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Old 01-28-2013, 11:26 AM   #1
kellymac530 OP
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Oil pressure?

I am going to have to move my oil cooler on my R1100RT on my project conversion.

I see that the oil cooler lines themselves are clamped with basic hose clamps. Is the pressure in the entire system low enough to use a hose clamp on a barbed fitting with pressure line like a trans cooler?

I am speaking about before the temperature bypass valve. I kind of need to take the line right out of the block and run hose instead of solid line.

Also, What temperature does the bypass sitch on at to run oil through the cooler? I may want to run with out the valve and just run straight through the cooler. I am a So Cal boy and rarely ride in very cold temps. Maybe just use the straight through the cooler and make a little cover for the cooler if it is really cold on a road trip?
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:55 AM   #2
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My BMW 2001 GS REProm says oil pressure is in the range of 50-85PSI. The pressure relief opens at 78PSI.

The filter by-pass opens at 21PSI delta pressure.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:27 AM   #3
kellymac530 OP
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I am not talking about a filter bypass.
I am speaking of the cooler out front. The oil lines come from top of the motor on the right side up to a valve on the steering neck. Then another line comes from the bottom of the motor on the left side up to the same valve, all with bajo fittings.

The 2 line come from that valve, again with banjo fittings, and out to each side of the oil cooler which are connected to the oil cooler with hose clamps.

I was under the impression, possibly inaccurately, that the junction block on the steering neck where the 2 lines come from the motor, and 2 line to the cooler go is a temerature switch valve that bypasses the cooler when the motor is cold so it can warm up.

That whole set up is a bit space consuming and routedin a way that does not work with my new fork set up. I was thinking of taking the 2 lines right out of the motor, one on top right and one on bottom left, and changing them to banjos with a barbed fitting and re routing the new rubber lines to a moved oil cooler somewhere that works better for my new set up.

Would that work, or is that intial 2 lines up to that valve/junction block whatever piece, under more pressure that the oil cooler itself somehow?

I do plan on riding the bike all over the place and may find myself in cold climates at time, but not normally.

possible? impossible? bad idea?

Thanks folks
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:53 PM   #4
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A hose-clamp connection will easily hold 85psi - think of a 115psi air line.

Early 1100GS's had no thermostat so you'd be ok without it.
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:55 PM   #5
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There is no appreciable restriction to make pressure in the cooler circuit. Hose clamp will easily hold

Rod
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:07 AM   #6
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Thanks folks. I appreciate it.
Sometimes you get something in your {my} head and just want some confirmation OR correction.
Now the only challenge is to find or MAKE 2 banjo fitting that size with barbed outlets.
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Old 01-30-2013, 11:36 AM   #7
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A good Hydraulic shop should be able to reuse your existing banjos. Cut the metal line down and crimp a rubber line or SS braided over that. I had stuff like that done before. Mind you they may even have new banjos in that size 12mm??? The one I deal with does they did have 12s but not the 6s I was looking for.
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Old 01-30-2013, 12:41 PM   #8
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a good hydraulic shop can make them from scratch & you would have swaged fittings. I had the local shop make brake lines for mine. I got to watch. the banjo ends come straight, with fairly long "necks". they swage on the hose & bend it to whatever angle you need. a clever guy could do the bending part pretty easy right on the bike if you didn't have a pattern.
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:20 PM   #9
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You said the magic word Beez...clever...That is not me...bold maybe, daring probably, clever-never

But yes, my local AP does have a pressure hose swag press. The may have the fittings I need or can get them.

I was thinking of taking the stock line on the left side and shortening it and clamping on a line, but my concern was that the metal line is very smooth and slick. In the past on medium pressure lines I have taken my tubing flaring tool and just put a very small flare on the end of a line to give the hose and clamp something bite on to. Maybe I will try that.
I am aware that too big of a flare will actually dig into the hose and eventually cut it, but no more than a barbed fitting will if I keep the flare small.

The right side fitting is a swagged banjo, so worst case scenario I know I can cut off the clamp off and use the existing barbed banjo underneath...

Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:00 PM   #10
scooteraug02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H96669 View Post
A good Hydraulic shop should be able to reuse your existing banjos. Cut the metal line down and crimp a rubber line or SS braided over that. I had stuff like that done before. Mind you they may even have new banjos in that size 12mm??? The one I deal with does they did have 12s but not the 6s I was looking for.
Some one mentioned on another thread that diesel shops can make all kinds of stainless steel lines.
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:55 PM   #11
H96669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooteraug02 View Post
Some one mentioned on another thread that diesel shops can make all kinds of stainless steel lines.
Aeroquip....been around for a very long time. A S....load of that in my friend's shop, used to be an old logging truck/equipment repair shop. And another s...load where I work. Sorry all too big and not metric.

I know you can buy DIY kits mostly for brake lines and from overseas, wouldn't be too DOT approved this side of the pond. And also that the very very hard to find 6mm for clutch slaves are also available over there somewhere.Overseas as in England...not China. Someone on another forum is waiting for his setup to show up for an SS braided clutch line. Don't know however if they have such for 12mm.

Through there:
http://stores.ebay.com/uptheshop

And from there:

http://www.venhill.co.uk/
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