Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > GSpot > GS Boxers
User Name
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-27-2013, 12:12 PM   #1
Britome OP
Get Free
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Oddometer: 1,163
Air Horn Woes

I'm all about safety in defending against the rat bastards in cages. That is why I want HID intensity on every bulb possible and as high of db possible on my horn.

First I disconnected my stock horn on my 2011 GSA and bought a used stebel. I mounted the horn where the old one was and ran a hose up under the beak where the flute was mounted since the whole unit couldn't stay together with the ESA in the way.

That compressor went bad so I bought a new one and mounted the whole unit under the beak and reconnected my stock horn. It worked beautiful for a month. But the pounding of the UTBDR must have jiggled my soldering loose on the stock horn as well as doing something to the nautilus air horn.

I now have nothing from my stock horn and the air horn is at 50% of what it was. I need to go back to the drawing board to find a durable and loud solution.

What has worked for you?
Britome is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2013, 12:34 PM   #2
Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Arizona
Oddometer: 2,994
Sorry can't help you with the horn, but what kind of mount are you using for your Rigid lights?
Hikertrash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2013, 12:42 PM   #3
Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Apr 2013
Oddometer: 107
Looks like you have the Adventure with ESA. That leaves little room between the forks for anything.

I installed a Stebel as per a thread I saw here on advrider some years back. On my Adv. w/ ESA I removed the charcoal canister, which was located in a small circular space molded into the right side of the fuel tank (facing towards the forks). I then seperated the Stebel compressor from the horn and installed the compressor in the space vacated by the charcoal canister, ran a hose form the compressor to the horn, and zip-tied the horn onto the bottom of my upper crash bars. (I forget where the original thread for this install was, but if you use Google to search " stebel" I expect it will come up among the links somewhere here in Gspot. If not, it's not that hard to figure out.)

Incidentally, in just the past few days I removed my ESA suspension (the rear was leaking, it turned out), and installed a set of Wilbers I had on the shelf from an older GS. The front ESA shock is installed between the forks using the usual upper and lower shock connection points, but also a couple of brackets for the ESA part of the unit. With the ESA removed, the brackets have proved very useful for placing my HIID ballasts. (There still does not really appear to be much room for a Stebel compressor, but I did not try very hard as I already had a satisfactory installation spot.)

Also incidentally, while doing the suspension change, as well as my 24,000 service, replacing the OEM quick-releases with metal units, and a lot of other stuff, I found that my Stebel had lost a lot of its oomph, so much so that I felt it necessary to buy another (actually, a Wolo, appaarently the current iteration of the Stebel). Still, the Stebel gave good service for ~5 years in a relatively exposed position on a motorcycle that has been ridden in all weather conditions, so I can't say I'm unsatisfied. $30 or so every 5 years for a damned loud horn works for me. (More than I can say for my Twinmax, which just STB the second time I went to use it. Grrrrr.)

Good luck!

200GRLSWC screwed with this post 05-27-2013 at 03:09 PM
200GRLSWC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2013, 02:33 PM   #4
Joined: May 2012
Oddometer: 80
I've had several Stebel horns on bikes and cars. I now have a Wolo on my GS.

Mounting was really easy - I simply put it where the canister was, even using the same mounting. I tapped into the OEM horn wiring to trigger the relay, LEAVING the OEM horn in place. I then wired the Wolo from the battery (fused of course). Otherwise the CANBUS will see the resistance change and show a fault. The horns sound great together.

It makes little or zero difference that the air horn is below the seat. The results are worth it all - RESPECT, like a dumptruck or a semi!!
tom28734 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2013, 02:36 PM   #5
Britome OP
Get Free
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Oddometer: 1,163
Originally Posted by Hikertrash View Post
Sorry can't help you with the horn, but what kind of mount are you using for your Rigid lights?
I just bent some metal, drilled holes and ground down the corners for aesthetics. Then I mated up the denali light brackets and the mounts on the bar for the stock fog lights. I used the stock bolts.
Britome is offline   Reply With Quote


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Times are GMT -7.   It's 09:29 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2015