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01-23-2013, 03:11 PM
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#16 |
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One wheel wonder...
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Moneyapolis, MN
Oddometer: 6,434
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Made it to work. FYI that little heater didn't do shit in 12 degree weather.
Going to be a cold ride home tonight! I was thinking of trying my 1500 W space heater from my inverter..
__________________
"Tough times don't last, but tough people do." Robert A. Schuler
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01-23-2013, 03:38 PM
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#17 |
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dennism
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Kansas, USA
Oddometer: 95
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In a case like this, I'd get a package of the Bars Leaks tablets at any parts store. Dissolve them in about a quart of hot water, and then add the whole lot to the radiator fluid with the engine running, and right away take it for a 10 or 20 minute drive.
It's not an elegant fix, for sure, but it will likely get you through until Spring, when you can do it the right way and flush the sealer out again. The important part is to thoroughly dissolve those tablets in hot water first, don't just drop them in the radiator like they tell you to. BTDT. |
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01-23-2013, 03:41 PM
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#18 |
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WFO for 41 years
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Kensington, NH USA
Oddometer: 4,019
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Don't let the Midas crew tackle it for $750. Bring it to the GM dealer, they do a lot of them know the pitfalls, will warranty the work if they fuck up something along the way. I bet it'll be less money too.
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Too much is just barely enough..... 2007 Tiger 1050 2005 Royal Star Tour DeLuxe 1973 Yamaha TX750 1974 Norton 850 Commando Roadster |
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01-23-2013, 04:00 PM
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#19 |
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ShadeTreeExpert
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Silver Spring, Md
Oddometer: 5,229
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Sometimes the dealer is a better deal. Probably a better bet. You might get lucky at Midas but they don't do as many as GMC does. They'll give you an estimate also.
Don't try Stop Leak, please. Even the home made type. I've used it only on a car I was trying to kill anyway.
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Never memorize something you can look up. ---Albert Einstein |
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01-23-2013, 04:02 PM
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#20 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Indiana
Oddometer: 224
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Quote:
The heater is to keep the fog off the window...
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"Human beings are the only creatures on Earth that claim a God, and the only living things that behave like they haven't got one." - The Rum Diary |
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01-23-2013, 04:13 PM
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#21 |
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One wheel wonder...
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Moneyapolis, MN
Oddometer: 6,434
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Didn't work well at all on the windsheild. Oh well, only $22.
__________________
"Tough times don't last, but tough people do." Robert A. Schuler
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01-23-2013, 04:15 PM
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#22 | |
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Easily trainable
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Make sure the mechanic takes it for a test drive in valet mode afterwards to make sure all the operating parts work
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01-23-2013, 05:07 PM
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#23 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: West of Phoenix, Arizona
Oddometer: 8,698
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That's about 115 amps at 13 volts. Good luck.
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US out of the UN, UN out of the US. |
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01-23-2013, 05:59 PM
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#24 | |
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Easily trainable
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Assuming 100% inverter efficiency... Which it isn't.
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01-23-2013, 06:25 PM
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#25 |
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One wheel wonder...
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Moneyapolis, MN
Oddometer: 6,434
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![]() I'm fucked. So what gauge wire do I need, 2 gauge? Damn, should be around 0 degrees when I get out of here.
__________________
"Tough times don't last, but tough people do." Robert A. Schuler
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01-23-2013, 07:13 PM
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#26 | |
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Easily trainable
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The defroster, even on cold, should be enough to keep the windshield clear on the inside. God help you if you've got frost/ice buildup on the outside though.
As far as keeping warm goes, you've got a heated jacket, right? Plug in, turn on, and tune out!
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01-23-2013, 07:44 PM
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#27 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2010
Oddometer: 7,200
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Buy 10' of heater hose in both sizes and pipe it through the passenger window to your shiny new heater core. Strap a 12VDC fan to the side opposite the hose fittings and build a baffle out of cardboard to keep the whole thing off the floor so air can pass through. Tape up the gap in the window. That should give you plenty of heat. Do the real fix in the spring.
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01-23-2013, 07:59 PM
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#28 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 2,723
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Quote:
would have to agree with above for almost all radiator sealants, except one.... Bars Leak ... don't know about now, but years back was commonly used by several OEM on brand new motors to seal minor leaks. Sold Bars Leak for 10+ years... not one come back or complaint. installed on butt load of engines...never had a problem one... vs other types or radiator sealer... all sorts of complaints and problems... quit selling anything but Bars Leak. no sealer will do major leaks, that takes removal and fix. I'd install Bars Leak as a last resort. if it doesn't seal, then leak is too large and heater core has to come out. in the meanwhile bypass ... would be the shits operating at those temps without a defroster. never mind the heater...
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Bringing BMW R90S back to life, R80G/S, LiFePO4 testing Which is more reliable ... Points or Electronic Ignition for Airheads? _cy_ screwed with this post 01-23-2013 at 08:04 PM |
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01-23-2013, 08:31 PM
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#29 | |
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One wheel wonder...
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Moneyapolis, MN
Oddometer: 6,434
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Quote:
![]() Got a suggestion to go here and DIY... www.firstgeargarage.com Seems pretty cool! $35 an hour to use a heated space.... -4 deg F for the ride home!
__________________
"Tough times don't last, but tough people do." Robert A. Schuler
D.T. screwed with this post 01-23-2013 at 08:43 PM |
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01-24-2013, 10:38 AM
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#30 |
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here there be dragons...
Joined: Oct 2005
Location: CT via ME and CO
Oddometer: 454
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I blew a heater core in my 2001 f-150... was a $1150 job at the dealer, found a independent mechanic to do it for $800. It worked great for 6 months, and then leaked again - defective part. They warrantied the $50 part, but the $750 labor was all me, again. If it happens again, I'm headed to the nearest cliff to take care of it Thelma & Louise style...
Good luck with the repair... good thing it is not all that cold in MN in the dead of winter... oh, wait. Nevermind. |
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