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Old 03-12-2013, 11:47 AM   #121
Xtremjeepn OP
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Eek

I was having evil thoughts about trying to fit these to the Eurovan last night

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Old 03-12-2013, 11:59 AM   #122
Abenteuerfahrer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtremjeepn View Post
I was having evil thoughts about trying to fit these to the Eurovan last night

But WHY ???? Got any warps with the current ones....overheatings ???

Just replaced my fronts because of warps and 120k originals..by buying a total package(German OEM) from Europarts/SD for $200.

Just curious

Cheers...
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:01 PM   #123
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Wink

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Originally Posted by Abenteuerfahrer View Post
But WHY ????

Cheers...

Cause they were laying there
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:03 PM   #124
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My "daily driver" needed replacement rotors and pads! Which is what those are from Once the brake pad warning light came on I figured it best to make sure the daily driver was up and running first before continuing my work on the van.
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:41 PM   #125
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On my 02 EV MV Weekender, I ran for at least 10,000 miles after the brake pad warning light came on. I checked the pad thickness every time I rotated the tires and finally did the brakes after replacing the tires with the Nokian Entyre. There was still about 3/32 of an inch of material on the thinest pad.

Next time I am going to get pads without the indicator wiring and just make some jumpers to keep the light off.
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:27 PM   #126
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Wicked

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On my 02 EV MV Weekender, I ran for at least 10,000 miles after the brake pad warning light came on. I checked the pad thickness every time I rotated the tires and finally did the brakes after replacing the tires with the Nokian Entyre. There was still about 3/32 of an inch of material on the thinest pad.

Next time I am going to get pads without the indicator wiring and just make some jumpers to keep the light off.

FWIW, its easier a to just cut the wires for the existing pad sensors and wrap them together. (Leaving the pigtail plugged in) No jumper to fall out or fab and easy to go back to sensors if you want.

I disabled this feature on my track car (the 951) and on my old Audi S4 when I switched to Stoptechs. Not all race quality pads come with the provision for the sensors.

That said. I had 108k. Miles of use on the pads and rotors so I just replaced them all and put new sensors in. No reason to delete them on a daily use car. I used a complete Powerstop pad and rotor kit and it came with new sensors anyway.
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:35 PM   #127
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Question

Okay, I got about an 1.5 hours of work in on the van and need some input from you guys.

Drained the oil and it was VERY silver and metallic looking.

Every rod has some play to it. I can "fairly easily" wiggle the rods back and forth, but no noticable up/down movement. There was no obvious single rod problem.

I pulled the bearing caps off a few of the "looser" rods and found some scoring on the rod bearings but the crank looks perfectly polished.

Here was the worst of the group. (I was going to measure them but A) couldn't find the stock spec and B) the batteries in my calipers were dead)

Thoughts on this?

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Old 03-12-2013, 07:09 PM   #128
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Looks like it ran dry for a bit. Don't suppose there was any coolant contamination? I'd run some plastigauge in there to get a base line measurement.
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:38 PM   #129
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No coolant contamination.
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:46 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterMarine View Post
On my 02 EV MV Weekender, I ran for at least 10,000 miles after the brake pad warning light came on. I checked the pad thickness every time I rotated the tires and finally did the brakes after replacing the tires with the Nokian Entyre. There was still about 3/32 of an inch of material on the thinest pad.

Next time I am going to get pads without the indicator wiring and just make some jumpers to keep the light off.
Hi Mastermarine...

How do you like the Nokian eNTYRE ? Did the same on my 02 EuroVan Winnebago Camper, put on the 225/60-16. 102H XL. So far so good with 7600 miles on them but need a better toe in/out!

cheers..
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:50 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtremjeepn View Post
Okay, I got about an 1.5 hours of work in on the van and need some input from you guys.

Drained the oil and it was VERY silver and metallic looking.

Every rod has some play to it. I can "fairly easily" wiggle the rods back and forth, but no noticable up/down movement. There was no obvious single rod problem.

I pulled the bearing caps off a few of the "looser" rods and found some scoring on the rod bearings but the crank looks perfectly polished.

Here was the worst of the group. (I was going to measure them but A) couldn't find the stock spec and B) the batteries in my calipers were dead)

Thoughts on this?

Seems like Oil didn't get in there very well. Check oil passages! Or previous poor oil change history??

cheers...
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:33 PM   #132
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Ugh. Slop and scoring is never good. You saw oil being pumped to the head, so the pump itself is spinning, but whether it's getting everywhere it needs to go remains to be seen. Have you cut the filter open yet to see if it came apart? Maybe some media tore loose and clogged a passage.
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:42 PM   #133
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I was having evil thoughts about trying to fit these to the Eurovan last night

I think you need to work more on go than whoa for now.
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:53 PM   #134
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Eek

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Originally Posted by troidus View Post
I think you need to work more on go than whoa for now.

Details details.


I can pull the filter next.

Rod bearings are only $58 so I'm considering trying to get buy with just new bearings for the moment. I'll probably pull the oil pump apart and the cam adjusters and make sure there is not something clogged in there somewhere.
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Old 03-13-2013, 03:21 AM   #135
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Did you pull your main bearing caps? How much end play on the crank? Check your thrust bearing. Your in that far, seems silly not to at least pull the caps and check
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