TAT bike WR250R or DR650

[HardWorkingDog]

If you go used, there's not going to be a whole lot of difference price-wise between a DR650 and a WRR. But, in our case, it was a false economy to think we were saving money by going with the less expensive bike. We wound up spending it either to upgrade, or fix stuff that broke when you least want to have stuff break.

And, without any personal experience on a DRZ400 to back it up, I put it 3rd behind the WRR and the DR650. Less power than a DR and a 5 speed transmission negates any advantage the larger motor has over the WRR, and the WRR is better engineered--FI, suspension, charging system, subframe, etc.

"Yeah, well, you know, that's just, like, my opinion, man."

[8gv]

Whatever the machine, bike, car, boat or airplane, the length of time owned and operated without mechanical issues results in a level of trust.

Riding the better part of 5000 miles on a, never getting another chance to do it, trip requires extreme trust. If I buy new, I can know the bike from day one. I can break it in correctly and become familiar with what is "normal" for the bike.

But...
Infant mortality could rear its ugly head!
To offset that risk, maybe I should buy a new WR now so that it's well seasoned and well known before the trip begins. After all, I wish not to become a snack for buzzards.

Well that's my spiel for wifey. New bike, right now.

Do you suppose it'll work?

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by 8gv

I suppose it's time to start reading the WR250R thread to get an understanding of how mine would evolve.
Oh, and maybe I need to mention the pending 6 week absence to wifey.

I've read most of the HUGE WR250R thread. Be sure to note the several cases of blown or worn out motors. It's not endemic ... but quite a few more than I expected from the Yamaha. But if you only do the TAT and then a few thousand miles a year, no problem.
Problem bikes seemed to be higher mileage.

No question it's Advantage WR in more technical riding. But answer me this:
How hard of a ride is the TAT? I've not ridden it. Isn't it mostly two track and plain dirt roads? I've done most of the Colo passes on my DR650. No drama with knobbies fitted. Is there lots of steep, knarly single track? If so ... avoid the DR650.

I can see the WR being a great lesson in packing tight and light. The DR gives you plenty of room to hang luggage and junk on ... maybe too much? The WR is tiny by comparison, but I never rode one more than a simple fire road, and never traveled on one. I'm impressed by owners comments here, especially the Baja report ... as I've ridden my DR650 at least 12,000 miles there ... never ONE PROBLEM. How anyone could burn a clutch on the DR is a mystery to me. I'd guess owner induced. I've ridden the Diablo Dry lake bed since 1992 ... I have seen guys on street bikes hit the mud sections at 100 mph (messy and STUCK) ... but no one ever blew a clutch riding out there!

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by 8gv

But...
Infant mortality could rear its ugly head!
To offset that risk, maybe I should buy a new WR now so that it's well seasoned and well known before the trip begins. After all, I wish not to become a snack for buzzards.

Well that's my spiel for wifey. New bike, right now.

Do you suppose it'll work?

Shake down rides are always a good idea IMHO. Test out your set up. How is your luggage working? How are things off road? On highway at cruising speed? What is your true Range? Can you manage all your stuff? Can you do 10 hours a day? Does your riding need more work? A shake down will answer most of that.

But must say ... from the sound of it bub, you won't be going anywhere without "Wifey" ... and probably it will be in a rented Motorhome. But maybe her point is ... you can't afford a new bike? Dunno. If not ... no worries, run what ya brung and be happy.

[8gv]

There is also the "low cost approach". Ride my KLR250 as far into the TAT as possible. If I make it all the way great! If I blow it up at some point I can pull the plate, post a "finders keepers" note, walk to the nearest bike shop and plasticize a new one.

My negotiating might be somewhat compromised by the obvious predicament.

And maybe the walking becomes a little extreme.

[HardWorkingDog]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

...I'd guess owner induced...

Well, the clutch plates sure didn't disintegrate from the bike just sittin' there! So yeah, I'd have to agree it was owner induced.

[HardWorkingDog]

I really don't want to fuel a take-down of the DR650. It is a very good large bore dualsport that took us 5000 miles through the middle of winter into places that not many bikes could've survived.

There are numerous reports here on advrider of riders taking DR's on long rides without a glitch--ADV Grifter for one, I just finished a report from DockingPilot--no problems, and they all love their DR's. Also, we met a couple of Oregon riders in Baja who were heading to South America, both riding DRZ400's and both loving their choice of bikes.

The problems we had with the DR were frustrating, but in no way does that mean the DR should be considered an unreliable bike. Stuff breaks, bad things happen, even to the best engineered, well maintained, smartly cared for motorcycles. When you're on a long trip you learn to "endeavor to persevere" as Josie Wales puts it, or you go home.

(I did read Dirt Rider's Bare Bones Adventure Bike story from November 2010 where they took a DR650 on a Death Valley trip to see how low-cost they could compete with the GS/SE crowd, and ironically (or not) they wound up having major clutch problems themselves. Before our trip i figured, ah--just bad luck or they didn't know how to ride, won't happen to us. Now...)

One other wild card in our experience with the DR is that we did buy it used and have no real knowledge of how it was treated by previous owners. The bike appeared to have been well cared for and it only had 4800 miles on it when my son bought it--a 2007 model. The only modifications were a skid plate and 5 gal IMS tank, both things we wanted anyway, although that could mean it had been used relatively hard offroad. But the plastics weren't scuffed, the stock exhaust was shiny and smooth, it had pavement tires, everything pointed to a garage queen. Who knows?

Anyway, I think my WRR is hard to beat, but honestly you would have a great time on your KLR250.

Good luck!

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog

Well, the clutch plates sure didn't disintegrate from the bike just sittin' there! So yeah, I'd have to agree it was owner induced.

Let me hazard a guess here ... did your son start out on small bikes? Like 80 or 125cc two strokes? From day one those kids learn to use the clutch like a throttle. It's good technique on a motocrosser, especially a 80 or 125cc ... you need to constantly "Fan" the clutch to stay in the narrow power band. The DR should NEVER be ridden that way.
It has TORQUE. Just twist and go ... in nearly any gear.

Any chance this technique has crossed over to his DR650? I could be totally wrong ... just a guess.

If you read through the 13 million view/74,000 post BIG DR650 thread ... you may find 3 or 4 cases of blown or burnt clutches. I'd say that's not bad overall. DR's have a few other problems ... but mostly pretty rare too. 3rd gear tends to break on Australian and NZ bikes ... no idea why ... but very few cases on USA bikes.

If you don't tighten and Loc-Tite the NSU bolts they can fall out and ruin the trans. Beyond that it's mostly basic set up and knowing the bike.
I'm only 5'6" and have no trouble lifting my loaded DR650 ... and my upper body strength is down 40% from where it was 10 years ago.

I may go to a 250 in near future ... but I'm waiting for KLX450 now for sale in Asia. It's got F.I. and is street legal. Will it come to USA? Hope so!

[8gv]

If I can find a WR and DR to test ride that would help. The dealers don't allow test rides and I don't want to be unfair to a private seller from whom I don't plan to buy a bike. Regarding the DR that was bought at 4800 miles, it seems that it's hit or miss on used bikes. I might be buying my last bike so maybe I'll buy new this time.

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog

One other wild card in our experience with the DR is that we did buy it used and have no real knowledge of how it was treated by previous owners. The bike appeared to have been well cared for and it only had 4800 miles on it when my son bought it--a 2007 model. The only modifications were a skid plate and 5 gal IMS tank, both things we wanted anyway, although that could mean it had been used relatively hard offroad. But the plastics weren't scuffed, the stock exhaust was shiny and smooth, it had pavement tires, everything pointed to a garage queen. Who knows?

Anyway, I think my WRR is hard to beat, but honestly you would have a great time on your KLR250.

Good luck!

No question if you guys were riding Baja's more technical single track and rough routes then the WRR is the ticket. Down there light is right for sure. That IS weird about your DR though.

Could it be someone put synthetic oil in it at some point before you owned it? There can be a delayed reaction with this ... even if oil is changed back to NON syn oil, residual effects of syn oil can rear it's ugly head. Once Super HOT, plates begin to slip ... then burn ... as they have been permeated by synthetic oil ... the stuff with friction modifiers. Just another guess of course.

[rickcj7]

Originally Posted by 8gv

If I can find a WR and DR to test ride that would help. The dealers don't allow test rides and I don't want to be unfair to a private seller from whom I don't plan to buy a bike. Regarding the DR that was bought at 4800 miles, it seems that it's hit or miss on used bikes. I might be buying my last bike so maybe I'll buy new this time.

I had both a WRR and dr650, I sold the dr650, the WRR is better at everything except running 70+ mph.
It is smoother, lighter, better handling, better mpg, better suspension etc.......

[BlueLghtning]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

I've read most of the HUGE WR250R thread. Be sure to note the several cases of blown or worn out motors. It's not endemic ... but quite a few more than I expected from the Yamaha. But if you only do the TAT and then a few thousand miles a year, no problem.
Problem bikes seemed to be higher mileage.

I've been in that WRR thread quite a bit and I don't remember really reading too many? Were any of them ones that had big bore kits? Granted its a 250 and some people really wring their necks. Currently I can think of Skiered who's got (~50k) miles on a WR250X that head posted up had a well worn motor after he checked it out. That bike has probably has had a rough life up there in AK. I'd almost say a WRX might have a rougher motor life than a WRR just because of the more road miles those bikes see and more consistent higher revs over time. I also remember reading about another WRX that spit its counter weight through the right side case after the nut came off. Not really a wear issue though.

No question it's Advantage WR in more technical riding. But answer me this:
How hard of a ride is the TAT? I've not ridden it. Isn't it mostly two track and plain dirt roads? I've done most of the Colo passes on my DR650. No drama with knobbies fitted. Is there lots of steep, knarly single track? If so ... avoid the DR650.

I don't think over all the TAT is really that difficult, especially on a small light weight dual sport. Really, the DR or WRR could handle fine. Suspension wise though, the WRR definitely gets the nudge and fact the FI will compensate for the higher altitudes better, but then again, the DR's got more motor all the way around so its probably a trade off.

I can see the WR being a great lesson in packing tight and light. The DR gives you plenty of room to hang luggage and junk on ... maybe too much? The WR is tiny by comparison, but I never rode one more than a simple fire road, and never traveled on one.

Other than maybe trying to keep the weight lighter on the WRR so you aren't trying to carry a house, I think either one would provide you with the same amount of packing room dependent on the rack system you chose. Physically, I feel like I have more room on my WRR just because its taller and has a larger cockpit area. When it comes to DS bikes though, packing lighter is almost always better if you can. I would give the nudge to the DR if you were going to put on hard luggage. It's definitely got more motor to handle that, but then have you defeated the purpose of having a light weight dual sport.

I don't think either are bad bikes, but I know for me the WRR puts a smile on my face way more often than the DR does. :) Both are nice bikes though.

[8gv]

[8gv]

It has been suggested that a spare, smaller, countershaft sprocket might help the WR perform better in some parts of the TAT.

Does it make sense to have the stock one in use in the Easter TAT and then go down one tooth for the western sections?

Can this be done with the chain adjusters only or will I need to take out a link?

[BlueLghtning]

Originally Posted by 8gv

It has been suggested that a spare, smaller, countershaft sprocket might help the WR perform better in some parts of the TAT.

Does it make sense to have the stock one in use in the Easter TAT and then go down one tooth for the western sections?

Can this be done with the chain adjusters only or will I need to take out a link?

I think Stock gearing on the WRR is around 13/43 (13/42 on the WRX) This gearing is terribly high. Most guys guy up on the rear quite a bit which does require a longer chain from stock, but once you get a longer chain, you have a lot of options to run with out changing your chain.

What you don't want to do is drop to a 12 front. That small of a sprocket puts a lot of stress on your chain and the WRR is bad about eating through the plastic protection on the swingarm and then eating through your swingarm if you let it go that far.

Most people gear their bikes like a 13/45 - 13/49 depending on their preference. However, another popular gearing is going up to a 14 front and running like 14/50 or something like that. This also helps keep the chain away from the swingarm. If you were running 14/50, you can easily drop to a 13 if you feel like without taking out a link and that leaves you at 13/50 which is pretty low gearing.

Really though running something like 13/47 all the time isn't bad. I believe that is the gearing I'm running.