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Old 04-02-2013, 08:11 PM   #241
gregdee
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Me too!

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Originally Posted by bkoz View Post
One of the best upgrades you can do to the KLR is trading it in for a DR...

Yeah, this thread got me thinking that I need to put a 790 kit in my wife's DR. Then I had a better idea: sell my KLR 688, buy my own DR and do the kit.

Thanks for this thread - good stuff. I love ADVRIDER
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:01 PM   #242
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Another MPG report... 40mpg. I think its time to take out the carb tuning handbooks.

That was riding it a bit aggressive, but thats how I normally ride. Highway \ city about 50\50. and on the highway I usually keep it about 75 mph.Hit reserve at 170 miles, I went another 16 miles before gas. The IMS tank took 4.6 gallons. Before the kit, i was in the 45-48 range with mixed driving.

Currently I'm on the second notch down from the top on the needle. As for the jets, I really don't remember.

I usually get lower fuel economy in the winter, and it is still pretty cold when I've been riding. I also have been letting the bike warm up a lot before riding, which is a factor that contributes. I'm not sure if I'm going to touch it yet, or just leave it for now and see if it gets better as the temps climb back up.
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:44 PM   #243
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40 don't sound bad, but i don't have your bike.... i don't get 40 on my 450 KTM, but i gotta accelerator pump/41mm FCR, so...

cold dry air is denser than warm humid air, bike carburates(sp?) better in cold dry... look up relative air density....Merge Racing has an air density calculator on their website...

you totally changed your engine, so you're gonna have to experiment some to get it right... that procycle guy sounds pretty smart, i'm sure he must have some baseline jetting for his kit..... i think fat is where it's at, and if you ride hard, you wanna stay away from lean, cause' detonation is bad.... though i dunno if you could ever detonate that motor that bad.... plus fat runs cooler....

i dunno how hard it is to change jets/needles in your bike?... do the butt dyno, and where it pulls the best, leave it... you just gotta experiment some, and some bikes it's easier than others to change jets.... mines really simple, my buddy's '10 450 Six Days is a pain, so YMMV....

old school.... find someplace where you can run WFO for awhile, doesn't have to be that long.... keep the main jet that runs/pulls the best WFO...if you try it, you'll be able to tell.... then mess w/the needle position for the midrange... then mess w/the pilot... pilot's pretty much just for starting/idle/barely off throttle.... you gotta go top to bottom though, WFO first, or you'll start chasing your tail.... not that i ever did that....
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:29 PM   #244
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Stop letting it idle so long. Start it, run it for 3-5 minutes max, then ride it or shut it off. I read back on page 1 or 2 that you (quote) ran it at idle for 20 minutes after you did the clutch.

That's about as dumb of an idea as I've evers herds. There's no good that can come from prolonged idling. Low oil pressure and flow, so oil starvation is highly possible, no air flow whatsoever. All bad...


Perhaps if the carb is the same you might mirror the DRbig DR800 jetting specs.

My guess is it's lean at idle and rich and richer as the throttle is opened more and more.

Hope you can get it to a dyno to check the air fuel ratio. Bring smaller main jets and a bigger pilot jet when you do.

I'm a little late to the party, but I'm glad your bike is back together and have to say you handled the bumps very well.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:06 PM   #245
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How does the plug look? No bog when throttling,try going one up on the clip(making the needle lower)
Plugs can be tough to read these days.May have to wait till you get some more miles on it to try to make changes.Still a little tightish ?
Really no need to let idle so long.5 min max and then get going somewhat easy for a few miles.
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:14 AM   #246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davesupreme View Post
40 don't sound bad, but i don't have your bike.... i don't get 40 on my 450 KTM, but i gotta accelerator pump/41mm FCR, so...

cold dry air is denser than warm humid air, bike carburates(sp?) better in cold dry... look up relative air density....Merge Racing has an air density calculator on their website...

you totally changed your engine, so you're gonna have to experiment some to get it right... that procycle guy sounds pretty smart, i'm sure he must have some baseline jetting for his kit..... i think fat is where it's at, and if you ride hard, you wanna stay away from lean, cause' detonation is bad.... though i dunno if you could ever detonate that motor that bad.... plus fat runs cooler....

i dunno how hard it is to change jets/needles in your bike?... do the butt dyno, and where it pulls the best, leave it... you just gotta experiment some, and some bikes it's easier than others to change jets.... mines really simple, my buddy's '10 450 Six Days is a pain, so YMMV....

old school.... find someplace where you can run WFO for awhile, doesn't have to be that long.... keep the main jet that runs/pulls the best WFO...if you try it, you'll be able to tell.... then mess w/the needle position for the midrange... then mess w/the pilot... pilot's pretty much just for starting/idle/barely off throttle.... you gotta go top to bottom though, WFO first, or you'll start chasing your tail.... not that i ever did that....

Sorry for the long delay. According to the butt dyno the bike is pulling hard in all throttle positions. I have been commuting with it every day trying to rack on some miles and see mileage figures as the engine continues to break in. I just purchased ricor intimidators in order to solve my brake dive problem under heavy braking and under two up braking. I also believe this will help solve some of my poor handling on the front end. I notice at some points the forks don't compress, and when they do its not a fluid motion. It's a hard initial dive.

In other news, I took off my windscreen. What a different type of handling the bike has. It handles like my friends ducati monster. The bike is much more nimble, I assume because the windscreen was attached to the handlebars and was creating drag on the bars
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:21 AM   #247
Rob.G
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If you want some decent wind protection, look at the Screens for Bikes (.com) screen... a little pricey, but it works great for what it is. Gets the air off your chest but doesn't drag on the bars because it isn't all that wide.

It'll be hard to relate mileage since you have the TM-40, and some of use have the FCR-MX, while others still have the stock carb. I get 45-48 now, so it stands to reason I'd see similar mileage if I did the 790 (which will eventually happen unless I somehow end up with a new KTM 1190R).

I agree about the idling... keep it to a minimum. Even in cold weather, I'll start mine, idle it maybe 1-2 minutes at most before riding away (gently). Same with my commute bike (FZ1).

If the Intiminators don't do as much for your brake dive as you'd like, drop in some stiffer springs. I used to have Intiminators with stock springs and recently sold them off and went to Gold Valves and 0.47's and the difference is quite remarkable. Even less brake dive, and better handling.

Rob
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:25 AM   #248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
If you want some decent wind protection, look at the Screens for Bikes (.com) screen... a little pricey, but it works great for what it is. Gets the air off your chest but doesn't drag on the bars because it isn't all that wide.

It'll be hard to relate mileage since you have the TM-40, and some of use have the FCR-MX, while others still have the stock carb. I get 45-48 now, so it stands to reason I'd see similar mileage if I did the 790 (which will eventually happen unless I somehow end up with a new KTM 1190R).

I agree about the idling... keep it to a minimum. Even in cold weather, I'll start mine, idle it maybe 1-2 minutes at most before riding away (gently). Same with my commute bike (FZ1).

If the Intiminators don't do as much for your brake dive as you'd like, drop in some stiffer springs. I used to have Intiminators with stock springs and recently sold them off and went to Gold Valves and 0.47's and the difference is quite remarkable. Even less brake dive, and better handling.

Rob
Thanks for the advice Rob I have been doing a lot less Idling and I only keep the choke on for about a minute or two before I start riding away. I also realize while I was washing my bike and I have an exhaust leak coming from where the header meets the cylinder. I need to go get a new gasket for there. I don't remember there being a gasket when I reinstalled. That could also be contributing to my low fuel mileage. Also, my homemade Midpipe absolutely sucks. LOL
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:43 AM   #249
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'yer only gonna be able to reckon the butt dyno if you change the main, and then do WFO.... hell, if that 800 cc thumper runs at all, it's gonna pull hard.... 'yer just lookin' for where it pulls the best, and you don't know where that is til' you make it pull worse, either fatter or thinner.... you dig?....
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:30 PM   #250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davesupreme View Post
'yer only gonna be able to reckon the butt dyno if you change the main, and then do WFO.... hell, if that 800 cc thumper runs at all, it's gonna pull hard.... 'yer just lookin' for where it pulls the best, and you don't know where that is til' you make it pull worse, either fatter or thinner.... you dig?....
Took a few times to read it, but I dig!
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:46 PM   #251
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As far as the mileage goes, if everything stays the same, and the only thing that changes is the displacement of the motor, then it is not uncommon to go down on the main, or drop the needle.

If you run a cv carb, then an argument can be made that increased vacuum signal makes the slide ride higher than it normally would. If not a cv carb, then you could still argue that a larger displacement sucks more fuel through a given jet size than a smaller displacement.

I went through just this on my klx 650 (now a 678)). And I am not quite done yet, but dropping the main from a 160 to a 150 makes it run much better at full throttle, and replacing the klx needle with a klr needle got me 8mpg alone. (from 38 to 46).

I do need to go up slightly on the pilot to cure a little lean surging, because the thicker needle, and the smaller main jet allow for less fuel when cruising.

My way of doing a carb tune:

Set your needle as high as it will go, and change main jets that will give you the highest top speed. If mileage is a concern, go with the leanest jet that makes "no difference".
Then adjust your pilot (and this is where it differs from other guides). find the pilot that gives you best (highest, most solid) idle at fuel screw out between 1.75 and 2.75. (Or something in that range, but you should notice a very definite response. take time in between 1/4 turns). If you need to turn the fuel screw out more than that, go up a size. If the other way around, go down.

After you've found the best pilot, drop your needle until it starts lean surging at cruise. (make sure the engine is up to temp.) and then go back up on the clip.

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Old 04-15-2013, 08:06 AM   #252
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Great write up thanks, looks like a 790 in my future
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:41 PM   #253
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Got the intimidators in today.. What a difference! Very little brake dive and far more control in bumps. Highly recommended.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:27 PM   #254
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2 fill ups, one mixed milage 40 mpg, the other after a highway biased trip, with speeds over 70 for most of the time 47 mpg
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:00 PM   #255
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2 fill ups, one mixed milage 40 mpg, the other after a highway biased trip, with speeds over 70 for most of the time 47 mpg
So do tell how is the bike running? How smooth is the throttle response, and how much pull? Please do tell......
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