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Old 06-24-2015, 07:17 AM   #1
irazu OP
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Drive shaft rebuild with grease fittings

Details:

2005 R1200GS with 39K. I have put on 1200 miles since I purchased 3 weeks ago

I received the drive shaft MSI (talk to david moul). I would have preferred using Bruno since his approach is to cut a grove for a c-clip so its easy for me to replace u-joint at home but the cost is higher and the lead time was several weeks out.

I have talked to several people and I am told that tack welding is a dependable way of securing a ujoint in these types of set-ups where there is no way to fit a c-clip. Its was not balanced but nor is Brunos work balanced. MSI was professional to deal with and once they had it in their hands it was out the door pretty much the next day. Below are some pictures and some things I learned during this whole operation.

1. If you go the MSI rout tell them to not paint over the grease fittings.

2. re-installing the drive shaft for me was a very patience intensive process. I did however, learn a few things. The position of the para-lever is a factor. I sent my Ohlins out for rebuild so my paralever was hanging all the way down. In this position it was not possible. I lined it up but the angle was too aggressive to allow the splines to align themselves and complete the coupling. When I put the paralever inline with the transmission it was also difficult. There is a sweet spot between the two positions and i fine-tuned it with a tie-strap as seen in the last picture.

3. the heavy side of the shaft couples with the output shaft of the transmission. Since it is heaver at that end the falls below the shaft and there is too little on the other end for leverage. I used a thin 2cm wide flat strip of metal to support the front end and with my fingers at the front end i aligned the two and then a tap with a rubber mallet it went in.

4. I had a shudder when i would downshift mostly from 3rd to 2nd. hopefully this will address that issue

5. I finally got it into position with the trans in first not neutral

6. Time will tell if having the ability to re-lube the joints will make a difference in service life.

7. I picked a grease with good EP load (500kg) and good fretting wear. ISO viscosity of 200. Some of the bearing greases out there are ISO 100 which IMO is too light. The ISO 200 will be better for shock-loads. It was a LiComplex grease which is really best for this application. A polyurea which is what is used in OEM filled CV joints would work fine too but hard to get.

One question I have. There is a retaining clip on the front splines that snap into a grove on the out-put shaft of the trans. Mine appear to have snapped in but when I attached the rear to the FD the top screw that attaches to the FD and holds the paralever assembly was difficult to put in -- it just barely makes it. I had to thread it in and that does not seem correct. Its like the splines somewhere along the line have not taken their proper position in relation to each other. I feel it needs to slide a bit father so that that screw will slide right in with wiggle room in both directions. The only thing I can think of is the the retaining clip to the output shaft is not in position. I am thinking that if when i get it all snapped up and let the weight of the bike will push everything into position it will align. Am I missing something???? red arrow shows the screw that I am talking about. did not quite line up -- needed about 2mm. As I mentioned before --I had to thread it in. seems like there was some room in both directions so as to comfortable slide screw in


Tac-welds -- all of them on the shaft are uniform = good for keeping balance



Grease fitting



Helped me position paralever at the best angle



Here is MSI contact info. keep in mind I have zero affiliation with these guys. I have no idea what the long term durability of this set-up will be. Ill get it all snapped up this week and test out this weekend.

David Moul

Machine Service, Inc.
8762 Foxfire Lane
Baldwinsville, NY 13027
Ph: 315-638-7644

irazu screwed with this post 06-24-2015 at 07:26 AM
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Old 06-24-2015, 07:34 AM   #2
MassiveLee
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When I'll have a driveshaft rebuilt, I'll make sure I'll also ask not to put any paint on it... There's no reason to paint a driveshaft.
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Old 06-24-2015, 07:48 AM   #3
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When I had a motor home driveshaft serviced years ago, they painted it where they had heated it with a torch and where they had removed paint using sandpaper. It didn't rust. Im sure the painting is routine practice in their shop.

I want paint but I prefer a nice pink or purple.
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Old 06-24-2015, 07:54 AM   #4
irazu OP
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Originally Posted by def View Post
When I had a motor home driveshaft serviced years ago, they painted it where they had heated it with a torch and where they had removed paint using sandpaper. It didn't rust. Im sure the painting is routine practice in their shop.

I want paint but I prefer a nice pink or purple.
I have no problem with the painting. Id rather they did not paint the grease fitting but that is a minor deal. I understand the logic. Most driveshafts are exposed to the elements and since driveshafts is what they do the have that mindset to do them all that way. also they attach some stickers, one is a warning which probably would not stick too well on a bare shaft. I am sure their lawyer recommended they have all the warnings possible stuck permanently to the shaft.

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Old 06-24-2015, 09:29 AM   #5
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Painting a rebuilt driveshaft is indeed common practice in the automotive world where the driveshaft is exposed to a lot of water, mud and salt. On my GS, I'd rather have a discreet coat of paint to protect the welded areas.
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Old 06-24-2015, 03:05 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MassiveLee View Post
Painting a rebuilt driveshaft is indeed common practice in the automotive world where the driveshaft is exposed to a lot of water, mud and salt. On my GS, I'd rather have a discreet coat of paint to protect the welded areas.
I'm trying to figure out why you would not want it painted, especially with welded and raw metal on it. Just because the shaft is inside the swingarm, with boots, humidity and moisture often get inside of the swingarm. Rust is invariably the result!
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Old 06-24-2015, 04:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
I'm trying to figure out why you would not want it painted, especially with welded and raw metal on it. Just because the shaft is inside the swingarm, with boots, humidity and moisture often get inside of the swingarm. Rust is invariably the result!

Only on a BMW forum.
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Old 06-24-2015, 04:33 PM   #8
irazu OP
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
I'm trying to figure out why you would not want it painted, especially with welded and raw metal on it. Just because the shaft is inside the swingarm, with boots, humidity and moisture often get inside of the swingarm. Rust is invariably the result!
I think the logic goes that covered with grease there is no need. I am sure there is a cost associated with painting the shaft. I like the paint. id rather it have been just the shaft and not the fittings
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:20 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
I'm trying to figure out why you would not want it painted, especially with welded and raw metal on it. Just because the shaft is inside the swingarm, with boots, humidity and moisture often get inside of the swingarm. Rust is invariably the result!
Can the shop reproduce the same paint as from the factory? If not, then leave it alone. The paint job that was pictured is... fugly. Not on any of my bikes please.
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MassiveLee View Post
Can the shop reproduce the same paint as from the factory? If not, then leave it alone. The paint job that was pictured is... fugly. Not on any of my bikes please.
The point of paint on a driveshaft is not aesthetic, it is protection. Would you leave your frame unpainted? No? They why would you leave something as important as a driveshaft unpainted. Rust is a real issue, especially after welding. It is not like you can see it!

As for paint on the grease nipple, that will be gone the first time you actually grease the shaft. Have non of you ever replaced a greasable car driveshaft before?
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:52 PM   #11
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Only on a BMW forum.
What washing/cleaning product do you use on your driveshaft Jet? Me, I'm going to paint and clearcoat mine. I'll use Glasurit. I had a good experience with that brand 50 years ago when I painted my '59 VW convertible.

What are your thoughts sir?
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Old 06-24-2015, 07:21 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by def View Post
What washing/cleaning product do you use on your driveshaft Jet? Me, I'm going to paint and clearcoat mine. I'll use Glasurit. I had a good experience with that brand 50 years ago when I painted my '59 VW convertible.

What are your thoughts sir?
I use Turco to clean my drive-shaft, I'm thinking of painting it yellow with Imron.
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Old 06-24-2015, 07:36 PM   #13
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:56 PM   #14
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irazu, you driveshaft seems to be rebuilt with the same U-joints as mine http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1034286 , post 17. Upon installation I found that the grease fittings didn't clear the splines on the transmission and the final drive. I replaced them with flat head screws.
Driveshaft shouldn't rust if installed correctly. (Not sure about deep crossings). Mine had no rust when I removed it for the rebuild, and I rode through some serious rains. After I reinstalled it, my rear gutter didn't fit well and would frequently pop out just a little. When I took the driveshaft out this week, it had rust on the lower third. I treated it with the Naval Rust Jelly and rubbed it with Belray Waterproof grease. I also made sure that the gaiter was seated correctly and liberally applied the same grease around the seal.
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Old 06-25-2015, 05:09 AM   #15
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I had my 1150 shaft rebuilt a total of 3 times through MSI .Went too long first time I had it done (25k before I pulled it for re-grease) 2nd time the front one went bad (I could always feel the slight bit of slop in throttle) I was at 15k miles. Finally started pulling it at 8k to re-grease and it was okay then. But putting 2200 miles a month on it that frequency was a pain in the ass. Would have just sent to Brunos if I did it over again as with a cir-clip I could replace them myself or bough a brand new one.
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