|02-08-2013, 07:50 AM||#31|
Joined: Apr 2006
Mine are all semi-auto bikes. A manual clutch motor is cheaper to buy on eBay although you can go crazy and buy one of the KLX/Honda clone 160cc hybrids that can be built up over 180cc. That would make for an interesting C70...
Personally I prefer the autoclutch for the basic 125 motors, though. Simpler (no clutch cable or lever to mess with) and especially on a Passport it greatly speeds up the conversion. Hanging a clutch lever on a stock Passport is going to require some fab work with the stock bars. Unless you're going to drag race or whatever I think you'll find the autoclutch is the way to go.
I'd rather have the "complication" of an oil cooler (two lines and an adapter plate) if I had a choice. Especially in hot weather this is a good thing.
Good to hear you've already got a 12v. bike. I'd like to find a good one and do a big motor conversion on it, making it look as stock as possible. Unfortunately most of the junquers I come across are 6v. models.
Boring fiction--One Last Ride in the Hoosier:
Eek!! More boring fiction--One Last Ride in the Hoosier Revisited:
|02-09-2013, 08:35 AM||#32|
Joined: Jun 2011
I find winter is such a bummer. It kills me to have two bikes in my garage just sitting there.
Looking forward to the changes I'll be making to my C70. One gripe about my bike is the strap on the seat, the metal part digs into me. It is easily removed but doesn't look as good. Looks vs comfort, that the dilemma.
Can't wait for spring. Newfoundland is about to get blasted today by yet another winter storm.
|02-12-2013, 12:02 AM||#33|
Ancient trailbike padwan
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: western oregon
My '68 Cub 125cc conversion uses a manual clutched long stroke engine, the clutch release pull is negligible, enough so that a short, sturdy BMX Bicycle brake lever works fine. removed the old grip and used an NOS Oakley BMX grip cut slightly shorter. Very smooth engagement even with the shorter lever.
I find it's also a lot easier to pull the clutch in to coast for hyper-mileaging on down hills and approaching stop signs. As much as I have liked the semi auto's I've owned in the past, having a manual clutch is a bit more intuitive in traffic and it just seems to shift faster.
We're here because of a love most exestential. (toothy)
|02-28-2013, 01:02 PM||#34|
Just wanted to give everyone an update on my project. If you recall, I was going
to clean the gas tank (lots, and LOTS of rust in there, come to find out!!!),
and do some other things. Well, here is a laundry list of whats been done thus
- Removed the fuel tank, and did a Evapo-Rust treatment, and lined it with Red
Kote. Here is the procedure I followed:
- plug petcock holes
- fill with Evapo-Rust (close to a gallon)
- Shake vigorously every few minutes for 30 min.
- Let product settle for overnight, dump out in the morning
- Remove plug from petcock holes, empty and shake out as much as possible.Blow
out inside tank with shopvac hose
Simple Green part
- plug petcock holes
- Mix some Simple Green with water, fill the tank
- Shake vigorously every couple min for about 10-15 min.
- Remove petcock plugs
- Run cold water w/water hose until no suds are seen and line is clear
- Empty the tank, use ShopVac hose to suck out all the water
- Plug lines, pour a pint of Acetone into tank, shake vigorously
- Drain out Acetone, repeat Acetone procedure, remove as much Acetone
- Unplug petcock holes, leave tank outside to dry
Red Kote part
- Plug petcock holes, and AROUND the fuel lid
- Using a funnel, pour the entire quart into the tank
- Tape fuel lid hole closed. DO NOT USE THE FUEL CAP
- Following the instructions on the Red Kote can:
- Rock slowly back and forth, up and down for about 30 min to get entire inside
- Product should start moving slower inside
- Once it starts congealing, remove tape from fuel lid and petcock holes, and
let product drain out through petcock holes back into Red Kote can
- Make sure all excess product is out. Might have to rock back and forth, and
let it sit on the can
- After about an hour or so of this, and all excess product is out, put on
cardboard and leave out in the sun to cure
- Curing is 8-24 hours. Wait then a couple days to put fuel in. Should have a
nice, red surface across all areas of the inside tank
Worked GREAT! After letting it sit for about 24 hours, I checked it, and it has
a nice, red lining inside. Should really protect against the elements! Bought
both the Evapo-Rust and Red Kote at O'Reilly's. Spent about $35.
Here is more things I have done:
- Replaced fuel lines with 6mm (1/4" fitting) clear Motion Pro lines (bought
from Bike Bandit)
- Replaced spark plug, although the old NGK one still looks good, so saving it
as a spare.
- Replaced petcock with aftermarket one from eBay
- Checked the points, still look like NEW (the cap hadn't ever been taken off,
from what I am guessing.. almost lost the gasket, as it was stuck pretty good to
its mounting point)
- Checked air filter, still looks pretty darned clean
- Bought a new battery, filled with acid last night, had it sitting on a 6V
(2amp) charge cycle for about 10 hours (I found out later that this was too strong of an amp to
be charging with.. it shows 6.4v when the bike is off, and it not being connected to the posts.
With posts connected, its at 6.2v, and after riding around for a bit, it showed 14.3v????; its a WPS battery)
- Drained the float bowl. Will carb clean if needed. Will be running some
SeaFoam through it with the fuel.
Here in the next couple of months, I will be stripping the paint off the bike,
and repainting it. Haven't decided on a color yet.
I was able to ride around some after having to kick start it for awhile. No fuel in the carb, and had to get it in
there! Then it ran like a champ, although the idle speed is too high.
Anyhow, sorry if this was too long of a read! I hope others can get some good
info out of it, though! I will update more as I get more things done to it.
txsizzler screwed with this post 02-28-2013 at 06:12 PM
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