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Old 02-05-2013, 06:58 PM   #16
craydds
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One Less Harley View Post
get the after market brass one from Hucky's, the OEM will leak in a year or less. Epoxy may or may not work, so take a chance on using it and having it leak.

I have gone through 2-3 OEM ones, and have had the brass one in for a 1.5 years of leak free operation.
Thanks for the advice; will get a neutral switch from Hucky's if I ever need one. I would advise LandLeftBehind not to repair an old switch - just get a new one, like One Less says.
p.s. My neutral switch is original, no leaks! How old is that, 38 years?
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Old 02-05-2013, 07:27 PM   #17
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Do use a high pressure grease! It needs to be something that doesn't squish away under high pressure. It's usually pretty stringy stuff and doesn't clean up easily by wiping with a rag.

As for the neutral switch - just get the brass one from Motobins. Not expensive and they're not supposed to leak. The new BMW switches seem to not last longer than a year. And since you're pulling the trans, or moving it back, there's no need to pull the rear engine mount tube in the block. I would recommend just pulling the trans rather than only pulling it back.

Well done finding a place to work on the old girl! She's got a bit more 'character' than this time last year, huh?
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Old 02-05-2013, 07:55 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirespokes View Post
I would recommend just pulling the trans rather than only pulling it back.
+1 on this. Sliding the trans back doesn't really save you much time at all and guarantees that you won't do a great job of cleaning and lubing the splines. Plus with all the disassembly work you'll need to do, you might as well just do the last step and get it apart so you can get a good luck at everything else inside, not just the splines.
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Old 02-05-2013, 07:56 PM   #19
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My main concern with fully removing the transmission is unfastening the drive shaft u-joint. My bike is in my shop space, and Im having trouble visualizing the parts from the fiche, but would it simply be a matter of rolling back the rubber boot and unfastening the special bolts (reversing for reassembly)? If so its probably not as big of a deal as im making it out to be.

Btw the Honda moly 60 is on its way via mail. Ill be sure to get a switch in the mail and pick up some wheel bearing grease for the throwout parts this week!
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Old 02-05-2013, 07:59 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Wirespokes View Post
Well done finding a place to work on the old girl! She's got a bit more 'character' than this time last year, huh?
You can say that! Sometimes I look at the pictures I took when I first got the bike.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:32 AM   #21
craydds
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandLeftBehind View Post
would it simply be a matter of rolling back the rubber boot and unfastening the special bolts (reversing for reassembly)?
LLB, there are some pics of driveshaft installation in post #140 here http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...848159&page=10 ; you may need to move your swingarm backwards to have room to remove the trans - there are a some pics of swingarm install in post #118, same thread. just do the removal in reverse steps.
1. loosen and remove the clamps on the swingarm boot, pull back the boot off of the trans.
2. lock the rear brake and remove 1 driveshaft bolt; unlock brake, rotate rear wheel to next bolt, lock brake and repeat.
3. bolts are all out. you can re-use the bolts if they do NOT have lock washers. the new, short bolts do NOT use locks and can be used again. the old bolts with locks have to be replaced.
4. now remove the swingarm locknuts and bolts so you can pull the swingarm backwards.
5. take that transmission OFF.
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:07 PM   #22
disston
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Yes the drive shaft rubber boot pulls back and the four 10mm bolts are undone. I use the tool kit box end wrench but another 12 point box end wrench will fit, most of the time. There is a limited amount of space to get the wrench in but you probably have one that will fit.

Be careful with the skinny clamps on the boot. There are available at the dealers as I remember but I thought they weren't exactly cheap.
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:34 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One Less Harley View Post
get the after market brass one from Hucky's, the OEM will leak in a year or less. Epoxy may or may not work, so take a chance on using it and having it leak.

I have gone through 2-3 OEM ones, and have had the brass one in for a 1.5 years of leak free operation.
Is it interchangeable? ..... same thread length? 'cuz the brass one is listed for pre-'76 (i.e. Slash 5's and early Slash 6's)....

I hope that the "new" aluminum one that I just put in (MAX BMW part) isn't crapola.......




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Old 02-06-2013, 01:44 PM   #24
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Is it interchangeable? ..... same thread length? 'cuz the brass one is listed for pre-'76 (i.e. Slash 5's and early Slash 6's)....
My question as well. I somehow missed that there was now a brass aftermarket N switch
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:51 PM   #25
sigpe57
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Put the Crasftsman crowbar here and push down the crowbar. You will be able to push the aluminum tube up and out.



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Old 02-06-2013, 05:16 PM   #26
LandLeftBehind OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craydds View Post
LLB, there are some pics of driveshaft installation in post #140 here http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...848159&page=10 ; you may need to move your swingarm backwards to have room to remove the trans - there are a some pics of swingarm install in post #118, same thread. just do the removal in reverse steps.
1. loosen and remove the clamps on the swingarm boot, pull back the boot off of the trans.
2. lock the rear brake and remove 1 driveshaft bolt; unlock brake, rotate rear wheel to next bolt, lock brake and repeat.
3. bolts are all out. you can re-use the bolts if they do NOT have lock washers. the new, short bolts do NOT use locks and can be used again. the old bolts with locks have to be replaced.
4. now remove the swingarm locknuts and bolts so you can pull the swingarm backwards.
5. take that transmission OFF.
Great, that sounds simple enough. I dont have to mess with the suspension do I? Im hoping it will not get in the way of removing the trans while simulteously keeping the rear wheel supported...
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:25 PM   #27
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LLB,

I discovered several years ago that sometimes short cuts are just not what we think they are. I tried to remove the rear end of the bike by taking it all off as one piece. It was cumbersome and hard to handle. When It came time to put everything back together it was rather impossible to handle it. So I still had to take it all apart.

Now when I take the trans out any time, I take the rear wheel off and the sub frame and shocks come off. Oh, I have bags so the racks come off. I take the final drive off and I take the swing arm off. I take each and every one of these parts off the bike as an individual piece. And then I put them all back the same way. I know this goes contrary to anybody that thinks shortcuts work but for me it is faster this way.

Good luck.
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:49 PM   #28
ME 109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
LLB,



Now when I take the trans out any time, I take the rear wheel off and the sub frame and shocks come off. Oh, I have bags so the racks come off. I take the final drive off and I take the swing arm off. I take each and every one of these parts off the bike as an individual piece. And then I put them all back the same way. I know this goes contrary to anybody that thinks shortcuts work but for me it is faster this way.

Good luck.
There is a difference between a short cut, and the quickest way to do a job.
I can have my tranny on the floor in about 45 minutes. It must take you a long time disston?
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:51 PM   #29
One Less Harley
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there are two different types of brass replacement switches, early and late.

The OEM- I've been through three and they have all leaked in less than a year. The bras replacement has been in there of 1.5 to 2 years and is dry as a bone.
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Old 02-06-2013, 07:18 PM   #30
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I think I used to be faster but I am working outside and on the ground. I can have the trannie out in not more than an hour I'm sure. If I was trying to hurry, much less.

I don't think most shortcuts are a savings of time or energy. Leaving the final drive attached to the swing arm makes the whole thing cumbersome and difficult to handle. And all for the sake of removing four nuts.
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