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Old 01-20-2013, 08:48 AM   #1
RDKL_beemer OP
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Oddometer: 6
R1150GS, No Clutch

Hi Everyone,

I got my bike back together with some of your help after a complete rebuilt. Bike was basically in parts after mishap two years ago. So, I got it back together and it started right up. Tried to take it for a test run, to discover, "no clutch". Clutch was bled, lever feels fine. I can shift through gears, but when releasing clutch, it won't engage. Bike just sits there, no pull at all with clutch released. Clutch was working fine before accident and motor and transmission have never been separated.

Short of taking it all apart again is there anything I can try or check.

Spring will be here soon and I am looking forward to meeting you crazy Adventurers on the road again.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:03 AM   #2
the-oz-slider
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My uneducated guess is that your clutch slave down at the back of the clutch actually isnt disengaging but is seized.
I would pull it off and with the help of a friend hold it over a waste bucket and pull the lever in and see if the slave actually operates. Dont however pull the lever more than once otherwise you run the risk of driving the piston out of the slave.
Another way would be to put a plumbers adjustable pliers across it so that there is tension on the pin that pushes the clutch in, and slowly pull the level in, that should create tension on the pliers and you will be able to feel it.

Just an FYI, I spent half a day bleeding my ?!$)&(879@0 clutch to remove one bubble of air, and the clutch wouldnt work properly right up until that last feakin' bubble was gone....

As usual its most likely something quite simple, good luck.....
Al
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:22 PM   #3
DRONE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the-oz-slider View Post
My uneducated guess is that your clutch slave down at the back of the clutch actually isnt disengaging but is seized.
I would pull it off and with the help of a friend hold it over a waste bucket and pull the lever in and see if the slave actually operates. Dont however pull the lever more than once otherwise you run the risk of driving the piston out of the slave.
Another way would be to put a plumbers adjustable pliers across it so that there is tension on the pin that pushes the clutch in, and slowly pull the level in, that should create tension on the pliers and you will be able to feel it.

Just an FYI, I spent half a day bleeding my ?!$)&(879@0 clutch to remove one bubble of air, and the clutch wouldnt work properly right up until that last feakin' bubble was gone....

As usual its most likely something quite simple, good luck.....
Al
How'd you know there was a bubble?

How'd you know when it was finally gone?

I just did the clutch bleed on WUMPA and I felt like I was just guessing about how much fluid to add and bleed.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:40 PM   #4
def
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I have always found that vacuum works better to remove air from brake and clutch systems.

A plastic milk jug, a shop vac, some clear tubing, attach the tubing to the bleed screw nipple, insert the shop vac into the jug, turn on the shop vac and open the bleed screw. Keep the reservoir full of the appropriate fluid and close the bleed screw when the system is full of fresh fluid.

Simple.
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:33 AM   #5
nexus6
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..maybe this video can help u with some info .. not sure.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PdVvxMwz_A
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:44 AM   #6
FatChance
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I have heard of at least two people here over the years who lubed the input shaft spines on an 1150GS, put the bike back together and had the exact same symptoms. It turns out that when putting the final drive back on, the FD input shaft slipped and did not engage the rear end of the driveshaft so the driveshaft was not connected to the FD. It can happen. Not saying that is what happened to you at all, but it is one possibility that has been reported with the same symptoms and something to consider. If you don't come up with any other explanation, pull back the FD boot, rotate the back wheel and make sure the driveshaft rotates before pulling the transmission all the way off to recheck the clutch.
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:10 AM   #7
Jim Moore
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That's a weird one. Normally with a clutch problem you can't disengage the clutch. I'm understanding you correctly you seem to have the opposite problem, meaning the plates are being held apart. I can't picture a mechanism that would do that. Did you totally miss your driveshaft when you reconnected the final drive? Did your clutch get bathed in oil, and now is slipping completely?

Here's simple one to check. Too much fluid in your master cylinder, causing the system to pressurize and hold the slave cylinder in the "disengaged" position.
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:42 AM   #8
Steptoe
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Air in the slave cylinder or a failed slave cylinder would have the opposite problem to what you have ? . i.e. you'd have drive but it would be difficult to disengage gear or stop the bikes drive by pulling in the clutch

Is the clutch permanently disengaged ? Is the clutch lever only working the clutch pushrod ?

With the bike in gear and engine not running can you turn the rear wheel by hand ?
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:57 PM   #9
GeorgeinVA
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What was the damage to the bike?
Pull the starter and look to see if the clutch moves at all when the lever is pulled and released.
It would be a crazy coincidence but it is possible that the clutch spline failed a split second before the accident.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:26 AM   #10
beechhunter
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+1

+1 on checking the drive shaft. Been there done that.
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:59 AM   #11
FatChance
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What did the problem turn out to be?
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:08 PM   #12
s1marks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beechhunter View Post
+1 on checking the drive shaft. Been there done that.
+2, I felt like an idiot! Feel better now I know I'm not the only one that has done this. Check the drive shaft.
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