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Old 02-02-2013, 08:11 AM   #16
craydds
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
Rarely does throwing money at a mechanical problem solve it. The EZ-pull will transform a bad clutch release system that is hard to pull into a bad clutch release system that is easy to pull. Get the system mechanically up to speed first...
++ 1, again and again. clean up and lube EVERYTHING. (some say not to lube the clutch cable).
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:34 AM   #17
Bill Harris
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The control cables have teflon liners and don't need lube. If the cable is tight, it's shot. Spedo and tach cables, OTOH, do like a shot of speedo cable lubricant every now and then. They are different critters.

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Old 02-02-2013, 08:39 AM   #18
craydds
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
The control cables have teflon liners and don't need lube.
what Bill says.
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:39 AM   #19
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You can lube the clutch cable if it is the problem and need to make it last just till the new one arrives. Rarely does the cable need lube because it has a Nylon or something sheath the the steel cable runs in. The lube will only eventually erode this sheath so we don't lube them except when they get rusty or something and we need to just make them last a week or so till the replacement can be obtained. If you have a perfectly usable cable then lubing it will be counter productive.

Ordinarily clutch cables break before they need lubing.

I think it was suggested already to remover the throw out parts from the inside of the rear cover of the trans. If there is a problem it may be found here. Lube, grease, these parts and the lever on the rear of the trans and it's pin and the small roller bearing. Check the condition of the roller bearing. They do go bad and if left too long can take several hundred dollars of other parts with them. If this bearing goes bad (I'm being nice today, normally I say "If this bearing blows up") It will not only cost money for all the parts in the rear cover but likely you will need a new rear cover on the trans. And a pick up truck to get your bike home or where ever it will be fixed.

The clutch of an Airhead is not a one or two finger clutch. It's not all that bad but it's not an easy clutch to use if in a lot of city traffic. I describe it as a Man's Clutch. It takes some hand strength to use. But, here's the thing, it is easier to ride the bike with this clutch than with out it.

Edit; When you take the throw out parts out of the rear of the trans for cleaning and inspection, don't take the long rod out. No point really and it's very difficult to get back in the trans.
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:45 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodun View Post
Its straight out dangerous IMO to have to pull this hard on the lever.
What Bill says, what disston says, and LUBE THAT THROWOUT MECHANISM. Did I say that enough times? Hoodun, PM me and I'll send you my clutch adjustment article (MS Word file) if you think it might help. It is an awesome article because I am so smart. If anyone says differently, refer to the previous sentence.
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:50 AM   #21
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If regular folks realized how many "repairs" entailed only cleaning and lubrication, the mystery of mechanical things would quickly evaporate.
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Old 02-02-2013, 10:41 AM   #22
disston
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Here is the parts fisch for the throw out parts;



It looks like the parts are inside the trans, the rear cover is not even shown in this picture. These parts are inside the rear cover. They will come out with out removing the trans from the bike. If you think you need to take the long rod (#1) out the swing arm will have to come off. Usually the rod does not need attention however I have heard of it wearing into the pressure plate, heard of this but never seen it, I think it's rare.

The original pin (#13) will be held on by an E-clip (#12) that will be hard to see. It is in between the ears on the rear of the trans and the arm itself (#14). Sometimes the pin and E-clip have been replaced by a later edition or by a long bolt with a nut to hold it in place. Be careful if you try to replace these pins or E-clips even with parts from a dealer. New parts often don't fit here. The pins are available in two sizes, E-clips will fall off if not properly sized.

#6 is an oil seal. These parts are ordinarily lubed by the transmission fluid. It drips a small amount of gear oil onto the throw out bearing and thrust pieces. If there is too much oil in the rubber boot or it's leaking from here the seal may be bad. The rubber boot (#7) is really to keep dirt out.

The grease nipple is to lube the pin and the arm. They usually don't work because nobody has put any grease in them since 1978 or so.

The bearing (#4) of this design is a problem. This is a roller bearing, little tiny rollers, that will in time often explode or disintegrate. The rollers are laid flat between the two thrust pieces and allow the mechanism to spin when the clutch is pulled. Because these are rollers and not round balls the inner part of each roller wants to spin slower than the outer part of each roller. This causes scuffing and gauling of the parts. There is no time limit given by BMW for when these bearings should be or need to be replaced. I recommend replacing them if they are suspect. And they are not terribly cheap but cheaper than a new rear cover.

Check the bearing surface of the two thrust pieces. There should be no pitting or roughness. The surfaces should be mirror clean. But they may have a little discoloration if smooth. No blue discoloration which indicates over heating.

Grease the bearings and thrust pieces when replacing them. This grease is only for start up. Like mentioned earlier the throw out parts are lubed by the gear oil in the trans.

Once you have learned this routine it should be part of the yearly maintenance. I do this every Spring most years. I really only need to do this every other year and probably forget it some yers but I will do it next year and it'll be OK.
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Old 02-02-2013, 11:59 AM   #23
craydds
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
When you take the throw out parts out of the rear of the trans for cleaning and inspection, don't take the long rod out. No point really and it's very difficult to get back in the trans.
Disston is correct. Try NOT to take that rod (part #1, above) out. The rod is difficult to put in because of the felt seal (part #2, above) that fits onto the rod ( the rod itself is easy to put in without the felt). It is a PITA to get the FELT to go in correctly. But, here is how to do it (sorry, don't have any pics):
1. fit the felt onto the rod with some grease, not gear oil, this will help to stick it into place.
2. slip a plastic drinking straw (any thin tube, like a heat shrink tube will work) over the rod and over the felt, it must be a snug fit over the rod and felt; this will hold the felt onto the rod as you slip the rod into the trans,
3. lube the rod and straw, slip the rod into the trans, hold the rod in place and slip the straw/tube off of the rod, and viola!
your felt is in place.
This is the way I have done it, worked for me. YMMV.
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:56 PM   #24
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Been a while since this post but to follow up, I just adjusted the clutch replaced the cable, lubed everything , and have been dealing with the pull. It became less of an issue once I did the above. Every once in a while the thing slips out of my hand.

I should note that I am a city rider and am pulling the clutch in about 10-15 times a minute, minimum. After an hour or two my hand would get sore. Now my hands are used to it and it takes a day of riding to get to me.

I did try my neighbors r60 and it is VERY easy to pull compared to mine. I think its just a slightly different leveraged position. Or I happen to have a harder clutch spring.

Overall it works great. It just takes some effort and Im tired of messing with it. I prefer the hard pull on the r90 over the easy pull on the k75. The r90 is my daily bike of preference.
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:09 PM   #25
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BMW changed the clutch lever and perch a few times in the early/mid 70s to increase leverage. You could try sourcing parts from a newer bike.

How's the nylon bushing in the lever? If that's sloppy, it can be replaced - they're on the fiche.

Have you thought of using an easy pull adapter? It reduces the force at the lever by half.
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Old 02-06-2014, 12:59 PM   #26
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BMW changed the clutch lever and perch a few times in the early/mid 70s to increase leverage. You could try sourcing parts from a newer bike.

How's the nylon bushing in the lever? If that's sloppy, it can be replaced - they're on the fiche.

Have you thought of using an easy pull adapter? It reduces the force at the lever by half.
Here's the issue. As you mentioned the clutch arms are radically different. Does not look like there is a way to use the newer style on the left with the older style on the right.



The ez clutch may be the only way to resolve this issue, unless some sort of bracket can be fabricated to use the newer style lever with better leverage.

It really is a workout if your a city rider. By the end of the day the lever starts slipping out of your hand.

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Old 02-06-2014, 01:19 PM   #27
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They are totally different systems. Pre-81 has leaf spring with 1:1 ratio. That's why the fulcrum is so close to the pushrod. '81-on is diaphragm spring, with a real ratio (maybe 3:1) of pushrod travel to pressure plate movement, so you have more distance to the fulcrum.

The later system is inherently a bit easier, but it's a whole system.
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Old 02-06-2014, 05:15 PM   #28
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Here's the issue. As you mentioned the clutch arms are radically different. Does not look like there is a way to use the newer style on the left with the older style on the right.

In order to use that newer lever on the left you would need the newer rear cover on the trans. In order to use the newer rear cover on the trans you would need the clutch carrier system and eliminate the flywheel. In order to use the newer style clutch set up you will need the short input shaft in the transmission. (A whole transmission swap would probably be cheaper.)

If your bike is pre 1976 don't forget to change the starter from 8 teeth to 9.
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Old 02-07-2014, 02:20 PM   #29
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Here is one for you, does it have a aftermarket center stand? On some of those units if the springs were connected wrongly the spring would rub on the clutch arm giving a hard pull. I have seen this recently three times on local airheads and it happened to me with an R60/6 that had a Reynolds ride off stand. Check it out, it could save you a ton of hassles.
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Old 02-07-2014, 02:35 PM   #30
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Wink Some modifications required but here is the sloution!!

http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/MA...raulic%2525252
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