnyCash View Post
That would be a piece of cake to weld. I could do it for you if you want. I'd bolt it up to an engine block, which I have, and TIG it. Everyone here seems so concerned about warping, it makes me think you're looking at things backwards. Warping comes from a dramatic temperature gradient within the workpiece. Aluminum is a very efficient conductor of heat, and so it is hard to get a hot spot. Stainless is the opposite, it really wants to warp, because it holds all the heat right where you put it. As far a cleanliness is concerned, I don't think it would be a problem either, because you weld aluminum on AC current, which continually cleans the tungsten electrode. I welded the engine cases on my RD350 and didn't have any trouble at all.

Whoever made that thing did a really shitty job, and should be ashamed of themselves!
No shit. no wonder the outfit quit selling them over 20 years ago.
I think I found a Tig welding guy just over the mountain pass from me. Gives me an excuse for a ride tomorrow to go have him take a peek at it.
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:29 PM   #20
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I will agree with a few of the comments here. This is a very easy fix. If you mail it to me, or the others that offered help, it will be oil tight, and not be warped when done.
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:23 PM   #21
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I can only take my hat off to anyone who can weld ally soaked in oil.
Oil doesn't soak into the ally, but the oil will be deep down in the cracks.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:13 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by ME 109 View Post
I can only take my hat off to anyone who can weld ally soaked in oil.
Oil doesn't soak into the ally, but the oil will be deep down in the cracks.
Just a good cleaning, and PREHEAT! The secret to all aluminum welding
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:26 PM   #23
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Just a good cleaning
That's the only problem I see with this particular repair.
Ally pipe with 3/4" depth of close fitting ally around it.
The pipes that are only cracked half way around would be a real bitch to remove all the oil.

That pre-heat will capillary the oil all over the place, back to square one.

'Course, I could be completely wrong.
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:46 AM   #24
Bill Harris
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Welding it should be a piece o'cake, but I'd surely be discussing the "premium price" with the seller; NOS or not, this is a POS.

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Old 01-18-2013, 10:43 AM   #25
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I have welded a fair amount of aluminum. Aluminum parts can warp. BTDT A lot of the time you pretty much have to preheat the part. The rest of the time it just about never hurts.

So those perfect looking beads that leak oil are from welding oily metal? I thought just some alloys are prone to do it depending? I am pretty sure I have welded brand new valve covers and they leaked through the weld but maybe they were used?? I was thinking it was an alloy/filler rod combo.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:24 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
So those perfect looking beads that leak oil are from welding oily metal?
Perfect looking bead on top, lack of fusion underneath.
If you used a penetrating dye to test the weld, you would see the imperfection/s.
Minimum 60c and maximum 80c was the preheat range I worked with on heavy alloy.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:48 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by ME 109 View Post
Perfect looking bead on top, lack of fusion underneath.
If you used a penetrating dye to test the weld, you would see the imperfection/s.
Minimum 60c and maximum 80c was the preheat range I worked with on heavy alloy.
I found that it all depends on what alloy you are welding. Whatever it was, it wasn't lack of penetration.
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:15 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
I found that it all depends on what alloy you are welding. Whatever it was, it wasn't lack of penetration.
Your choices are: lack of fusion, crack, porosity, worm hole, although a worm hole generally wont go from one side to the other.
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:28 PM   #29
Houseoffubar
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Your choices are: lack of fusion, crack, porosity, worm hole, although a worm hole generally wont go from one side to the other.
+1
I've welded thousands of aluminum pressure vessels, and never had a leak, however, I have never made one with material that was of highly questionable quality that could itself leak from flaws in it's structure. That could for sure ruin my leak free record!
I have welded some corroded, or very poor quality castings, that, if they had been required to hold fluid, or pressure, they would have been a gamble at best.
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:32 PM   #30
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If that part landed on my bench at work here is what I would do...

Full degrease until I could eat out of it. Then each end would get a soak in acetone followed by a short heat with the propane torch to burn anything left out. Then it would be a short time to weld and some clean up. I would say its a 45 minute job, 30 if it comes in clean.
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