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02-06-2013, 06:28 AM
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#61 | |
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GS09
Joined: Jan 2012
Location: ohio
Oddometer: 233
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02-06-2013, 07:04 AM
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#62 | |
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Adventurer
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: CenTex
Oddometer: 93
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I've read wiring the light directly to the battery can have positive effects. Especially if there are a lot of other electronic toys installed. I recommend what others have suggested in getting a pair of driving lights or just bright led lights and put a dimmer on it to tone it down when around others at night. And just to be clear I'm not a Harper for legality issues. I drive over 100 on back roads when no one is around like anyone else. (Everyone else does this too right?) It's just bothersome that these kits are sold as if they are legal and I believe do more harm than good. BUT if you acknowledge that it isn't a direct replacement for a halogen and take steps to eliminate glare, then that's 100% better than what most people do. *steps off soapbox* Don't forget though, they're illegal! Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2 |
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02-06-2013, 08:54 AM
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#63 | |
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ATAC Kfir Hack
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: KPHF / Newport News
Oddometer: 455
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I believe you brought up an excellent point here about the cheap Chinese HID's, that's what I bought and the light scatter was horrible, my clear headlight protector probably didn't help matters either. If I were to try it again I would purchase a better quality HID.
__________________
Good Judgment Comes From Experience, Experience Comes From Bad Judgment. |
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02-06-2013, 10:35 AM
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#64 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Somewhere out West
Oddometer: 344
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High Intensity Discharge head lamp conversions: a Bright idea? This section covers special issues that araises when installing HID in Halogen housings 4300k vs 6000k. Half way down the thread there is some very good info posted - worth reading. I've got HID's installed and I have tried using a personally modified version of the "Casper shield" with little success. The problem with that shield is that it made the filament length shorter because I put the bulb inside of the shield - which had a lip - which shortened the bulb length inside of the housing. That made the beam more scattered and less desirable. I had originally thought shortening the focal length would 'tighten' the beam, but it didn't unless I did something wrong and really missed the mark here on something else. Currently I am close to the original focal length (bulb alone with no shield) and the beam pattern is ok - but it could be improved on. I've always wanted to try something a little -different- in the focal length to see what changes would be made on the beam pattern (and maybe paint the end of the bulb) but I'm running D2S Phillips 85122+ bulbs - and they are fairly expensive. So I'll stick with what I've got for now. What would be neat is to see a diagram on how the halogen bulb radiates the light pattern versus the HID bulb (more technical than what's in the first link); then tuning it would likely be easier... ![]() Hopefully def (and anyone else) can add more info on this.
WindSailor screwed with this post 02-08-2013 at 07:18 PM |
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02-06-2013, 08:12 PM
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#65 |
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I have little to say
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I'm not an optical guy but, I have seen diagrams showing the light output for an HID and a tungsten lamp of the same design. The tungsten lamp output is cooler in some regions of the filament whereas the HID arc is larger and hotter in different regions of the arc kernel hence the need for a different optical system to control and direct the HID light. As for placing the HID light kernel at the focal point of the optics in the projector headlamp, some shims should allow you to move the lamp back in the housing. Careful when handling the HID lamp...there is in excess of 20K VAC at cold strike...remember when you grabbed your first spark plug wire with the engine running?
Also, it might help to measure the position of the filament of a tungeten H1 bulb and compare it to the location of the HID kernel and adjust as needed. |
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