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Old 02-06-2013, 10:59 AM   #16
JetSpeed OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
I had an aftermarket LED tail light on my GS for years. Works great, brighter, and has a flashing feature you can opt to use or not.

Too bad the company was flakey!

Jim

PS No reflector, none needed.
Probably either RoadRocketeer or GizmoMill.
Wunderlich has nice LED unit but I don't like the price or the clear lens, it is unclear if the stock lens will fit.

Motorrad Elektrik also has a decent LED unit, I just would rather not have to drop $100 bucks on another gadget if I can get around it.
The BMW unit is sweet but it sets you back a couple hundred smacks.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:04 AM   #17
JimVonBaden
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Originally Posted by JetSpeed View Post
Probably either RoadRocketeer or GizmoMill, many of those were sold by Touratech who doesn't sell anything similar these days.
Wunderlich has nice LED unit but I don't like the price or the clear lens, it is unclear if the stock lens will fit.

Motorrad Elektrik also has a decent LED unit, I just would rather not have to drop $100 bucks on another gadget if I can get around it.
GizmoMill, AKA RoadRocketeer. Too bad, nice unit at a good price, but horrible customer service, and finally went under, a couple times.

I have one now from Chine that was $32, but I need to add a resistor to eliminate the lamp error light. It is similar, and plenty bright. Who know's how long it will last though.

Jim
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:08 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
I have one now from Chine that was $32, but I need to add a resistor to eliminate the lamp error light. It is similar, and plenty bright. Who know's how long it will last though.

I'm guessing that there are lots of people out there that have installed an LED tail/brake light and just live with the Lamp fault error display.
I would be inclined to live with it rather than splice in a resistor.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:35 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
GizmoMill, AKA RoadRocketeer. Too bad, nice unit at a good price, but horrible customer service, and finally went under, a couple times.

I have one now from Chine that was $32, but I need to add a resistor to eliminate the lamp error light. It is similar, and plenty bright. Who know's how long it will last though.

Jim
Here's a similar one:
http://www.adventuretech.ca/

I understand that some of the principals of adventuretech supplied RR and GMill with some work...before RR and GMill went under.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:38 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by JetSpeed View Post
I'm guessing that there are lots of people out there that have installed an LED tail/brake light and just live with the Lamp fault error display.
I would be inclined to live with it rather than splice in a resistor.
I'd rather splice in a LOAD RESISTOR (10 minute job) than live with the LAMPF error forever!
Using POSITAPS...you can reverse the 'splice' and never know that you'd tapped into the wire...should you ever decide you want to reverse.
http://www.posi-lock.com/instructions1.html
That's what great about America...everybody has/makes choices!

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Old 02-06-2013, 11:58 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by _cy_ View Post
there are some very important differences between hot wire (incandescent) vs LED. absolute best place for LED information is Candlepower forums.

might be worth spending a few minutes reading this ... http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...D-Brake-Lights

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...ht-frustration

Sorry, but the lighting modifications/products you're asking about or recommending (homemade taillamps) are virtually all illegal.The exterior lights on a car are are highly regulated safety devices that must perform in objective(!) accordance with the standards.

For any automotive lighting function, it is necessary that the intensity be within the proper limits through the entire regulated range of vertical and horizontal angles to create a recognizable and penetrating signal to observers at any angle to your vehicle. And the intensity ratio between bright and dim modes must be correct for combination stop/tail or park/turn lamps. And the effective projected luminous lens area must be at least the legal minimum. EPLLA refers to the amount of lens area significantly lit up when the lighting device is active, and is much more complicated to measure than just calculating the area of the lens itself. You posted a pic of a newer vehicle's LED stop/tail lamps. Look at the picture and you'll see intricate optics, which you cannot mill or otherwise throw together at your workbench or buy off the shelf -- any more than you could "mill" yourself a pair of working contact lenses for your eyes. The optics must be calculated from scratch for each and every device, even for two differently-shaped devices that use the same LEDs. They are necessary to coordinate the light from a large number of LEDs (relative to the overall size of the device) to get everything right in terms of brightness in both dim and bright mode, uniformity of brightness throughout the visibility angles required by law, ratio of intensity between "bright" and "dim" mode, EPLLA, etc.

Fact is, lighting devices meant to take filament bulbs need to use filament bulbs.

Great post with good information.

Thanks _cy_!


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Old 02-06-2013, 12:17 PM   #22
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Legality

So what happens if you make a lighting change and the insurance contests payment due to the "non-standard" lighting?
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:24 PM   #23
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no need load resistor with Adventuretec unit.
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:26 PM   #24
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So what happens if you make a lighting change and the insurance contests payment due to the "non-standard" lighting?
I guess you're SOL or you lawyer up.
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:28 PM   #25
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For the curious...Federal rules...yawn.

Subpart B - Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards

571.108 Standard No. 108; Lamps, reflective devices, and associated equipment.

http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regul...=r49CFR571.108
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:31 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by jdbalt View Post
So what happens if you make a lighting change and the insurance contests payment due to the "non-standard" lighting?
If the non-standard lighting was deemed to be contributory (e.g. rear end collision...Insurance Co. will argue STANDARD lighting would have lessened chances of collision/ prevented collision at all)...you're ability to recapture your FULL LOSS might be in jeopardy.
What to/need to get a lawyer involved? Cha-ching...billable hours! You lose.

Different topic, though:
Aircraft owners who use non-FAA certified parts as replacements for FAA parts run the risk of FULL DENIAL of a claim if and when non-FAA part is discovered by NTSB!

I had a choice of buying a $1,500 FAA-certified part or $65 non-FAA 'equivalent' automotive part for the plane's "de-ice boots".
No real choice...wrote the check for the 1,500, after review with Insurance company.

LaurelPerryOnLand screwed with this post 02-06-2013 at 12:50 PM
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:56 PM   #27
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetSpeed View Post
I'm guessing that there are lots of people out there that have installed an LED tail/brake light and just live with the Lamp fault error display.
I would be inclined to live with it rather than splice in a resistor.
I would were it not for the stupid yellow triangle. It being on might make me miss being low on fuel, or other more potentially serious issue because I will learn to ignore it.

Besides, for me, a bit of solder is no big deal.

Jim
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:57 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by LaurelPerryOnLand View Post
Here's a similar one:
http://www.adventuretech.ca/

I understand that some of the principals of adventuretech supplied RR and GMill with some work...before RR and GMill went under.
Not bad, but at that price I'd just pass.

Thanks,

Jim
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:59 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by jdbalt View Post
So what happens if you make a lighting change and the insurance contests payment due to the "non-standard" lighting?
I've never heard of that happening, and IMHO the risk is VERY low comparred to the benifit of better lighting and visability.

Jim
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:01 PM   #30
LaurelPerryOnLand
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
Not bad, but at that price I'd just pass.

Thanks,

Jim
Yeah...at $135 for the GS...you can go through 3 or 4 of the chinese versions and still be ahead.

BTW...I saw the Chinese version on the Web and was mightily TEMPTED to give it a go!

Let us know how it works out...have you gotten it/installed yet?
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