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Old 01-25-2013, 10:08 AM   #1
Manuel Garcia O'Kely OP
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R1100GS front brake master cylinder....

So I gave my son my R1100GS, since I'm not using it anymore, and he's in need of a road bike.

However, the front master cylinder is leaking and the goo has also ruined the brake light switch.

I've looked thru several pages here - anyone suggest a good place to get a used, working replacement or a new one for less than the silly prices the dealer wants? It's a 1998 so it's rather an antique by BMW standards.

I see Beemer Boneyard has rebuild kits.

Any other good thoughts?
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:26 AM   #2
Pekkavee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manuel Garcia O'Kely View Post
Any other good thoughts?
Here are some.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...inder&_sacat=0

Here some more
http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_nkw=b...at=0&_from=R40

Rebuilt kit may be the best choice.

Pekka

Pekkavee screwed with this post 01-25-2013 at 10:34 AM
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:53 AM   #3
Manuel Garcia O'Kely OP
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Should have thought of e-bay. I sent him that idea.

Also, I agree that rebuild might be easier - I think he is hesitant to do something that safety-related to his bike - and I can relate to that.
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:53 AM   #4
wvrocks
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Beemer Boneyard sells complete replacements for cheaper than the dealer. Use code ADVRIDER for extra 10% off

Minor paint damage version is cheapest http://www.beemerboneyard.com/32722352190pd.html
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:39 AM   #5
Manuel Garcia O'Kely OP
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Beemer Boneyard sells complete replacements for cheaper than the dealer. Use code ADVRIDER for extra 10% off

Minor paint damage version is cheapest http://www.beemerboneyard.com/32722352190pd.html
Advrider comes thru again. And in less than a hour.

Thanks much, I sent him a copy of that link, looks like just what he needs.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:58 PM   #6
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I would start by disassembling the OE piece and determine just what is damaged or needs replacement. The switch may be OK and only need some spray cleaner and follow up with silicone spray lubricant. The leaking stuff? Sounds like the piston seal in the master cylinder needs attention. A used part may be no better that what you have currently.
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:48 PM   #7
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I would start by disassembling the OE piece and determine just what is damaged or needs replacement. The switch may be OK and only need some spray cleaner and follow up with silicone spray lubricant. The leaking stuff? Sounds like the piston seal in the master cylinder needs attention. A used part may be no better that what you have currently.
Agreed. Think we will get that cosmetic second from B. Boneyard.

Unless you can inspect the part prior to delivery eh?
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:20 PM   #8
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I just did this a short while ago... The fluid ruins the switch so I got a replacement one at Radio Shack for about $4. You just have to cut the wires at the old switch and soldier on the new switch. Even the holes were in the right place for mounting it back on.
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Old 01-27-2013, 01:44 AM   #9
Dan Căta
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The piston seal started leaking on my GS too. What I did was to take everything apart, clean the inside and put it all back together. This stopped leaking for about 3 4 months and then it started again. I replaced the piston and seal (as a kit) and it worked fine since. Sold the bike in the meantime.

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Old 01-27-2013, 03:00 PM   #10
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The 1100 mcyl was orig non-anodized inside. It is easy to tell if yours is anodized, just look in the reservoir. If the site glass shows no evidence of corrosion then you an save yourself a lot of work by removing the piston with the assembly still on the bar. The lever comes off and there is a very small bolt that retains the piston. From the outside of the m. cyl withdraw this tiny bolt and the one piece piston assembly can be removed for cleaning. There is often an accumulation of dried fluid that hinders withdrawal. Air pressure may be introduced at the banjo connection.

Often it is just the cleaning as long as the site glass is not leaking. An alcohol bottle with snake bit foil is best for cleaning.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:02 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by vintagerider View Post
The 1100 mcyl was orig non-anodized inside. It is easy to tell if yours is anodized, just look in the reservoir. If the site glass shows no evidence of corrosion then you an save yourself a lot of work by removing the piston with the assembly still on the bar. The lever comes off and there is a very small bolt that retains the piston. From the outside of the m. cyl withdraw this tiny bolt and the one piece piston assembly can be removed for cleaning. There is often an accumulation of dried fluid that hinders withdrawal. Air pressure may be introduced at the banjo connection.

Often it is just the cleaning as long as the site glass is not leaking. An alcohol bottle with snake bit foil is best for cleaning.


This worked well for me too I dismantled and cleaned mine, there was indeed an accumulation of debris, dried fluid or whatever it was. After cleaning out no leak
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:02 PM   #12
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New if you ask me

I received one of the Beemer boneyard ones that was listed as having paint issues. I had to look long and hard at it to tell it wasn't perfect. It works like a new one should.
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:15 AM   #13
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[QUOTE=vintagerider;20588281 An alcohol bottle with snake bit foil is best for cleaning.[/QUOTE]

Please elaborate....what is "snake bit foil?"
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