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Old 05-20-2013, 03:29 AM   #91
vintagerider
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: the west
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I have no idea why op's oil was foaming. Could be the kids gave it a drink of soda pop.
[
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallowa View Post
....do we have a PCV valve on a boxer motor? I thought there was a crankcase vent in the air box?
But hey, I could be wrong...
The rotatory crankcase vent is incorporated within in the timing case. Early 1100's had poor crankcase ventilation. In 1997 the rotary crankcase vent was improved. The spacing (1150 only) in the dual rear main seals is critical for proper crankcase ventilation. Identify and inspect the rubber crankcase vent hose located on the RS upper.

The prize for the correct answer goes to those inmates who posted what is stated in the rider's manual: Short trips define "severe duty". A motorcycle subjected to severe duty should have oil changed every 90 days or 2,000 mi which ever comes first.

Each short trip where oil temp does not reach min five bars for 30 minutes permanently degrades oil from acids. Once the acids form no amount of long dx operation is going to "fix" the spoiled oil. Premium syns neutralize more acids and allow longer change intervals but that alone does not justify their use for many.

Lets take an extreme example. Pre-1997 1100 which has both poor crankcase ventilation and no oil t-stat. Operate this model in severe duty (frequent short trips , high relative humidity) and the oil will quickly blacken and develop a foul smell. Here the use of low cost conv oil with frequent change (max time interval per manual 90 days) is preferred.

Practical easy to follow advice:
Let your nose be your guide. Oil gone bad has a nasty smell and turns black. If it could speak it would say "Leave me in here so I can have your cam followers and bearings for lunch"

Repeating the rider's manual:
Predominately short trips especially with high relative humidity drain and replace every 90 days or 2,000 miles whichever comes first. Install the proper grade based on average ambient air temperature, if below 80F typically API SF or SG 10w40 or 15w40. Ambient temp over 80F use 20w50.

Frequent flushing removes acids and conventional oil is fine. I switch to synthetic API SG 20w50 for summer. Mobil V Twin, Amsoil or BMW preferred. Anything else and I hear a racket. Use of premium syn in winter has many advantages such as faster cold lubrication (circulates faster) and claims to adhere to cams even when engine goes days or weeks between cycling. Eh, maybe but imo more important to keep the oil fresh. I clearly see the benefit of syn in summer. If I lived and rode frequently in sub-freezing climate I'd probably run syn all year but then high relative humidity would be less of an issue and 6 month interval would be fine.

Riders manual storage : If mc is to be stored, bring up to operating temp, 4-5 bars 30 minutes then drain immediately. Hot oil takes with it many more contaminants in suspension. Remove spark plugs, apply fogging oil, replace plugs. Store m up to one year. Do not start until ready to return to service.

Tip: loosen fill, drain plugs and filter while engine is cold. Especially the filter. Askin for it if you try to remove hot filter.

Best method for changing oil:
1. loosen fill, drain plugs and filter
2. ride 30 minutes at 4-5 bars RID (don't idle)
3. drain oil immediately while oil t-stat (1997- up) is still open in to clean tin, inspect for metal bits when cool
4. allow old oil to drain for several hours if possible as acidic vapors will also purge from crankcase
5. tip boxer side to side to drain all galleys
6. using new seal rings, re-install drain plug
7. !!remove old filter gasket from cavity!! wipe filter boss
8. Seafoam or similar can be used to treat sludge or condensation but will not usually be required
9. Dampen new filter seal with fresh oil. Torque with inch-pound wrench
10. refill with 3.75 U.S. qts of oil
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:16 PM   #92
def
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Originally Posted by VEGASGSA View Post
It won't offset in mileage alone but in extended drain intervals.I change mine every 10K..If you intend to change oil every few thousand, you will be wasting money using synthetics. (although I'd be happy to sell it to you.. )

Like Def, I chose diesel oil, the 15w-40 Marine and Diesel...TBN of 25
TBN of 25? are you sure?

Most name brand HDEOs 15w-40 have TBNs of about 10....some may be 12.
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:13 PM   #93
Faded Dice
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Oil foaming

I read somewhere that if you change from synthetic to mineral oil that the oil will foam, not sure though.
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:22 PM   #94
N-m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
Every single time since then I have thought it was a bit low and added oil between services, it has ended up overfilled
Well, guess what.

Been working on draining it slightly for the past week. I'll learn all this stuff one day.
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:31 PM   #95
slartidbartfast
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Originally Posted by N-m View Post
Well, guess what.

Been working on draining it slightly for the past week. I'll learn all this stuff one day.
You're overthinking this. It's really not that important as long as it's visible in the sight glass.
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:33 PM   #96
N-m
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Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
You're overthinking this. It's really not that important as long as it's visible in the sight glass.
Which is why I am draining. I overshot the site glass.
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Old 05-27-2013, 03:15 PM   #97
VEGASGSA
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Location: The Northwet..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
TBN of 25? are you sure?

Most name brand HDEOs 15w-40 have TBNs of about 10....some may be 12.
Yep..sorry def..had another thing in my head..TBN of 12 is correct o mundo..
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