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Old 03-17-2013, 08:49 PM   #181
supershaft
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I have never seen many airheads get much of a ridge at all. But still, I would watch it going to a thinner base gasket. If you can't feel one with your finger nail, run a few passes with a Sunnen hone. If there is one there, you will then be able to see it. That and just how out of round those cylinders get in no time. Of course, you could hone a ridge out but I would be concerned with messing up my stones if it was much. In my experience, don't be tempted to use a Sunnen hone on a used bore until you get the bore completely straight again. By then you will be needing a bore job or real close to it.
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:36 PM   #182
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Thank God I don't do this for a living.

Riveting discussion, fellas, on ridge reamers, etc. I actually have first-hand experience but don't get me going. . .

I busied myself torquing down the left jug - kinda like tuning fresh guitar strings - you're always amazed when they don't break violently. Gap disappeared as I torqued to 25 pounds while continuously spinning the crank expecting a poltergeist-like event (thank you, Bill, for planting that thought in my head).

Sum total of this weekend's progress - 1. Flywheel back on, 2. Left cylinder installed. Period. Full stop.

Actually, left cylinder is still a work in process. Notice the lock nuts on the rocker adjustment - will re-torque tomorrow and see if I can get more purchase on the adjustment.



Also noticed some notchiness as I spun the crank during torquing procedure. More evidence of bike's traumatic youth. Damage caused by who knows what as seen through right side - must have been a violent event - it actually contacts the right con rod.



Will file it off and hopefully keep debris out of motor.
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:00 PM   #183
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Woodman View Post
Riveting discussion, fellas, on ridge reamers, etc. I actually have first-hand experience but don't get me going. . .

I busied myself torquing down the left jug - kinda like tuning fresh guitar strings - you're always amazed when they don't break violently. Gap disappeared as I torqued to 25 pounds while continuously spinning the crank expecting a poltergeist-like event (thank you, Bill, for planting that thought in my head).

Sum total of this weekend's progress - 1. Flywheel back on, 2. Left cylinder installed. Period. Full stop.

Actually, left cylinder is still a work in process. Notice the lock nuts on the rocker adjustment - will re-torque tomorrow and see if I can get more purchase on the adjustment.



Also noticed some notchiness as I spun the crank during torquing procedure. More evidence of bike's traumatic youth. Damage caused by who knows what as seen through right side - must have been a violent event - it actually contacts the right con rod.



Will file it off and hopefully keep debris out of motor.

When you build you want the valve adjusters backed fully off. That is, as much slack in the pushrods as you can get. You have the opposite. This can hold the valves open and if one hits a piston as you are spinning the crank for fun, things will break.

Pull the oil pan if it isn't off. Then dress the dink in the crank, then flush the bottom of the motor well into a dishpan. use a whole can of something toxic and spray through the cylinder opening. You want to clean the pan anyway and check you dipstick calibration. Read up on the torque sequence for the bolts and undo them in the same sequence.

it can be helpful to put a grease blob on the side of the crank beneath where you are going to file to catch debris. Then file wet (90 wt). Lastly wipe up. Then flush it anyway.

Remove no more metal than absolutely necessary. Cosmetics don't count, crank balance does.

if you torque down one side but leve the other open, the unequal stress can bend the engine block. This will only be noticeable at high speed when the bike will tend to hook suddenly to the side you torqued and left overnight. So always put the right side together first. Better to run into a ditch at warp 8 than into the oncoming lane. In contries that drive on the wrong side of the road anyway, assemble the left first.
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:14 AM   #184
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I also always have the rocker arm adjusters backed completely off when assembling cylinders and heads. It would work to just have the side being torqued set at TDC but I think backing them off works fine. If the head nuts are torqued with the adjusters opening the valves the torque will be lessened as you push the valve spring open with your torque wrench. This will result in nuts not fully torqued.
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:02 AM   #185
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R60's and Worn Bores.

I'm only a hobbyist with limited exposure, but I've measured quite a few and have never seen a worn R60 bore. While I'm sure every R60 bore that Supershaft has ever measured was fubar'd from the factory, I've never actually seen an R60 bore worn beyond spec.

Met a guy while manning Airhead Central at the Trenton BMW National back in '02 who was famous for never having washed his R60/5 after 600+k miles, or some rediculous figure. He was still running his stock bores, iirc. Said it used a little oil, but ran just fine.

Some of you might know who I'm talking about. For some reason I seem to remember him as an engineer or professor of engineering or something similar. I heard he passed away a while back. Might have even heard it here.
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Old 03-18-2013, 05:19 AM   #186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
if you torque down one side but leve the other open, the unequal stress can bend the engine block. This will only be noticeable at high speed when the bike will tend to hook suddenly to the side you torqued and left overnight. So always put the right side together first. Better to run into a ditch at warp 8 than into the oncoming lane. In contries that drive on the wrong side of the road anyway, assemble the left first.
Now you're talking my language. Going in circles anyway.

No, I installed the head with pushrods loose and zero tension on rockers. Just tightened them up at the end of the day to see if everything had come back correctly.

Lornce, these machines are legendary. Duane Ausherman's site describes how some parts are over-engineered such as the wheel bearings which were originally designed to accommodate a side car. Did he say BILLIONS of miles? Can't be.
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Old 03-18-2013, 05:24 AM   #187
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These machines are legendary for having the devil in the detail, those bearings might go many 100k miles but only if they are installed properly and then regularly maintained.
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Old 03-18-2013, 05:27 AM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Woodman View Post
Lornce, these machines are legendary. Duane Ausherman's site describes how some parts are over-engineered such as the wheel bearings which were originally designed to accommodate a side car. Did he say BILLIONS of miles? Can't be.
Have you measured your bores.

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Old 03-18-2013, 06:04 AM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lornce View Post
I'm only a hobbyist with limited exposure, but I've measured quite a few and have never seen a worn R60 bore. While I'm sure every R60 bore that Supershaft has ever measured was fubar'd from the factory, I've never actually seen an R60 bore worn beyond spec.

Met a guy while manning Airhead Central at the Trenton BMW National back in '02 who was famous for never having washed his R60/5 after 600+k miles, or some rediculous figure. He was still running his stock bores, iirc. Said it used a little oil, but ran just fine.

Some of you might know who I'm talking about. For some reason I seem to remember him as an engineer or professor of engineering or something similar. I heard he passed away a while back. Might have even heard it here.
That guy was Fred Tausch. I think his bike had 600,000 miles on it when he died. I had quite a few conversations with Fred at the New England rallies we attended. He was a brilliant man and our coversations often drew a crowd.
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:21 AM   #190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasbmw View Post
These machines are legendary for having the devil in the detail, those bearings might go many 100k miles but only if they are installed properly and then regularly maintained.
Looking back at some threads from past years that suddenly went cold without explanation, I suspect errors were made, parts broken, bank accounts drained and relationships strained. You're right about detail.

BTW, Charles, read your other thread on the cam - whole new world on that site. Will consider cam experimentation when I retire.
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Old 03-18-2013, 03:47 PM   #191
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Looking back at some threads from past years that suddenly went cold without explanation, I suspect errors were made, parts broken, bank accounts drained and relationships strained. You're right about detail.

BTW, Charles, read your other thread on the cam - whole new world on that site. Will consider cam experimentation when I retire.
Too true, these bikes can be expensive to renovate, but really worthwhile to own for e long term.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:23 PM   #192
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Dressed the burr off the crank throw by taping a dam around it then dry filing. Got the tape to stick by degreasing with acetone. Kept vacuum cleaner suction very close to the file. I guarantee not a molecule of debris was left behind.

Lornce, yes, I am amazed both bores are within spec. Can't seem to find a ridge either. I'll take a chance on the skinny base gaskets.

Charles, sorry to hear your experiences with Nortons was less than spectacular - as much as my Norton was a blast to ride when I was a kid, I'd rather be restoring an airhead. Cheers!
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:21 AM   #193
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I found this Photo on the UK club website.

it shows what i think may be ping damage to a R60 head.

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Old 03-19-2013, 11:46 AM   #194
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I highly suspect that is corrosion damage from water getting into the cylinder. I have never seen ping damage like that. Ping damage goes all the way around.

Measure the bore? I was talking about piston/cylinder clearance. That's the spec that matters.
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Old 03-19-2013, 12:36 PM   #195
Plaka
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Originally Posted by chasbmw View Post
I found this Photo on the UK club website.

it shows what i think may be ping damage to a R60 head.
If it's on the bottom it could also be from corrosion. Condensation in the cylinder during storage. I would want to see the spark plug.
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