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Old 02-04-2013, 08:53 AM   #16
DoWorkSon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
It would hold up just fine, but it would make for a 40K motorcycle, if you could get the parts.
I figured the impacts from off-road riding would just snap carbon fiber, but I am no expert on how well it would hold up....

A carbon fiber swingarm, airbox, and tank would definitely reduce some weight, but yeah, your talking about $15k....

How about hacking off the passenger pegs? Those would net you a few pounds, especially if you dont ride 2-up
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Old 02-04-2013, 11:55 AM   #17
shashankmittal
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I have been researching about the same, how to make the 800GS lighter. The first thing that anyone can do in all honesty is to get rid of all the Touratech/other billet accessories. Seriously, they make a heavy bike obese really fast!

Now from the practical standpoint, would I do it? No. I want the protection offered by the crash parts and even if it makes the bike heavy, so be it. As others have pointed out, the best mods you can do to reduce weight is:
1. Full Titanium exhust, should shave off at least 20lbs. Extremely expensive though.
2. Lightweight Lithium Ion battery like Shorai, etc. Should shave off about 6-8lbs.
3. You can calculate the distance you'll be off-roading and fill only the necessary amount of gas in your tank. This will however work only for short trips or when you'll not too far away from civilization.
4. Remove the panniers and luggage racks when you're not carrying luggage.
5. If you often carry a fuel jog (like Rotopax etc), try mounting it towards the center and low. This will keep the center of gravity close to stock and your bike won't act funny.
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:08 PM   #18
ebrabaek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoWorkSon View Post
I figured the impacts from off-road riding would just snap carbon fiber, but I am no expert on how well it would hold up....

A carbon fiber swingarm, airbox, and tank would definitely reduce some weight, but yeah, your talking about $15k....

How about hacking off the passenger pegs? Those would net you a few pounds, especially if you dont ride 2-up
That is actually not a bad idea, as they are made from heavy gauge steel. Hmmmmmm....... Yet again, I could loose a few myself...
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:32 PM   #19
LJRAT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMusedRider View Post
LJRAT, what did you have to do to shave off 22lbs?
1. Started lighter than most to begin with, me ain't got no stinking ABS. Less weight, less filling, less get-offs! -5.5#s
2. I don't ever, ever, EVER, Did I say Ever, ride two up so ditched the rear sets completely = -7#s
3. Tubeless wheel conversion complete with TI fasteners and wave-weight-bye-bye rotors= 6#s
4. TI axles - 2#s
5. Me make-em TI rack for back. -7#s
6. Stupid bits and piece never used. -1.5#s
7. Ohlins shock. -2.2#s
8. Me no gots kitty-CAT or fat pig exhaust pipe. -7.2#s
9. Bar conversion -1#
10. Battery change -2#s

Roughly 40#s

But added back 18#s in guards and lever guards

So about 20 something in savings. Choice of tires can really improve the wheel weights also.
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:35 AM   #20
JRWooden
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LJ:

Which brand rotors did you use?

I have one that's got to be replaced anyway, so might as well save a pound or two if I can ...
Is there any reduction in durability that you are aware of?

Thanks for any tips!
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:36 AM   #21
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJRAT View Post
1. Started lighter than most to begin with, me ain't got no stinking ABS. Less weight, less filling, less get-offs! -5.5#s
2. I don't ever, ever, EVER, Did I say Ever, ride two up so ditched the rear sets completely = -7#s
3. Tubeless wheel conversion complete with TI fasteners and wave-weight-bye-bye rotors= 6#s
4. TI axles - 2#s
5. Me make-em TI rack for back. -7#s
6. Stupid bits and piece never used. -1.5#s
7. Ohlins shock. -2.2#s
8. Me no gots kitty-CAT or fat pig exhaust pipe. -7.2#s
9. Bar conversion -1#
10. Battery change -2#s

Roughly 40#s

But added back 18#s in guards and lever guards

So about 20 something in savings. Choice of tires can really improve the wheel weights also.
Are these actual weighed numbers since you are being so precise with decimals? Nice work if you did!

Very surprised at -7 lbs for ditching the passenger pegs and mounts, the whole subframe is around 14 lbs...
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:40 AM   #22
shashankmittal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJRAT View Post
1. Started lighter than most to begin with, me ain't got no stinking ABS. Less weight, less filling, less get-offs! -5.5#s
2. I don't ever, ever, EVER, Did I say Ever, ride two up so ditched the rear sets completely = -7#s
How did you remove the passenger pegs? Cut them off with a saw? how did you plug the holes in the subframe?
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:46 AM   #23
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shashankmittal View Post
How did you remove the passenger pegs? Cut them off with a saw? how did you plug the holes in the subframe?
There won't be any holes, they are just tubes butt welded onto the diagonal down tube. I've also modified a spare subframe without peg mounts, ground them off with an angle grinder, then a sanding disc and finally had the down tubes repainted.

No change of structural strength, in fact it will now hold up much better to crashing without bending because the tube is completely unsupported where the mounts are welded on.

Will have to weigh mine and compare it with a stocker to see if it's really 7 lbs.
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:53 AM   #24
shashankmittal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
There won't be any holes, they are just tubes butt welded onto the diagonal down tube. I've also modified a spare subframe without peg mounts, ground them off with an angle grinder, then a sanding disc and finally had the down tubes repainted.

No change of structural strength, in fact it will now hold up much better to crashing without bending because the tube is completely unsupported where the mounts are welded on.

Will have to weigh mine and compare it with a stocker to see if it's really 7 lbs.
Could you please upload the pics of your subframe? I would love to see how it looks!
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:31 AM   #25
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shashankmittal View Post
Could you please upload the pics of your subframe? I would love to see how it looks!
Sure thing, if you are that excited to see it!






I've had to repair too many bikes where this happened after a simple tip-over. It really is a bad design, just like the upper shock mount...

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Old 02-05-2013, 11:20 AM   #26
DoWorkSon
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How did you remove the passenger pegs?

What did you do to cap the open area? Just grind down to subframe and smooth off?
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:30 AM   #27
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoWorkSon View Post
How did you remove the passenger pegs?

What did you do to cap the open area? Just grind down to subframe and smooth off?
I have answered those exact questions above...
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:44 PM   #28
DoWorkSon
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Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
I have answered those exact questions above...
Sorry, missed that post. Thanks!
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:13 PM   #29
LJRAT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Are these actual weighed numbers since you are being so precise with decimals? Nice work if you did!

Very surprised at -7 lbs for ditching the passenger pegs and mounts, the whole subframe is around 14 lbs...
Actual weights from scale at work
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:16 PM   #30
LJRAT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
LJ:

Which brand rotors did you use?

I have one that's got to be replaced anyway, so might as well save a pound or two if I can ...
Is there any reduction in durability that you are aware of?

Thanks for any tips!
Got a deal on Braking wave rotors
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