"Clocking" airhead drive shaft?

woodly1069 · 01-26-2013, 09:05 AM

Just wondering if I need to reassemble the drive shaft from my R75/5 in any relative position? See when we had it in the press and were heating it up, it went BOOM! Knocked my buddy on to the floor and then I fell down laughing at him

Problem is, I guess my dumb ass must have baked the markings right off the parts...

I see that there is a small hole in the largest part of the OD on the spline connection and since there is just a taper for a press fit it can line up with anything...any thoughts?

Big Bamboo · 01-26-2013, 09:55 AM

Correct, it can line up anywhere. Make sure you completely clean up the mating surfaces!

Airhead Wrangler · 01-26-2013, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Bamboo

Correct, it can line up anywhere. Make sure you completely clean up the mating surfaces!

...and whatever you use to clean make sure it evaporates completely. Assemble it clean and DRY.

woodly1069 · 01-26-2013, 01:42 PM

OK guys, how about brake clean? thanks a bunch!

boxerboy81 · 01-26-2013, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodly1069

OK guys, how about brake clean? thanks a bunch!

Then wipe it down with a white spirit which evaporates completely.

disston · 01-26-2013, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boxerboy81

Then wipe it down with a white spirit which evaporates completely.

What is a white spirit?

woodly1069 · 01-26-2013, 05:55 PM

MMM...moonshine!

Big Bamboo · 01-26-2013, 07:12 PM

Acetone will work too

jackd · 01-26-2013, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by disston

What is a white spirit?

White spirit is camp stove fuel (otherwise known as white gas or naptha). It's a good solvent which evaporates cleanly. I first started using in an aircraft component shop that I worked in - it was recommended by manufacturers.

H96669 · 01-27-2013, 02:27 PM

If you have any of them surface preparation products, to be used "before and after sanding" to remove waxes and sillycones before painting, it is also white spirits/naphta/Coleman fuel.

Yep bought some specialized Rustoleum product before I figured it out. Well figured out that I could have used my Coleman fuel would have saved me $10.00. Only had to smell the Rusto to find out.Should have done that at the store....

Someone gave me a BMW Zippo lighter....guess what's in it? Sure ain't overpriced lighter fluid aka Naphta.

woodly1069 · 01-29-2013, 07:35 AM

OK ready to go, clean and assembled. Should l attempt to "hold" the u-joint and torque the nut in place or bolt it to the transmission first? I think bolting it up makes more sense but I don't want to damage the tranny. Of couse I would hold the drive shaft while torquing...

bpeckm · 01-29-2013, 10:50 AM

Hmmm... iirc that nut takes a huge amount of torque, and I am not sure I would want to be torquing the u-joint at the other end... if you bolt up to tranny to stabilize and hold that end of the shaft, I would still immobilize the shaft somehow between the u-joint and the bell end...

Big Bamboo · 01-29-2013, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodly1069

OK ready to go, clean and assembled. Should l attempt to "hold" the u-joint and torque the nut in place or bolt it to the transmission first? I think bolting it up makes more sense but I don't want to damage the tranny. Of couse I would hold the drive shaft while torquing...

Cycle Works recommends holding the yoke that is part of the driveshaft in a vice "so that the jaws close on the flat area around the holes that the cross is in".

woodly1069 · 01-29-2013, 11:19 AM

OK, thanks guys, guess it's a good thing I haven't put it in the bike then

bpeckm · 01-29-2013, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Bamboo

Cycle Works recommends holding the yoke that is part of the driveshaft in a vice "so that the jaws close on the flat area around the holes that the cross is in".

Well done! Always good to learn a little something every day.... I can have a beer with a clear conscience later

01-26-2013, 09:05 AM	#1
woodly1069 ^OP Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jun 2008 Location: Louisville, KY...really too far from the hills! Oddometer: 1,094	"Clocking" airhead drive shaft? Just wondering if I need to reassemble the drive shaft from my R75/5 in any relative position? See when we had it in the press and were heating it up, it went BOOM! Knocked my buddy on to the floor and then I fell down laughing at him Problem is, I guess my dumb ass must have baked the markings right off the parts... I see that there is a small hole in the largest part of the OD on the spline connection and since there is just a taper for a press fit it can line up with anything...any thoughts? __________________ If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem!

01-26-2013, 09:55 AM	#2
Big Bamboo Studly Adventurer Joined: Sep 2010 Location: Big Island of Hawaii Oddometer: 816	Correct, it can line up anywhere. Make sure you completely clean up the mating surfaces! __________________ "No hour of life is wasted that is spent in the saddle." =Winston Churchill=

01-26-2013, 01:42 PM	#4
woodly1069 ^OP Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jun 2008 Location: Louisville, KY...really too far from the hills! Oddometer: 1,094	OK guys, how about brake clean? thanks a bunch! __________________ If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem!

01-26-2013, 05:55 PM	#7
woodly1069 ^OP Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jun 2008 Location: Louisville, KY...really too far from the hills! Oddometer: 1,094	MMM...moonshine! __________________ If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem!

01-26-2013, 07:12 PM	#8
Big Bamboo Studly Adventurer Joined: Sep 2010 Location: Big Island of Hawaii Oddometer: 816	Acetone will work too __________________ "No hour of life is wasted that is spent in the saddle." =Winston Churchill=

01-27-2013, 02:27 PM	#10
H96669 A proud pragmatist. Joined: Nov 2009 Location: Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C. Oddometer: 2,860	If you have any of them surface preparation products, to be used "before and after sanding" to remove waxes and sillycones before painting, it is also white spirits/naphta/Coleman fuel. Yep bought some specialized Rustoleum product before I figured it out. Well figured out that I could have used my Coleman fuel would have saved me $10.00. Only had to smell the Rusto to find out.Should have done that at the store.... Someone gave me a BMW Zippo lighter....guess what's in it? Sure ain't overpriced lighter fluid aka Naphta. __________________ Have tools, will travel!

01-29-2013, 07:35 AM	#11
woodly1069 ^OP Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jun 2008 Location: Louisville, KY...really too far from the hills! Oddometer: 1,094	OK ready to go, clean and assembled. Should l attempt to "hold" the u-joint and torque the nut in place or bolt it to the transmission first? I think bolting it up makes more sense but I don't want to damage the tranny. Of couse I would hold the drive shaft while torquing... __________________ If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem!

01-29-2013, 10:50 AM	#12
bpeckm Grin! Joined: Apr 2008 Location: Road Island Oddometer: 4,429	Hmmm... iirc that nut takes a huge amount of torque, and I am not sure I would want to be torquing the u-joint at the other end... if you bolt up to tranny to stabilize and hold that end of the shaft, I would still immobilize the shaft somehow between the u-joint and the bell end... __________________ XS650 becomes a Vermont Backroader R60/6 gets caffeinated Portsmouth RI

01-29-2013, 11:19 AM	#14
woodly1069 ^OP Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jun 2008 Location: Louisville, KY...really too far from the hills! Oddometer: 1,094	OK, thanks guys, guess it's a good thing I haven't put it in the bike then __________________ If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem!

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