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Old 01-27-2015, 08:24 AM   #1
MarkM OP
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R1200GSW rear brake maintenance problems

I'm trying to service my rear brakes and having issues.
  1. I bought Carbone Lorraine pads from BBY. I cannot get the inner (right side) pad to fit between the caliper assembly and the disk--there's not enough room either because the pad is too thick or the caliper assembly won't move over enough to make room. Anyone else have trouble fitting Carbone Lorraine pads on the new GS? Any tips?
  2. I decided to put the old pads back in (not quite worn out) and flush the brake fluid because it is due. I've flushed brakes on lots of bikes in the past with no issues, but this time I committed a stupid noob mistake: I managed to run my rear reservoir empty and suck some air into the system. I put more fluid in the reservoir but now I can't get it to firm up--obviously air in there still. How do I get the air out?
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:28 AM   #2
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First, on the pads, did you get the piston pushed all the way in? New pads are pretty tight. Also, did you clean and lube the pins?

For bleeding, pump and bleed as normal until you get it as good as you can, then hang ten pounds of weight on the pedal overnight. This helps the bubbles rise up and out of the system, most of the time.

Oh, and have you bled the front yet? This can effect the rear, linked brakes.
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:34 AM   #3
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Yes, I pushed the pistons in all the way. I cleaned and lubed only the retaining pin. Should the guide pins be lubed as well? Is there a procedure somewhere that applies to the GSW?

Thanks for the tip on how to get the air out. I was wondering if I would need to find another bleed screw in the system. I have not bled the front yet--that's next.
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:38 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkM View Post
Yes, I pushed the pistons in all the way. I cleaned and lubed only the retaining pin. Should the guide pins be lubed as well? Is there a procedure somewhere that applies to the GSW?

Thanks for the tip on how to get the air out. I was wondering if I would need to find another bleed screw in the system. I have not bled the front yet--that's next.
I guess it depends on the guide pins. At 6K miles and no mud and snow, it is likely fine. At 30K miles of mud and salt, definitely clean/lube them.

Do the front first, then check the rear again. Also, make sure you ordered/received the right pads from BBY. He is usually very accurate, but no one is perfect.
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Old 01-27-2015, 04:44 PM   #5
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It appears I ordered the correct pads. The number on the back of the pads isn't the same as the packaging other than the "396", but I assume they are the right ones. Notice on the lower pad the scratches from trying to push it into place. I'll do the other stuff you suggested and see how it goes.

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Old 01-28-2015, 08:56 AM   #6
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Thanks for the tip on how to get the air out. I was wondering if I would need to find another bleed screw in the system. I have not bled the front yet--that's next.
According to the service manual, there are no additional bleeders on the abs module for the GSw. You may need to dismount the rear master cylinder and move it upwards to get air bubbles in the line to rise into it.
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Old 01-28-2015, 09:21 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by atwoodtja View Post
According to the service manual, there are no additional bleeders on the abs module for the GSw. You may need to dismount the rear master cylinder and move it upwards to get air bubbles in the line to rise into it.
Before I did that I would back bleed it. Use a syringe and force the fluid from the caliper up to the reservoir.
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Old 01-28-2015, 01:38 PM   #8
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If I remember correctly one of the pads is thinner than the other - is that the case with the ones you got? I did not see that noted in the post. That would be enough to do it as they are very tight when new and like Jim said - all the pieces need to be clean and free from any dirt as that will cause issues.
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Old 01-28-2015, 08:00 PM   #9
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If I remember correctly one of the pads is thinner than the other - is that the case with the ones you got? I did not see that noted in the post. That would be enough to do it as they are very tight when new and like Jim said - all the pieces need to be clean and free from any dirt as that will cause issues.
They are about the same thickness: 7.6 and 7.7 mm. The old pads are 5.6 and 5.8 mm. I'm guessing they are nominally the same.
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Old 01-28-2015, 09:13 PM   #10
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Tried getting them on again this evening without success. Does anyone have new rear BMW brake pads lying around that you could measure the thickness on? I'd love to know if these are thicker than stock.
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Old 01-28-2015, 09:16 PM   #11
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Tried getting them on again this evening without success. Does anyone have new rear BMW brake pads lying around that you could measure the thickness on? I'd love to know if these are thicker than stock.
Send Mike at BBY an e-mail. He will verify them for you.
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Old 01-28-2015, 09:26 PM   #12
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Send Mike at BBY an e-mail. He will verify them for you.
I beat you to it. We are already emailing about it. Mike is very responsive (13 minutes to reply). Great place to deal with.
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Old 02-12-2015, 08:54 PM   #13
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For anyone interested in the outcome:
  • The brake pads were fine. The problem was that the front guide pin was corroded inside the rubber boot, which kept it from sliding freely so that I could insert the pad. I sanded it smooth and lubed both guide pins. The new pads fit great.
  • I waited a day and was able to bleed out all the air bubbles, no problem. Good firm brakes now.
Special thanks to JVB for the advice. It was spot on.
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Old 02-13-2015, 12:28 AM   #14
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The problem was that the front guide pin was corroded inside the rubber boot, which kept it from sliding freely so that I could insert the pad. I sanded it smooth and lubed both guide pins. The new pads fit great
How do those brake pads compare to the oem's? Also how many miles do you have on your bike and any idea what caused the corrosion? Thanks
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:02 AM   #15
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How do those brake pads compare to the oem's? Also how many miles do you have on your bike and any idea what caused the corrosion? Thanks
The Carbone Lorraine pads are sintered; I think OEM are not. I'll have to get back to you on how I like the braking power--haven't gotten to test them yet. I bought the bike with 9K miles and it now has 13K. I do not know what caused the corrosion, but speculate that power washing by the original owner may have forced water into the rubber boot that covers the pin. Once the water was inside and trapped there, it wouldn't take long for corrosion to set in.
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