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Old 02-14-2013, 05:51 AM   #46
Bill Harris
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Quote:
The 308 degree camshaft will be more widely available, given that the chronic pinging problems in 600s have been blamed partially on the soft cam fitted to the 600s it would be worth considering. Unfortunately I cannot speak from personal experiance...
So you don't know first-hand how a non-factory cam grind will work in an R60 and you're making a WAG to stick a different cam in it? The carburetor size and type, jetting, valve sizes, etc were all determined using the factory cam grind. If there is an issue with pinging, the factory low-test base gaskets are the recommended cure, and aftermarket dual-plugging is a tried and known fix.

--Bill
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:13 AM   #47
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Airheads seem to work perfectly well with a great variety of cams fitted to them......and I don't really think that going from the cam fitted to the 600 to a 308 is that a radical change. I did preface my comment about having no experiance, and in my first post I asked if someone had done this. I would like to know what the results might be and I think that it is less likely to go wrong than fitting the quill back in place with loctite without being really sure that the ignition timing remains in spec.
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Old 02-14-2013, 09:47 AM   #48
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If you were asking about putting 750 or 900 cylinders on a 600 that had the 600 cam in it you'd probably find more answers. I have heard several people say going the big cylinders on the small cam didn't work that well. I haven't done it so this is second hand info.

I still think stock usually works best. But if it was all that bad it could be done again. Just how bad would be the question.

If this bike is not needed immediately for daily type transportation I'd consider looking for the correct parts (safer bet) for a few months. They will show up.

I also think you have a great opportunity to go whole hog if you wanted. Maybe the most expensive but get a kit from Sibenbrock or who ever makes it and build a 1000cc Monster.
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:16 AM   #49
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Laugh

Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
If you were asking about putting 750 or 900 cylinders on a 600 that had the 600 cam in it you'd probably find more answers. I have heard several people say going the big cylinders on the small cam didn't work that well. I haven't done it so this is second hand info.

I still think stock usually works best. But if it was all that bad it could be done again. Just how bad would be the question.

If this bike is not needed immediately for daily type transportation I'd consider looking for the correct parts (safer bet) for a few months. They will show up.

I also think you have a great opportunity to go whole hog if you wanted. Maybe the most expensive but get a kit from Sibenbrock or who ever makes it and build a 1000cc Monster.
I have posted a query on the airheads list regarding experience of using the 308 camshafts.....
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:38 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by chasbmw View Post
I have posted a query on the airheads list regarding experience of using the 308 camshafts.....
I saw that Charles. So far no reply. Would be strange wouldn't it if nobody has ever dome this? I can't see that happening tho.
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:13 AM   #51
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I'm scouring the local sources for a used camshaft today. Will continue to cast a wider net if unsuccessful. In the meantime, I checked out your discussion of knurlized pistons - absolutely amazing. Who knew this was possible? I'll bet that's where the expression 'the right way, the wrong way and the army way' came from. Example - http://www.pbase.com/stealthfti/image/53355694
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:12 AM   #52
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Used cam

The first one I showed you sold, quite cheap at that. $26.00 plus shipping.
Here is another one: http://tinyurl.com/b4k9kyq

Not quite as cheap................
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Old 02-15-2013, 10:33 AM   #53
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i'd PM you but i can't. i have an r50, r60 cam around. if you want it let me know.
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:09 AM   #54
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Thanks gentlemen - both have just become desirable as I just determined my local sources don't have any. BMWblake, I'll PM you - just fixed the messaging options.


Cheers.
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Tin Woodman screwed with this post 02-15-2013 at 11:15 AM
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:59 AM   #55
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Ya gotta love it when a plan comes together...




The lifters, although not perfect, could be reused for a while. Use them, but keep an eye open for replacements.

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Old 02-15-2013, 01:49 PM   #56
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Thanks bmwblake - look forward to getting the cam.

Also found a couple of good lifters locally - haven't seen them yet so will bring along my micrometer when I pick them up tomorrow. Also getting chain kit and sprocket so will have plenty to keep me busy this weekend.

Question - because there's no way to block the crank at this time, is there a way to safely replace the rear main seal?
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:18 PM   #57
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You can still block the crank-- work up some sort of strap to go across the crankshaft stub, or wedge something between the crank webs and the case through the cylinder holes. Double-check that the crank is at TDC before removing the flywheel.

--Bill
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:00 PM   #58
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[



QUOTE]

I run a tiedown around the frame tubes that goes over the tip of the cam where I have one of Motion Pro's 3 way allen wrenches to hold the tiedown in place. Sorry, don't have a pic for clarification.
Works for me.
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:24 PM   #59
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Yeah, around the frame tubes or the exposed cylinder studs. Although BLOCKING THE CRANK is a big issue al you really need to to is protect it from a small nudge.

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Old 02-15-2013, 10:32 PM   #60
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Made a simple restraining strap on Bill's advice just in case -



And made a crude stop to enable flywheel extraction -



Was careful to keep everything at TDC. Clymer manual says to simply remove flywheel - how???
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