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Old 04-01-2014, 02:11 PM   #286
Gliga OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelR6 View Post
well thank you... you kinda ruined my plans traveling down to croatia with my r6. now i am looking for a cheap dualsport bike to do this trip because your pictures and the paths you ride along look so freaking amazing .

ride safe and enjoy it :)
I have a solution for your problems: ride the coast and other great pavement roads on R6, then come back next year and do ADV style trip


Great to see so many people heading this way


@Svestenik
Of course I don't mind you posting that info. Original purpose of this thread was to present and popularize riding in Balkans for people who have never been here. Organizing gatherings, like you guys are doing, serves the same purpose. BTW, I hope to be there for your ride :) Eto, ispricasmo se


@kreattur
There are just so many cool places in the area, it's difficult to name only few. I'dd recommend reading this thread from start and writing down names of places that look most interesting, then let the GPS do its magic :) Just one note: it will be a mistake if you leave Montenegro out of your plans.

Contact me when your trip starts, I'dd be glad to share a ride if our timings works out
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Old 04-01-2014, 02:20 PM   #287
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Day three continued

After lake Klijne it was time to hit pavement and go to Tjentiste WWII memorial. This was first proper pavement section on this trip, after 2.5 days of mostly gravel or minor roads. Twisty and with light traffic. That first part, climbing back to Cemerno pass, put huge smile on my face... We stopped for drinks at some roadside cafe, after that it was time to visit Tjentiste and explore abandoned hotel nearby.
















There used to be a hotel in a same complex as monument. Now it stands there abandoned and totally open to visitors. Not a chance to be missed






















We refueled and bought food and beers for dinner in Foca. Our plan is to camp at lake Susicko in Durmitor National Park and this is last chance to get supplies. Road between Foca and border with Montenegro is narrow single lane and sort of busy with all organized rafting groups. We were unlucky to end up behind slow moving car almost at the beginning of that road. No room to pass and with driver being ignorant enough to move over it was frustrating 15 kilometers...

We planned to climb to Durmitor on a road which starts on no man's land between two borders. We had to check into Montenegro first, obviously. We expected that most of that road would be gravel but border guard informed us that it's mostly paved by now and that they are paving remaining few kilometers. He wasn't sure if we'dd be able to pass with bikes as construction site was in rough shape at this point...

We followed Tara river upstream for a while before starting to climb higher toward Crkveno Polje. Shadows are getting longer.




Just after Crkveno Polje pavement stops. What replaced it was worst excuse for a road I've ever seen. Old gravel road was at this point widened but surface is still unprepared and it's full of large rocks and dirt. Riding isn't difficult but it's just plain ugly. After climbing up to the plateau road condition improves and we are suddenly on perfectly smooth gravel. PJ almost crashed into a two meters deep ditch which was dug across whole road. Obstacle like that must have some warning signs, right? Well, here they used few football sized rocks, placed few meters away from a ditch from both directions. This could have ended up ugly...



Bacon's photo session.

Narrow pavement brings us to Nedajno village. From there we have some 6-7 kilometers of gravel to reach bottom of Susica river canyon and lake Susicko. Stop at the viewpoint at the edge of a canyon is mandatory before descending down. Sun is about to set and I know it will be almost dark as soon as we start riding down. Not a problem as I expect ride will take 10 minutes maximum...







Luggage racks on PJ's Africa are getting worse every day. Cases are flapping around like crazy and we ride slowly. I'm riding behind and waiting for one of two things to happen:
1. His cases fly off the bike
2. His food, which is poorly fixed to those same cases, flies off...

Step No2 occurred at some point, not compromising edibility of the food

It took forever to reach bottom of a canyon. By the time we got to the lake it was already to dark to look for firewood. We pitched our tents, had dinner, drunk those few s and just stared at stars. It takes so little for traveler to be happy...

For whatever reason I decided not to put the rain fly on a tent. By the time we went to sleep it was obvious that air is really saturated with vapor but I was to lazy to dig trough my stuff to find rain fly. It's not going to rain tonight anyway...

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Gliga screwed with this post 07-26-2014 at 02:48 PM
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Old 04-02-2014, 05:50 AM   #288
doktor dare
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Simply fantastic!
You became a real offroad/adventure/travel hero! Go on!
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Old 04-02-2014, 09:21 AM   #289
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Originally Posted by Gliga View Post
I have a solution for your problems: ride the coast and other great pavement roads on R6, then come back next year and do ADV style trip

haha, funny thing... last saturday i just bought a honda crf250l for this trip. got a really good deal on it, seat height perfect for my size - will pick it up this friday. to be honest, your thread really pushed me over the edge to look for a small "adventure" bike to start doing a bit offroad riding. i always had it in the back of my mind but never really made the step forward. i am very positive that i will not regret my purchase . just got to figure out the fuelrangeproblem as it only has a 7.7l tank which might last somewhere around 150-200km :)

and again, very nice update and thank you for your great pictures and writing
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Old 04-02-2014, 09:56 AM   #290
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haha, funny thing... last saturday i just bought a honda crf250l for this trip. got a really good deal on it, seat height perfect for my size - will pick it up this friday. to be honest, your thread really pushed me over the edge to look for a small "adventure" bike to start doing a bit offroad riding. i always had it in the back of my mind but never really made the step forward. i am very positive that i will not regret my purchase . just got to figure out the fuelrangeproblem as it only has a 7.7l tank which might last somewhere around 150-200km :)

and again, very nice update and thank you for your great pictures and writing
Welcome to adv world :) Glad to be "responsible" for your decision

150km range is more than enough in most places I have ridden. For those occasional times when you need more 2l plastic bottle is your friend :)


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Simply fantastic!
You became a real offroad/adventure/travel hero! Go on!
Thanks for the comment, appreciate it a lot
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Old 04-18-2014, 10:27 AM   #291
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It's been a while since last update :)

Day four (Durmitor NP-Tara NP)

Skies remained clear trough the night, no rain this time. However, air was so moist that everything was damp in the morning. Everything left in open that is. Stuff like sleeping bag, riding gear, helmet...

It was pointless to wait for the Sun at the bottom of a canyon so we decided to pack up, leave the canyon and wait for things to dry up there. There is great viewpoint at the edge of a canyon anyway so it will be perfect spot to have breakfast and kill some time.

PJ rearranged some of his stuff so cases were lighter. That meant we could ride at decent pace. To bad we only had to ride 6 or 7 kilometers off-road together...





Lens fogged up from sudden temperature change.








Pavement starts at the point were we climb out of canyon. 25-30 kilometers of scenic road takes us to Zabljak, tourist center of Durmitor National Park.





Tara canyon is in the background.




THE place to take a photo.


Zabljak is the only place in this area where you can get fuel and I never miss chance to refill before exploring Durmitor. We are now riding Sedlo pass, probably best known motorcycling road in Balkans. This is only place where you're almost guaranteed to meet other bikers...

There, we decided to switch bikes for a while. First time riding Africa, I'm surprised how maneuverable it is, despite being fully loaded. And the sound of aftermarket exhaust combined with V2 is just killer... Rest of the bike left little impression on me. Ergonomy was off but that's to be expected as both bikes were customized to suit owners.









Notice vertical sediment lines in the background and just try to imagine forces able to achieve that....It amazes me every time I see nature playing like this...

Descent to Piva canyon is just spectacular. Craziest road I've ever seen. Road is mostly cut into the rock face, there are numerous switchback corners, numerous tunnels and few intersections. Now, combine those elements and you end up with crazy combo. Hairpin trough a tunnel with intersection somewhere in the middle of it all...






We're following lake Pivsko toward Mratinje dam. Numerous tunnels, difference in lightning between blazing sun outside and pitch black inside is challenging for the eyes. Lake is full at this time and scenery is nice. Long break at the dam. I just love places like this. And view from 220 meters...










Time when we'd go our separate ways is almost here. From the dam we could see a parking lot down below and it looked like great place to take few more photos (shhh, don't tell anybody we were there, access is forbidden). And that's it. PJ went on to further explore Montenegro before crossing to Albania, Kosovo, Serbia, Romania... For me it was time to turn back north toward Novi Sad...

First time traveling with somebody, I have to say that I like it. It's great when there is someone to share cool moments with, camping is much more fun this way and having backup in remote areas means a lot. On the other hand it will always be a compromise. Both parties have to adjust riding style and pace, stopping for pictures, food and all that stuff.




Just few kilometers later there is a bridge across Piva. No reason to pass without stopping, staring at water rushing down below relaxes me every time...




I quickly reach border at Scepan Polje and in no time I'm back in Bosnia. Few posts earlier I wrote how narrow and ugly this road is (it is probably only narrow, twisting pavement road that I don't like. Just to much traffic for road like that). At least this time there is no traffic moving in my direction so I can ride at the pace that suits me. Pavement is slippery and in few corners I'm reminded that maybe it's time to slow down a bit. And I do just that.

I'm approaching a corner after short straight. An SUV comes from the opposite direction, mostly on my side of the road. Moment of poor judgement, I hit the brakes and move to the side of a road (I say poor judgement as there was actually enough room for me to pass but fear played its part). Braking goes great until the moment when front wheel reached gravel by the road. In next moment we're sliding... In next moment it's all over, I'm back on my feet and bike is in a ditch. Nothing hurts which is always great. SUV stopped, and so did two others. Black cars, tinted windows, suddenly I'm surrounded by 5-6 guys looking like your typical criminal from movies (huge muscles, bald head, tattoos...). Cars had Kosovo licence plates and for a second I felt like a pig in Tehran. Actually they wanted to see if I was OK and offered help in pulling the bike out. Five people made that job effortless... Before I could turn around they were all gone...

Now to see what the damage is. Bike: cracked and scratched fairings and nothing more. I spent next 20 minutes searching for a missing part of the fairing in tall grass. No luck finding it... Me: left elbow hurts a little. Sleeves of my jacket are wide so protector moved to a safer (well, safer for him) position so hand took the impact. And that's it. Helmet had one scratch and later I saw impact marks on a jacket, right at the shoulder. Protector did its job so I didn't eve feel the impact there.

First crash on pavement, no consequences worth mentioning so I'm happy. It'll take some time to regain confidence thou.

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Gliga screwed with this post 07-26-2014 at 02:39 PM
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Old 04-20-2014, 01:56 AM   #292
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Descent to Piva canyon is just spectacular. Craziest road I've ever seen. Road is mostly cut into the rock face, there are numerous switchback corners, numerous tunnels and few intersections. Now, combine those elements and you end up with crazy combo. Hairpin trough a tunnel with intersection somewhere in the middle of it all...

Do you have a coordinate for that road or could you show it on a map?

I also have some difficulties finding Sedlo Pass...

Cheers
Tonny
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Old 04-20-2014, 02:51 AM   #293
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Do you have a coordinate for that road or could you show it on a map?

I also have some difficulties finding Sedlo Pass...
http://goo.gl/maps/wzKUv

it was also one of the highlights of my own ride there last year. Very impressive. On very warm days watch out for cattle hiding from the sun in the dark tunnels

duibhceK screwed with this post 04-20-2014 at 02:58 AM
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Old 04-20-2014, 03:35 AM   #294
Gliga OP
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Do you have a coordinate for that road or could you show it on a map?

I also have some difficulties finding Sedlo Pass...

Cheers
Tonny

duibhceK is right, that is Sedlo pass (pass starts where route leaves main road following Piva river. The photo you posted was taken somewhere at the climb, when you find yourself there there's no chance to miss it ).

Enjoy your trip.
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Old 04-20-2014, 02:24 PM   #295
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Thanks guys

I'm really looking forward to explore The Balkans this summer.
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Old 04-20-2014, 02:30 PM   #296
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Old 04-20-2014, 06:03 PM   #297
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Gliga, thanks for a beautiful report. So sorry to hear about the crash as you headed back. Hope the elbow is okay! And that the bike is too. Even though you may feel now that you moved too far to the right, there is no way to know what the SUV would have done if you had not moved so far. Maybe, not seeing you, he would have moved even farther into your lane and then it would have been too late for you to avoid a collision. Hope your confidence is back, because I look forward to many more of your wonderful ride reports!
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Old 04-21-2014, 02:18 AM   #298
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Great Gilga i'll be there 5 weeks
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Old 04-21-2014, 07:11 AM   #299
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Old 04-21-2014, 12:53 PM   #300
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Thanks guys

I'm really looking forward to explore The Balkans this summer.
I can promise you'll enjoy it

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Gliga, thanks for a beautiful report. So sorry to hear about the crash as you headed back. Hope the elbow is okay! And that the bike is too. Even though you may feel now that you moved too far to the right, there is no way to know what the SUV would have done if you had not moved so far. Maybe, not seeing you, he would have moved even farther into your lane and then it would have been too late for you to avoid a collision. Hope your confidence is back, because I look forward to many more of your wonderful ride reports!
This RR is from last years rides, so confidence is back where it should be :) As I wrote, I wasn't hurt and bike suffered only cosmetic damage so there's no reason to complain. It was a cheap lesson in crashing Thanks for nice wishes, there is still a lot more riding and writing to be done.

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Great Gilga i'll be there 5 weeks
Phil
Thanks. Where do you plan to ride?
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