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Old 06-14-2013, 01:14 PM   #331
Xtremjeepn OP
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Originally Posted by troidus View Post
Well it's clearly junk and you're just throwing good money after bad. I'll give you $200 for it.

Public libraries used to have factory service manuals with schematics.
I totally agree! Total junk!

But there are only like 4 old parts left......no.....seriously!


I've come to the conclusion that everything works in the charging system, it just doesn't work
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:05 PM   #332
troidus
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Originally Posted by Xtremjeepn View Post
I've come to the conclusion that everything works in the charging system, it just doesn't work
I hate it when that happens. You did say you're blowing fuses, though, so maybe you've pinched the engine harness somewhere in the course of doing the engine swap.
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:18 PM   #333
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What is the condition of the battery?
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:28 PM   #334
Xtremjeepn OP
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We're at the point if WTMFF...... Itty... Fing..... F....... Of

Battery... Tested good
Alternator... Tested good
Replaced the $100 voltage regulator for the hell of it
Went totally zombie apocalypse overkill on the grounds
Exciter wire, dash light, etc tested good.

So...... In short...... . Every individual component tests good, every system tests good........ And....... It doesn't work
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Old 06-14-2013, 07:21 PM   #335
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Has it charged properly since the new motor?
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Old 06-14-2013, 08:21 PM   #336
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Has it charged properly since the new motor?
No idea if it ever charged properly The alternator puts out some charge above 3k rpm (not 14.4 volts, more like 13) So, it gets charged, but......the hot days with the AC running and slower traffic speeds eats up the battery faster than it charges and the van won't start.
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:21 PM   #337
troidus
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Sounds like it's time for some static tests with an ammeter. Put the lead inline with the battery + and turn the key on with no accessory loads and see how many amps are being drawn. Shouldn't be much, unless you have DRLs that can't be turned off.

If you see a several-amp draw with only the instrument cluster, start pulling fuses until the draw drops and figure out where the current is going. If things look normal, start turning on accessories until you see your energy hog pop up.

My guess is that the charging circuit is normal, but you have an abnormal load that's overwhelming the system.
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:27 PM   #338
Mrmerlin
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Cole what was the last thing you fixed?
when did you notice the charging system was an issue?

A normal working system should be putting out over 13.5v to charge the battery, less that that at 1500 RPM will indicate a blown diode,
Your system may run a bit higher at 14.2 V

Before you go too crazy you need a wire diagram for your van,
this way you can test the system in a methodical manner and find a solution.

You also need to charge the battery with a 6 amp charger for atleast 3 hours

Based on the symptoms you have a loose or broken connection between the battery and the alternator,
so, disconnect the battery
and follow the thick red wire from the battery to the starter,
then the alternator,
then the fuse panel,
and the ignition switch.

Pay careful attention to your other wiring/ short issues as they will most likely be related
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:18 PM   #339
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Thumb

Ever have one of those brilliant moments where you realize you're an idiot?

After having everything including the diodes tested in the alternator again this morning by the alternator shop something dawned one me about one of my tests.

My 20 year old test light was broken so I splurged the other day mid testing and bought a new one in a rush for $6 at the auto parts store. I used it to test and try to excite the alternator into action with no luck.

Anyone want to guess why it didn't work?








.









.










.










It dawned on me this morning that the new test light is probably an LED inside instead of an incandescent bulb and won't provide enough resistance to "excite" the alternator. Went home and made a new exciter wire bypass out of an old KLR650 license plate light( who needs those on a KLR anyway?) Well, this time it worked. Alternator started putting out 13.6v. Sill not the 14.4 I would like to see but it was a major step in the right direction.

The wire harness plastic cover from the alternator to the battery area has been taped up with electrical tape in the past. So obviously someone has been in there for some reason. Not sure what they did yet. I'm guessing some sort of bypass. I may even be connected to the 12v power outlet circuit I mentioned earlier. Which would explain why it doesn't work if this circuit is grounding somewhere. What I don't get yet is why the dash light works exactly like it should. Guess I will find out when I tear the harness apart to try to fix this right. I the mean time I may bypass it myself to a different circuit to make the van usable.
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:22 PM   #340
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Good for you!
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:35 PM   #341
troidus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtremjeepn View Post
It dawned on me this morning that the new test light is probably an LED inside instead of an incandescent bulb and won't provide enough resistance to "excite" the alternator. Went home and made a new exciter wire bypass out of an old KLR650 license plate light( who needs those on a KLR anyway?) Well, this time it worked. Alternator started putting out 13.6v. Sill not the 14.4 I would like to see but it was a major step in the right direction.
Have to say that that probably wouldn't have occurred to me.

Quote:
The wire harness plastic cover from the alternator to the battery area has been taped up with electrical tape in the past. So obviously someone has been in there for some reason. Not sure what they did yet. I'm guessing some sort of bypass. I may even be connected to the 12v power outlet circuit I mentioned earlier. Which would explain why it doesn't work if this circuit is grounding somewhere. What I don't get yet is why the dash light works exactly like it should. Guess I will find out when I tear the harness apart to try to fix this right. I the mean time I may bypass it myself to a different circuit to make the van usable.
Just for grins, you should call VW to ask how much a new harness is. Maybe they've been asked to get them out of inventory and they'll let you have it for $200.
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Old 06-17-2013, 03:42 PM   #342
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Originally Posted by troidus View Post
Just for grins, you should call VW to ask how much a new harness is. Maybe they've been asked to get them out of inventory and they'll let you have it for $200.
"I'll take 2 please."
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:48 AM   #343
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I'm seriously about to toss this whole van in the trash. I can't even begin to explain how frustrated I have become with this electrical issue, that makes the van undriveable!!

I would be open to ANY ideas.

Here is the current list of facts.

-Alternator has been tested 3 times now. Twice by an alternator shop that has been in business for over 40 year! (so please quit sending me emails or comments about "how or who tested the alternator" ) They have checked EVERY function of the alternator and it tests GOOD!! 14.4 volts even under load!

Despite being good the first time I put a brand new voltage regulator (includes new brushes) in. Still tests good!

-Alternator won't charge in the car. Period. It only ever shows batter voltage. For a brief moment I could kick start it with a test light but that no longer works.

-Battery light has always functioned normally. (lights with the key then shuts off after starting the car) until today. I tried jumping 12v to the blue exciter wire which must of done something. Since now I get a steady battery light with the blue exciter wire hooked up, but the light functions normally with the exciter wire unplugged from the alternator. Which seem to make no sense.

I've started each day with a fully charged battery. Charge it with my Battery Tender until the light is green. Battery is new and tests good.

I've examined the harness now in detail and there appears to not be a single flaw in it. It just doesn't FNing work!!!

All fuses test good except for the one running back to the rear 12v outlets.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:38 AM   #344
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I may have nothing constructive to offer, except provide you compassion and understanding... Been down this road, been down this path; and it's not good. Walk away from it, and get back to it when you are less emotional about it. This is is how electrical fires are started.

Now, onto your problem....
The only thing I can think of... CANBUS is controlling your alternator. Well not really, but it may be providing analog signal for the alternator to kick in. Do you have a way to check the signal? Digital Oscilloscope and Ohm meter? The signal may have been in shut open position -- either because the van is thinking a condition is met, sensor down, or physical connectivity problem.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:55 AM   #345
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Are you testing with a dvom? you should have 12 volts on the exciter wire with the key on eng off. The exciter comes from the light and when the alt is not charging it acts as a ground and completes the ckt turning the light on in the dash. When the alt starts charging it puts 12 volts back on that ckt and with no groung path the light goes out. I would voltage drop test that ckt as well as the b+ to battery. Also this may sound dumb but make sure the belt is not slipping. if you have voltage everywhere and for puppies and rainbows with everything hooked up start the motor then tap the alt like you would a bad starter and see if it starts charging.
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