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Old 03-13-2013, 06:27 AM   #136
Xtremjeepn OP
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Originally Posted by Maccoul View Post
Did you pull your main bearing caps? How much end play on the crank? Check your thrust bearing. Your in that far, seems silly not to at least pull the caps and check
I didn't have the time yesterday to pull the mains. Partly because the front one isn't accessible without at least disassembling all of the accessory drive. There is a front side engine cover that covers the front main cap bolts.
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:02 PM   #137
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Eh?

I got a call from a lady down in Colorado Springs that needed some help. She bought a GLS that was converted to a Poptop. It came with an interior but she had no idea how to install it.

The conversion was not that great and the van had some other issues (van is green, top is blue)

She had been driving it for about a year basically with a bare steel cargo van interior and desperately needed to make is a more functional van for her family.

She called me because I had done the conversion. I offered to help if she would bring it up to me. So this 50 ish year old lady and her 70 ish year old dad. Showed up to my house with a van FULL of misc interior parts.

Long story short.......the fasted way to get here a functional van with the parts she and I had available was to assemble the GLS lower panels and the upper Poptop panels.

Sold her my GLS middle seats/mounts, side panels, a tail light, and a bunch of misc stuff. Then the three of us spent 5 laughter filled hours assembling the van for her.

At 1 am she finally had a 95% complete van ready to drive her family on a trip next week. (No carpet yet as she will need the GLS carpet and we didn't have the time to disassemble my van to get mine out)

In the execution of the deal I ended up with a few parts she couldn't/didn't want to use but I needed. Picked up all sorts of little things like a rear florescent light, complete weekender floor that I can cover in vinyl, etc, etc. Once I have the weekender floor installed I told her she could have my GLS carpet.



That was enough to kickstart some of my interest to work on my own van again today. Which was perfect timing as one of the two back ordered seat swivels was on my porch.

Figured having a little easy success is always a good motivator. So I installed the one seat swivel. Sorry for the bad picture. It's on on jack stands in the back of the garage.



After the seat install I got more ambitious but was running out of time. I got to take the oil pump off and checked just two of the rod bearings with plastigauge.

The crank surface isn't "perfect" but it also doesn't have groves you can feel so not really sure what to do with it.

Here was the measurement of the two rods I checked. Looks to be about 0.66mm out of spec.



The bearings themselves look pretty bad. So the question is.....what are the odds I can install just new bearings and get some reasonable life out of the motor?

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Old 03-19-2013, 07:14 PM   #138
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You may be able to smooth the surface of the crank with some crocus cloth. Can you maybe get oversized bearings to take up the difference. Some newer cars had rod specific bearings. I forget whether it was by a mark on the block or crank. Maybe a stamping or paint marks. Been awhile. Possible your engine ran dry or oil pump failure?
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:18 PM   #139
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Thanks for the tip.

Assuming most of the wear is on the bearing side and not the rod then stock replacement bearings would take up the slack. My understanding it there really is only one size available for this.
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:33 PM   #140
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I think I'd head to the closest machine shop and discuss it with them.

For sure, you can purchase the correct polishing cloth that they use to polish crankshafts.

I'm thinking the crank will suffer minimal wear and that the bearings are the sacrificial part. If you could order a set of standard size bearings to plastiguage and still return if the specs don't jive, that's what I'd do. I don't know that simply checking them for clearance qualifies as being used. Maybe, the machine shop will have some ideas. I've heard of people just changing out the bearings, without machining the crank. OTR semi-tractors are done this way, all the time.

"NDEBT" and "Bueller" are over in the automotive thread and are both current mechanics. You may PM them or post up a link over there with the question.
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:33 PM   #141
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A quick check showed this.


http://www.techtonicstuning.com/main...oducts_id=1043
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:46 PM   #142
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Thanks.
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:54 PM   #143
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See if you can borrow a mic in the proper size for the rod journals and check the measurement against the spec to see if you're missing too much metal. Plastigauge is OK for checking mating parts, but not so good if you don't know if either side is in spec. Borrowing the mic will be easier and faster than doing a bunch of bearing swaps and continually retorquing the bearing caps. Since the bearings didn't spin, the big ends of the rods should be OK, so you won't have to worry about that.

Hopefully a quick, light polish and a set of new standard bearings will get you by for awhile. You do know the shoelace method for polishing with crocus cloth, right?
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:00 PM   #144
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See if you can borrow a mic in the proper size for the rod journals and check the measurement against the spec to see if you're missing too much metal.
Don't know why/how I didn't think of that. Carry on!
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:26 PM   #145
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Thanks for all the tips guys, keep it up.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:04 AM   #146
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Okay, here is my thinking this morning.

Let me know what you guys think.

I've had a hard time finding a reasonably priced replacement motor or diesel for a swap at this point. New long blocks are insanely priced at around $6k

This motor was horribly sludged with varnish when I got it. I'm sure that is what caused the timing gear issue. That combined with running a bunch of SeaFoam through it to clean up the varnish may have cleaned enough varnish off the rest of the parts to "free them up" allowing the bearings to rattle or wear a bit more with the sludge/varnish and SeaFoam floating around in it.

With the too and bottom of the motor open I can flush the rest of the system out pretty well to get the microscopic flakes of metal out. (Almost impossible to see with the naked eye they were so small) Most was in the pan anyway.

I'll put a micrometer on the rod journals to make sure they are round and within a usable spec. Then polish them.

Then install the appropriate sized bearings. May just change out the cam bearings too since I have access to them. We will have to see what they look like.

This is all assuming the main journal bearings are still "good enough" I will at least remove the caps I have access to and look.

This *should* make for a fairly reliable motor again if all the measurement work out.

I'll also clean up the pan and clean out the oil pump.

Then.....I can start collecting parts for a a diesel swap a bit more slowly.

Thoughts?
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:25 AM   #147
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Sounds like a safe, reasonable approach.

$6K long-block!!!! You're a smart dude, you can do that yourself for much, much cheaper.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:19 AM   #148
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Might as well do rings and valves while your at it…
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:20 AM   #149
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With the too and bottom of the motor open I can flush the rest of the system out pretty well to get the microscopic flakes of metal out.
I would be worried about the metal in the oil galleries. I'd pull the engine the rest of the way out, finish disassembly, and at a minimum remove the gallery plugs and thoroughly flush the galleries. Then you can inspect and measure everything (oil pump internal clearance may have been compromised by a diet of metal shavings, for example), replace anything that's clearly worn, and put it back together with some confidence that it won't do this to you again two blocks down the road on your shakedown run.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:22 AM   #150
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Might as well do rings and valves while your at it…
That's what I would do, but OP may be on a budget. I'd at least inspect the rings and make sure there aren't shavings embedded in the lands.
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