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Old 04-06-2013, 03:32 AM   #226
Tin Woodman OP
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Tricky little procedure.

Took a while to organize the M16 oversize plug, the 15mm drill bit and the tap but the real key to solving this puzzle was the drill press. Definitely could never drill and tap accurately without it. Tool case in photo just happened to be the perfect height to prop up the tranny.



Started the tap in the drill press and turned the chuck by hand to set it, then finished tapping the threads by hand. Went in nice and straight.



Managed to keep all debris out of the tranny. Many thanks for everyone's advice.
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Old 04-06-2013, 04:36 AM   #227
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Yay. Another milestone.

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Old 04-06-2013, 05:24 AM   #228
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Nice to see you did it right.

BTW M16x1.5 isn't really oversize; it's just the next normal size for a drain plug. Unfortunately it looks like BMW no longer uses this size in a magnetic version (I sure don't know of a current application). Non-magnetic, it's the standard drain plug for Oilhead engines. I have seen magnetic ones for sale in the aftermarket, though, such as at:

http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/bmwmotorcycles.php
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Old 04-06-2013, 05:08 PM   #229
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntonLargiader View Post
Nice to see you did it right.

BTW M16x1.5 isn't really oversize; it's just the next normal size for a drain plug. Unfortunately it looks like BMW no longer uses this size in a magnetic version (I sure don't know of a current application). Non-magnetic, it's the standard drain plug for Oilhead engines. I have seen magnetic ones for sale in the aftermarket, though, such as at:

http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/bmwmotorcycles.php
I've been making magnetic pugs from ordinary ones one by sticking on a small disk shaped rare earth magnet. The thing is strong enough to suck the teeth off the gears. Gets retained by a spot of red locktite anyway.

The trans magnetic plug was pulling particulates from the shaft through the tranny output seal so I had to fit another to the shaft to balance things. Then I had problems with magnetic drag on the shaft eating up my horsepower. Putting the magnet in a standard magnet cup seems to have largely resolved this.

Plaka screwed with this post 04-06-2013 at 05:14 PM
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Old 04-06-2013, 05:29 PM   #230
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Is this a joke? I would love to know how you could know this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post

The trans magnetic plug was pulling particulates from the shaft through the tranny output seal so I had to fit another to the shaft to balance things. Then I had problems with magnetic drag on the shaft eating up my horsepower. Putting the magnet in a standard magnet cup seems to have largely resolved this.
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Old 04-06-2013, 06:02 PM   #231
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Is this a joke? I would love to know how you could know this.
I suspected the particulate business from the quantity of stuff on the trans plug. So I salted the shaft with radiolabeled iron filings (made them in my crawlspace with a rented oxygen concentrator pulling Radon). geiger counter confirmed them on the trans plug.

I was noticing signifigant power loss. turning the rear wheel by hand revealed a strange sort of soft rapid notchiness. Removing the plug resolved it. The magnet was acting on the splined coupling hub in the shaft
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Old 04-06-2013, 07:14 PM   #232
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It's no longer April 1 st.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
I suspected the particulate business from the quantity of stuff on the trans plug. So I salted the shaft with radiolabeled iron filings (made them in my crawlspace with a rented oxygen concentrator pulling Radon). geiger counter confirmed them on the trans plug.

I was noticing signifigant power loss. turning the rear wheel by hand revealed a strange sort of soft rapid notchiness. Removing the plug resolved it. The magnet was acting on the splined coupling hub in the shaft
Unless you live in your crawlspace where the Radon concentration is enabling time travel................
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Old 04-06-2013, 07:22 PM   #233
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Unless you live in your crawlspace where the Radon concentration is enabling time travel................
Mmm...no. But I got some other things down there that enable alternate universes. Ooooo...the colors!


"It's always April first somewhere."
Kim Jong Un, speaking off the record...he thought.
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Old 04-06-2013, 11:05 PM   #234
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This is ridiculous. . .

I'm acutely aware this thread competes with watching paint dry for entertainment value but do we really need to resort to inane musings and juvenile flights of fancy to retain readers' interest? Dorothy and I, as well as many of our Munchkin colleagues are shocked. Shocked!
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:41 AM   #235
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I'm acutely aware this thread competes with watching paint dry for entertainment value but do we really need to resort to inane musings and juvenile flights of fancy to retain readers' interest? Dorothy and I, as well as many of our Munchkin colleagues are shocked. Shocked!
Clear case of magnet envy.


But just for the munchkins; magnet porn:







Yes, that's the drain plug suspending 10 pairs of vice grips (including 4 of the big ones). Your stock magnet won't pick up a 6" crescent wrench.

However the magnetism penetrates the plug and beyond. Remains to be seen if enough crap is picked up off the road to make removing the plug difficult. I might have to put some modeling clay or heavy grease in the hex hole.
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:07 AM   #236
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I'd be worried about riding over man hole covers.

Magnet envy? No way. I'm more of a vice grips guy - gettin' kind of excited. . .
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Old 04-11-2013, 11:34 PM   #237
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I must confess my ignorance.

Now that I have the case open, I'm trying to determine what, if anything needs to be done to the transmission. Spent some time gazing into its guts lately in an attempt to understand how it works - always found them a bit mysterious, frankly. I'm determined not to butcher this part of the project and I'm starting to realize it's a real possibility if I'm not careful. I've read a number of threads on tranny issues as well as the manual but still have a couple of questions if you'll indulge me -



Shifted to what I believe is first gear (one down). Manually spun the input shaft almost four times to make the output shaft turn one time - this makes sense because first gear is about 3.8:1. Everything turns smoothly.

First question: I presume neutral is between first and second. Can't seem to find it. Although the cam plate and the forks move with authority to what I believe should be neutral, it operates like it's still in first gear.

Finally, when I shift to what I believe should be the three upper gears, everything locks up. With effort, I can get second gear to operate but I assumed all gears should operate smoothly. Is my reasoning faulty?
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:36 AM   #238
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Though I've never had a BMW trans apart, I have had a number of others apart. I'd think you'd need to have the rear cover on to hold everything in precise alignment, in order for things to spin and shift like they should. On my RD, I went through the whole anxiety thing, sure that I had done something wrong. once I put the cases together, it was fine. Someone else who knows these will chime in shortly.
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:58 AM   #239
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Short of disassembling the box and replacing the bearings (you'll need a press, etc etc and the job WILL snowball) all you can really do is check the shimming or reshim the gearbox (of course you did keep the shims separated and in order when you pulled the rear cover) and checking the adjustment of the shift forks. Shimming can be done w/o the special tools by using thin solder as a "plastigage" and shift forks are adjusted by inspection. The output shaft seal is best replaced now. Otherwise, "If it Ain't Broke, donna fixit".

There was a thread on the reshimming recently. Let me dig.

Let's put it this way: when my box gets refreshed, I'm sending it out.

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Old 04-12-2013, 02:16 PM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyCash View Post
I'd think you'd need to have the rear cover on to hold everything in precise alignment, in order for things to spin and shift like they should.
I was thinking the same thing, Jonny.

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Otherwise, "If it Ain't Broke, donna fixit". --Bill
I agree, Bill. I'm inclined to leave things undisturbed however if anything actually is broken or needs replacing/adjusting, now would be a good time to do it. I think I'll temporarily reinstall the cover tonight and see how everything meshes. Yes, I've already renewed all the seals except for the input shaft. There are only two shims and they only fit their respective bearings - but who's to say the last mechanic used the right ones. Good tip about using solder as plasti-gage.
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