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Old 06-18-2013, 12:57 PM   #346
Xtremjeepn OP
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Originally Posted by a1fa View Post
I may have nothing constructive to offer, except provide you compassion and understanding... Been down this road, been down this path; and it's not good. Walk away from it, and get back to it when you are less emotional about it. This is is how electrical fires are started.

I dug out one of my other (Successful) projects to go beat on for a bit this morning. Came back a bit more refreshed. (and thankfully without a ticket)

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Originally Posted by a1fa View Post
Now, onto your problem....
The only thing I can think of... CANBUS is controlling your alternator. Well not really, but it may be providing analog signal for the alternator to kick in. Do you have a way to check the signal? Digital Oscilloscope and Ohm meter? The signal may have been in shut open position -- either because the van is thinking a condition is met, sensor down, or physical connectivity problem.
I've thought about this and have come up empty. I have a VAG-COM (Volkswagen Audi Group Communications) set up. I dug through it a bunch looking for any signs, signals, etc. Nothing. I can see the voltage and that is about it.

One of the issues I've been having is that various places(in the rest of the world but not the USA vans) refer to an alternator exciter circuit relay. They say it is in "Position 53" The positions labeled on schematics and under the relays themselves don't go as high as 53, the relays themselves are labeled "53". Look at the picture and you can see why this hasn't been helpful so far.

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Old 06-18-2013, 01:01 PM   #347
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Thanks.

I only get about 2.44v with the engine off/key on at the exciter wire.

Belt is brand new and tight. Changed it with the engine.



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Originally Posted by Maccoul View Post
Are you testing with a dvom? you should have 12 volts on the exciter wire with the key on eng off. The exciter comes from the light and when the alt is not charging it acts as a ground and completes the ckt turning the light on in the dash. When the alt starts charging it puts 12 volts back on that ckt and with no groung path the light goes out. I would voltage drop test that ckt as well as the b+ to battery. Also this may sound dumb but make sure the belt is not slipping. if you have voltage everywhere and for puppies and rainbows with everything hooked up start the motor then tap the alt like you would a bad starter and see if it starts charging.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:04 PM   #348
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I would be looking at that. If you ground that wire your light should come on and you should have 12 volts if the Mitchel diagram is correct.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:17 PM   #349
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I would be looking at that. If you ground that wire your light should come on and you should have 12 volts if the Mitchel diagram is correct.

Yeah. So the light on the dash comes on when I ground the exciter wire. It always has.


Now this morning something changed. The light on the dash stays on when the exciter wire is plugged into the alternator. So I don't know if I have a new issue with the alternator now after all this testing and jumping wires. It was fine until today.
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:22 PM   #350
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Check that wire for a short to ground if you have not already hopefully its a dead short and you will have a place to narrow down the hunt
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:56 PM   #351
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Your new Audi Steering wheel is sucking too much juice...
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:11 AM   #352
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Your new Audi Steering wheel is sucking too much juice...
Wrong van. The Audi wheel belongs to Hodakaguy.
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:44 AM   #353
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Laugh

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Wrong van. The Audi wheel belongs to Hodakaguy.



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Old 06-19-2013, 08:05 AM   #354
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Whoops. Too many cool rigs around here to keep track of.
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:13 AM   #355
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Thumb

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Whoops. Too many cool rigs around here to keep track of.


I understand! ......and I want them all damn it!
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:42 AM   #356
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Whoops. Too many cool rigs around here to keep track of.


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Old 06-19-2013, 03:43 PM   #357
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^^^ Awesome!
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:08 PM   #358
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Cole the 53 relays are all the same that said,
you need to find the relay position for the alternator,
your wire diagram should tell you where this is
You should b a able to remove the relay and check the individual pins that feed the relay to see if they are all connected.

NOTE the 928 has "53" relays as well
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:46 PM   #359
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Cole the 53 relays are all the same that said,
you need to find the relay position for the alternator,
your wire diagram should tell you where this is
You should b a able to remove the relay and check the individual pins that feed the relay to see if they are all connected.

NOTE the 928 has "53" relays as well
Duh I do realize that Stan. I just kept getting PMs from people looking at various diagrams somewhere and telling me it was "Position 53", which Is obviously not true.


Most of the diagrams people were looking at were for 1993 and/or European only vans.

Here is the one for my van, I'm sure you will see the problem with it. It only lists 4 relays of a possible 17 and my van has 10 slots filled.

Now, it you read the chart it says to see the "fittings locations" and I have yet to get anyone to send me that.

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Old 06-25-2013, 01:28 PM   #360
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Okay....a little update.


I found a 120 Amp alternator for a 12v VR6 used on Craigslist. The guy wanted $80.....and we settled on $50!......

The van had been charging fine at highway speeds so I figured I would drive it the 20 miles of freeway to go pick up the alternator. FAIL.....I made it to about 2 miles from the guys house and was all out of battery power....dead on the side of the freeway with cars passing by at 80 mph. DOH!!

Luckily, the guy was nice enough to run the alternator out to me, where I swapped it on the side of the road. Its a bit ridiculous that I can do 10min roadside alternator changes at this point....ugh....I gave the guy $60 total for being a sport and rescuing me. That is the 3rd time this van has stranded me so far.....DOH!

It cured the issue!!!!!! I'm not even going to get into how frustrating it is to think "I should replace this alternator while I have the motor out" then find out that it is $500 and nearly impossible to get. So I have it tested and it tests "good".....3X.....by "experts"!!!!? Ugh....


Technically I still don't have the right one in this van since this one is a 120 amp and my stock one is a 150 amp. Since I have it running at the moment that will buy me some time to order a custom 200 amp version!! HA!

In the meantime I decided it would be good to add a house battery to this van since it did not come with one. Today was just finding a spot to mount it and running some wires. This is in the back next to the AC unit. The stock location under the drivers seat is now too short since I added a seat swivel to it. Won't fit under the hood due to ABS brakes. I'm off in a few minutes to find a proper battery box to mount this in.



Today this is just wired in parallel with the stock battery so that they will both charge. Later today or tomorrow I will start to wire all the power outlets and house lighting to the house battery and isolate it from the chassis battery.

Something like this.


Eventually adding Solar to it something like this.



Pictures stolen from this thread.
How to make a cheap isolated dual battery setup
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