1150gs muffler question?

[bobinaustin]

i know there are tons of posts here about muffler (silencer) but i have a basic questions that everyone seems to gloss over...

how do i remove it? the reason I ask is... im trying to get to my clutch slave cylinder and i am told that removing the muffler and shock is need to gain access. so far. i have unbolted the muffler from the passenger peg and loosened the bolt at the cat... but it doesnt seem to want to come off. i can wiggle it but pulling on it doesnt seem to make it work loose. if its just a case of brute force, then i shall do it. but if i am missing anything please let me know!

[gsweave]

Originally Posted by bobinaustin

i know there are tons of posts here about muffler (silencer) but i have a basic questions that everyone seems to gloss over...

how do i remove it? the reason I ask is... im trying to get to my clutch slave cylinder and i am told that removing the muffler and shock is need to gain access. so far. i have unbolted the muffler from the passenger peg and loosened the bolt at the cat... but it doesnt seem to want to come off. i can wiggle it but pulling on it doesnt seem to make it work loose. if its just a case of brute force, then i shall do it. but if i am missing anything please let me know!

Shouldn't have to remove muffler. Just the shock

Should have all the clearance you need to pull the bottom shock bolt by lowering the swing arm more, yes unbolt the top shock bolt first, do not however allow rear hub to bounce off the garage floor.


If you want to continue with the muffler removal it is one clamp just behind cat pipe. wiggle and pull, yes it will be stubborn. When you reinstall use small amount of copper antiseize on pipe

[kellymac530]

I have found, on my R1100RT anyway, that the easiest way to get the cat/muffler off is to completely loosen the clamp at the head pipe and use a brass drift punch and a small hammer to drive the clamp forward off of the muffler, this relaxes the grip of the muffler to the head pipe.

THen of course it is just the rear bolts at the rear foot peg area and lots of wiggle and pulling and working. There is some rubber vibration dampeners under the motor near the center stand, but those do not need to be removed or loosened.

[Twilight Error]

Originally Posted by gsweave

Shouldn't have to remove muffler. Just the shock

Should have all the clearance you need to pull the bottom shock bolt by lowering the swing arm more, yes unbolt the top shock bolt first, do not however allow rear hub to bounce off the garage floor.


If you want to continue with the muffler removal it is one clamp just behind cat pipe. wiggle and pull, yes it will be stubborn. When you reinstall use small amount of copper antiseize on pipe

Prior to applying anti-seize, clean up all the mating surfaces involved with a wire brush. Not only will reassembly be easier, taking it apart again when you need to won't be as difficult.

[DRONE]

Bob, on WUMPA the chrome cover messed me up. That's the curved piece that goes between the cat and the silencer to pretty up the joint. I could not get my silencer to pull free until I had loosened the clamp for the cover as well as the clamp around the cat outlet. Then, yes, brute force while twisting back and forth.

The advice about using copper anti-seize . . . hmmmm. I have blowback leakage issues at that joint. I use exhaust cement--kind of the opposite of anti-seize! If you can get a good seal with anti-seize then that sounds good to me, but if not then consider muffler cement.

[das Motorradreiter]

Don't forget to unscrew or unplug the O2 sensor if you plan on pulling the cat out.

Also, I used this to seal my Staintune collector to my stock head pipes:
http://www.permatex.com/products/pro...t-maker-detailhttp://www.permatex.com/products/pro...t-maker-detail
I was told that if I do not get a good seal, I could experience back-firing.
It's gooey yet slippery to aid in installation but hardens and seals after it cures.
This might work better for you than anti-seize in the long run.