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Old 02-26-2013, 06:11 AM   #166
planemanx15 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davesupreme View Post
i just read all this at the DR site...

http://drriders.com/topic6662.html

ProCycle, truly.... you 'da man!!! that's some really bad shizzit!... i like my KTM, but now i feel i really shouldn't have read that....

some really excellent work, dooder!... no shortcuts, excellent machine work and attention to detail... god, i wanna ride that thing!...
Just read that as well, wow! Can't wait to see that thing move.
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:52 PM   #167
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Those aluminum fragments went through the sump filter and pump before ending up in the filer media. The whole lubrication circuit should be looked at and flushed, it doesn't take much debris to clog or restrict oil galleries and flow.

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Old 03-01-2013, 12:47 PM   #168
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Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Hey Jeff... any thoughts on doing up a page on the ProCycle site that has step by step instructions on gapping rings? The ones you have on the fork and shock builds are great.
While I had Planemanx's cylinder here I went ahead and set the ring gaps for him and took a few pics along the way.
You can find it here --> http://www.procycle.us/info/articles...ring-gaps.html
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:01 PM   #169
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Thank you procycle. That's an excellent tutorial.
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:06 PM   #170
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Split the cases. Replace the bearings. The crank assembly you can probably flush out if you do it thoroughly. Worked when I did mine.

Simplybearings in the UK has great bearings at great prices. I replaced everything in my lower end (except the crank) with SKF. Much, much better bearings. Size yours carefully and note which sides are sealed before you remove them. Take pictures! Use your oven to remove and replace the bearings. 20 minutes or so at 350F. They drop right out.

The bearing on the input shaft behind the clutch has a pin in it (mine was also chinese). Bearing retaining compound will keep that in place without the pin. My bike has 11k miles on the 790 kit and rebuild and runs as smooth as a babies ass.

Do it right and ride it a lot. Break in per motoman. Very effective.
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:00 PM   #171
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Great read.

PlanemanX, Sorry you had to learn from a mistake the hard way, but if you ever make it out to AZ the beers on me for letting me potentially learn from your mistake.

The bike looks awesome, and I can't wait to see it completely done.

ProCycle, as always, top notch.
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:23 PM   #172
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Down the road

Planemanx15 and Procycle are my heros. In the face of 'internet blowby' by others not gapped properly these two continue to go to it. Although not a DR person I will make it a point to order items from Procycle for my spring work. Here is a related info link for some:
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...orsepower.aspx
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:27 AM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
While I had Planemanx's cylinder here I went ahead and set the ring gaps for him and took a few pics along the way.
You can find it here --> http://www.procycle.us/info/articles...ring-gaps.html


Excellent tutorial.
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:44 AM   #174
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Alright guys, just an update. The new piston and my honed out cylinder should be arriving back on my door step on Monday. Procycle sent me an after pic of the cylinder, and it looks great. he said he wouldn't have a problem running it in his bike. For a guy running a buisness, he wasn't pushy at all about buying a new kit from him. He also gapped the rings (for the tutorial) so the kit is now plug and play. I will still go slow with the install and check over everything again, but I'm confident with my knowledge now to do it all correctly. I'm off on Tuesday and Wednesday this week, so I'll probably install it then.

As for the metal in the engine. I do not feel comfortable enough to tear open the engine, so I will just be doing many oil changes in the first 100 miles. If I continue to see metal towards the 100 mile mark, I'll man up and open the engine. I believe with constant oil changes and a mag drain plug, it will be alright. Again, if I run into problems down the road, its nobody's problem but mine. There was no metal flakes on the con-rod or in the gears towards the bottom and back of the case, so I believe the oil system is doing a good job of cleaning it.
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planemanx15 screwed with this post 03-02-2013 at 08:46 PM
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:00 AM   #175
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You might want to try and back flush your oil cooler. The tubing in it can hold contaminents and by flushing it in the reverse flow direction you can get most out. Also blow out all your external oil lines with compressed air.

Lots of filter changes and remember your mag drain plug won't help with aluminium fragments.

If you pulled your clutch cover and leaned the bike over you could also try and flush out the bottom of the cases.

Good luck with it.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:01 AM   #176
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By all means flush out the oil cooler in a solvent tank and make sure the head and top end is clean. I would pull the clutch and rinse the plates too. Just about every nook and cranny is accessible without splitting cases or pulling the engine. Check the flywheel magnets too.
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:18 AM   #177
planemanx15 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canuckAME View Post
You might want to try and back flush your oil cooler. The tubing in it can hold contaminents and by flushing it in the reverse flow direction you can get most out. Also blow out all your external oil lines with compressed air.

Lots of filter changes and remember your mag drain plug won't help with aluminium fragments.

If you pulled your clutch cover and leaned the bike over you could also try and flush out the bottom of the cases.

Good luck with it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reposado1800 View Post
By all means flush out the oil cooler in a solvent tank and make sure the head and top end is clean. I would pull the clutch and rinse the plates too. Just about every nook and cranny is accessible without splitting cases or pulling the engine. Check the flywheel magnets too.
Will do, Thanks for the advice guys!
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:54 PM   #178
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Magnetic drain plug won't help at all, what you have there are aluminum shavings and they are not magnetic.

Flush the engine thoroughly with kerosene and don't forget to flush the oil cooler too.
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:59 PM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Süsser Tod View Post
and don't forget to flush the oil cooler too.
There won't be anything in the oil cooler unless it somehow got past the oil filter.
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:58 PM   #180
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I'm optimistic that the rest of the motor will be fine. If the filter plugged then the bypass valve would open and pump shavings
To the top end and gearset. Pop a valve cover and
Look for flecks that have settled in the valleys up top.

If it's clear, I'd feel pretty good about leaving bearings and stuff alone.

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