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Old 03-27-2014, 09:14 PM   #16
SE Steve
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So just went and broke my clutch in per the break in instructions. Clutch started slipping so bad it wouldn't push the weight of the bike up my drive way. There's no free play gain no matter how I adjust the adjuster on the clutch slave. Glad I did this before I got stuck with a loaded down bike in the middle of no were. I was very impressed when I installed it everything went right together and free play gain adjusted very easy. But now it coming back out I don't trust this now.
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Old 03-28-2014, 06:40 AM   #17
ebrabaek
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A few things to check, and please bear with me, as I do not have the Rekluse in the KTM. The different part number fibrous disc pictured..... Are the tabs on the outside same with as the others. Some clutches have a narrower outside tap, that goes on the inside ( first on the basket)
Are both these issues with the EXP 3.0 Utilizing the 6 thin Rekluse Fibrous discs....???
If the freeplay gain moves shortly after install, then something is wrong....!!!
I know you have already tried to contact them, but this is a matter they need to be aware of, as you will burn your clutch in a short while.
As the EXP 3.0 with their springs is true and tried on the 950/990 I would recommend stop riding, and get a hold of them, as something is obviously wrong.
I will bring this thread to their attention, as this is not normal. It is rare for them NOT to contact yop back. They are an excellent company.
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Old 03-28-2014, 08:51 AM   #18
SE Steve
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Took the clutch apart and the center is loose it wasn't loose when I put the clutch together
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Old 03-28-2014, 11:04 AM   #19
SE Steve
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I called tech support this morning. It looks like the free play gain on my bike was set to tight. I readjusted it and instead of 1 full turn to get the correct free play gain I only need 3/4. However in the process of checking adjustments I have lost the Jam nut I guess my bike is trying to tell me something so I guess I'm going to park her and ride a different one today. I'm still not 100% sure this problem won't come back but I'm going to test it out closer to home instead of a long ride.
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Old 03-28-2014, 08:17 PM   #20
Pete640
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That's the clutch booster. It has another part behind that's profiled (angled). When the motor spins it created more pressure on the plates through gyroscopic forces. I have replaced mine on the 950 due to one of the 6 lugs sheering off and playing pong with other eng components
There should be a little movement on this part in a back/forward rotational direction. No problems there
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Old 03-28-2014, 10:59 PM   #21
ebrabaek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1coolbanana View Post
I got an email back from Rekluse asking me to strip it down and take pics and measure everything up, which Ive done.
In the process, Ive discovered that the apparent numbers on the discs is the pics above are meaningless as Ive found that I have about the same number of each number and they all look the same bar the one with the wider friction pads.
So forget about the numbers on them, the only difference is visual.

Also, I need to clarify that all the slipping I was getting was high revs not low, like above 5k rpm when opening her up in 4th, 5th and 6th gears.

Ive taken it for a quick spin and no slip now but a cant really try it out at "out of town" speeds in the burbs.
That is under high load/torque. For some reason there are not enough clamping force on your plates. And you can/will wear out your clutch in a matter of a few runs. Stay with Rekluse. I pointed the thread to them, and I have nothing but the utmost confidence they will fix'ya up. That's what they do.
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Old 04-23-2014, 06:04 AM   #22
Yascher
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That is complete crap...something is totally wrong here, as the recluse itself is designed to disengage at idle, and all the adjustment should do, is to tune in the exact moment it disengages and has no drag at idle.
If you get some slip on revs slightly above idle, it means need to run in or adjust.

But yours slips at high torque/load-therefore it is not recluse related (at least directly) it means that it slips due to too little friction in the discs-which could be the result of many things:
- damaged/dented discs
- incorrect oil (which i doubt)
- damaged/grooved clutch basket, which grabs the discs and prevents normal sliding/enegagement

just to check, try changing for heavier set-up with optional parts from recluse kit.

might be a good idea to post your parts pictures here as well

last resort-put the original clutch discs without the exp and see if it works properly, but keep the recluse slave
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Old 04-23-2014, 05:20 PM   #23
RoundOz
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My recent install slipped in high gears on first trial. I had adjusted the clutch movement as per the manual....1/8" or so when revved. I checked the adjustment again when I got back (everything heated up and broke in well) and there was no clutch lever movement (slack) at all. Adjusted it again to the 1/8th to 1/4" movement when revved and have put 500+ miles on it with no further slippage. Perfect.

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Old 04-23-2014, 05:25 PM   #24
RoundOz
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BTW, I am several hours from home, the bike and the install manual but I am oretty sure the troubleshooting section states that slippage in high load situations can be due to incorrect adjustment...not enough lever movement when revved in neutral.

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Old 04-25-2014, 04:42 AM   #25
Yascher
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I'm not sure what exactly 3/4 turns are doing, I didn't use the manual and adjust only by the grab on the idle, as far as bike it slowly trying creeping forward without brakes when fully hot it is OK, if it doesn't creep, than it means there is too much slack, and it might slip in the taller gears at increased torque
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Old 04-25-2014, 07:24 PM   #26
RoundOz
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Okay...I have the Exp 2.0 manual in front of me now.

The term is Free Play Gain...the amount the clutch lever play increase on revving the bike in neutral. The 3/4 turn (1 turn in the book) is just the initial adjustment of the slave cylinder. The free play gain is the correct way to fine tune this and it should be checked after warming up and after break-in, and periodically thereafter. 1/8" is the recommended gain. It is also stated that the LC-8 is prone to large changes from cold to warmed-up. The bike should not be ridden without it adjusted correctly, it says. There are videos and docs on the website that illustrate this. The latest version is the 3.0 ...not sure of the changes.
By the way, my kit came with different weights and springs for adjustment. Not sure what effect these have but I'm guessing it would change how and when the clutch engages. I have not felt the need to experiment...mine feels pretty good.
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Old 04-25-2014, 07:27 PM   #27
RoundOz
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I agree with your adjustment point...

...mine is adjusted per the manual and has a slight tendency to creep forward. I can easily hold it with one foot on the ground.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yascher View Post
I'm not sure what exactly 3/4 turns are doing, I didn't use the manual and adjust only by the grab on the idle, as far as bike it slowly trying creeping forward without brakes when fully hot it is OK, if it doesn't creep, than it means there is too much slack, and it might slip in the taller gears at increased torque
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Old 04-25-2014, 08:16 PM   #28
renogeorge
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I have installed several of these on smaller KTMs. It easy to miss the "start" point on the slave adjustment. When you are there, it will be MUCH harder to turn. I missed this the first time and started counting clicks too soon. As someone said, the "free gain" works. Keep turning the adjuster in until you have the specified gain/clutch lever movement. Then fine tune in SMALL increments.

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Old 04-26-2014, 06:56 AM   #29
RoundOz
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My info may be different...

...but the 2.0 instructions (yes I found that section at the back) say the weights are for softer engagement (both 9x0's use the same heavy weights standard). and the spring combos are for adjusting where the engagement point is -different combos for 990/950.
I'm obviously no expert, just a happy end user with, in this case, the wrong manual, but I don't think your adjustment should be so finicky. Here are the steps I would try though, unless you have already done them:
Bleed the slave one more time...slowly and carefully.
Use mineral oil unless all your components have been changed and brake fluid is ok.
Make sure your engine oil is JASO MA rated and clean.
Check your idle speed is correct (Via TuneEcu is the only way I have done it but I am sure there are other ways)
Check your chain adjustment and whether it is stretched in one spot (thinking of causes for the shuddering).
Check the slave is operating smoothly (May need to remove the clutch cover to do that).
Check for free play in the clutch components
Check the clutch boss/judder spring (don't know much about this - just repeating what the manual says)
Check that all the plates are flat on a piece of glass
Lightly deglaze them and rinse them well.
Check that if you are using different spring colors, that the two colors are on opposite sides of the EXP.
Again, sorry if you have done all this.
If still not happy contact an expert (like CJ) who uses a Rekluse and/or hit Rekluse or your distributor up for new components.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1coolbanana View Post
Went for a little 30 k ride today and there was no more slipping but it does shudder on take off.
EXP 3 is different to EXP 2 in that the EXP 3 comes with a set of six drive plates.
The different spring combos are for changing the feel of the clutch take up, from slow smooth, standard and hard and fast.
The different weights are for the 950.
My free gain is still at 3mm, at just that creep point where its always been...........until it starts to slip and then theres none and the slave has to be backed off
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Old 04-26-2014, 11:58 AM   #30
Nailhead
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Mine shudders a lot, and makes quite a racket on take-off, but it works well, so I live with the weird noises.

A note on your troubleshooting hints, Oz: somewhere I read ATF is an acceptable substitute for mineral oil in the clutch. I'm using ATF+4 & it's worked just fine, it just adds a little drag to the clutch pull.
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