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Old 01-29-2013, 06:41 AM   #16
jdub
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Căta View Post
This is good info. I have to change the rubber seal, # 11 in the pic above, on a friend's r1200gsa.
Is it necessary to pull the Paralever at the pivot point to change the front accordion boot? Maybe by just sliding the driveshaft u-joint splined adapter rearward off of the gearbox output shaft (which you'll have to do anyhow) you'll have enough room to remove the old boot and slip the new one into place.
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:06 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdub View Post
Is it necessary to pull the Paralever at the pivot point to change the front accordion boot? Maybe by just sliding the driveshaft u-joint splined adapter rearward off of the gearbox output shaft (which you'll have to do anyhow) you'll have enough room to remove the old boot and slip the new one into place.
would love to hear an answer to this.. I should replace my boot as well.. the one farthest back #11, I have been avoiding it because I am unsure of the tear down necessary to do it... so I just ignore it.. seems like a good plan
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:56 AM   #18
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I couldn't replace the #11 boot on my 2005 with the swingarm on place, shock and driveshaft removed. Had to remove the swingarm. JVB was trying to help me with suggestions but I couldn't get anything to work without removing the swingarm.

--Kevin
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:20 PM   #19
Disco Dean
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I have an 06 Adv.

I have replaced the booth without removing the swing arm.

It is tight and a pain and your fingers will hurt. Hint you can use standard zip ties (the BMW versions are narrower to fit in the grooves) but you have to gently file down the two sides of the locking portion.

You do have to slide the drive shaft back though - which means dropping the FD down.

But much more simple than pulling the swing arm.

Dean
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:50 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Dean View Post
I have an 06 Adv.

I have replaced the booth without removing the swing arm.

It is tight and a pain and your fingers will hurt. Hint you can use standard zip ties (the BMW versions are narrower to fit in the grooves) but you have to gently file down the two sides of the locking portion.

You do have to slide the drive shaft back though - which means dropping the FD down.

But much more simple than pulling the swing arm.

Dean
Dean, do you have the 1150, or 1200?

Jim
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:08 PM   #21
Captdan OP
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I need to verify the torque specs for the swing arm job, I was told 40 nm for the Allen bolt, and 65 nm for the socket ( left side). Are there specs on the right three bolts that hold in the pin ( right side )? I'm installing all the replacement parts tomorrow.
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:13 AM   #22
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Dean, do you have the 1150, or 1200?

Jim
1200 Jim. Did I miss something?
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:48 AM   #23
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1200 Jim. Did I miss something?
Yeah, maybe. on the 1200 the part that usually won't fit doesn't have any kind of straps, it fits inside the swingarm and has a retaining clip on it, unlike the 1100/1150.

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Old 01-30-2013, 12:36 PM   #24
Disco Dean
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I thought he was talking about the boot between the swing arm and the tranny???

Dean
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:16 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Dean View Post
I thought he was talking about the boot between the swing arm and the tranny???

Dean
I am.



That front part is not the issue. It is getting the rear part to line up and stay in place that people have trouble with.

Jim
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:23 PM   #26
Disco Dean
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
I am.

That front part is not the issue. It is getting the rear part to line up and stay in place that people have trouble with.

Jim
So we are on the same page - yes - many bruised and cut fingers and much swearing to get that baby in but figured it out without removing the swing arm.... that one in your picture is pretty fracked up - it is a strangely tough and somewhat brittle rubber piece for there I think.
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:47 PM   #27
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Mine is way worse than pictured..but really, other than cosmetics, it doesn't do much..water just runs out the bottom..

I'll fix...someday..just not worth the hassle to mess with now.
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:55 PM   #28
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Update

Well, I got my newly refurbished drive shaft and new ( used via eBay) swing arm installed last week. Really, I was read for a real job but in the end it all worked out well. FYI, I did not have a need to buy or make a special socket, or use lock tight to install the pivot and nut on the left side swing arm. I simply torqued the pivot pin, marked it, and installed then torqued the nut. The Allen pivot pin never moved. Installing the drive shaft was easy, and stabbing the final drive back into place was a snap as well. Did a road test of around 100 miles yesterday and all seems ok. Thanks to all for the info and suggestions...
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