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Old 02-11-2013, 08:33 AM   #31
sailah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laconic View Post
If you have a Machinery's Handbook, there's a good discussion of how o-rings are supposed to work.

Gland/groove depth should be 80% of o-ring cross section and 50% wider. You probably knew that, but I like reading the handbook.
I obviously did NOT know that so thanks!! I'll measure the o ring and have at it.

+1 on McMaster. I order from those guys all the time. The website is way better than Grainger so I usually order from them. Plus they are next day delivery being in Cleveland and shipping is always very reasonable.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:08 AM   #32
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Didn't want to get any closer to the threads. O ring fits in there perfect and I did make it 80% depth of O ring







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Old 02-11-2013, 10:30 AM   #33
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Sweet! That will never leak.
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:08 AM   #34
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Sweet! That will never leak.
Have you seen my welding?

Thanks for the tip
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:29 PM   #35
xcflyn OP
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new project- one for me. This will be hard to believe but my water jet has no jet on timer. The solenoid is a 24V so I decided to mount a timer on the unit and first task is to make a mount, simple : well nothing I do is simple and it seems when ever I take time to do something for myself I hurry and shortcut. This time will be no different.
Down to business -
Start on my piece of scratch paper and then set up to cut-

fast forward to check fit

little bit of brake work

Well the last two hits are going to require a heavy off set (gooseneck) punch to reach in and give clearance for those ears - not those ears - the ones on the ends
Of course I dont have a punch that is that narrow with that much offset - so a new project is started - make a punch
starts with this -

A few heavy hits and a tool is born - almost - needs more work to fit the holder but it looks like it steps over far enough.

I think it will do the job, I will finish up on it tomorrow or on the weekend.
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:20 PM   #36
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Then the tool needed a holder


Now it can bend

weld the edges

And you have this- just needs a back piece made


I had hoped there would be more contributions to this thread. I am interested in what others are making
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Old 02-14-2013, 09:18 PM   #37
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While I'd like to see others posting up their projects too, please don't abandon what you're posting now. I'm really enjoying it
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:55 AM   #38
kirkster70
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You guys are doing some excellent work! Thanks for posting up your pics! I've been learning a lot by just following along.
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:32 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
Didn't want to get any closer to the threads. O ring fits in there perfect and I did make it 80% depth of O ring


Viton?
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:50 AM   #40
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It's the stock one from the ninja, no idea sorry
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:54 AM   #41
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awesome

You guys are doing some very cool stuff! Thanks for posting the step-by-step pics.

btw, did anyone identify the vent looking part?
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:02 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xcflyn View Post

I had hoped there would be more contributions to this thread. I am interested in what others are making
Tent stove out of scrap laying around the shop, has an adjustable bypass damper built in.




Cable operated decomp for a cr500, really needs a proper bracket and attachment method.



jar944 screwed with this post 02-15-2013 at 06:10 AM
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Old 02-15-2013, 10:02 AM   #43
jar944
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Machining a swingarm for a engine swap




Tool to bore and face the swingarm
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:18 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jar944 View Post
Tent stove out of scrap laying around the shop, has an adjustable bypass damper built in.




Cable operated decomp for a cr500, really needs a proper bracket and attachment method.


That d-comp is a work of art ! The bracket should be the easy part.
I looked at that stove and thought " man you could heat a house with that", I bet you get a tent mighty cozy
Thanks for the post !
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:42 PM   #45
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went to start on a set of cr500 swingarm extensions this morning, started to move my bandsaw and promptly broke off the lower guide:


briefly contemplated buying a much larger saw, but decided against that. i figured i could machine up a new guide, but how to cut the stock with out a saw..


Being lazy I just cleaned up what was left of the guide in the mill


stock cut to length, top of the guide machined, and the other half of the broken guide


new lower section being machined


marked and center drilled


drilled


tapped, and bolted together
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