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Old 03-28-2013, 09:40 AM   #121
ebrabaek OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongo357 View Post
No problem, the hard part (digitizing) is done and I just have to tweak my spreadsheet.

But first I'll need you to measure the circumference of your tire.
K-60 scout 18 inch.... is 83 inches.... But as they strapped it down, I am sure the effective diameter, circumference is a bit smaller.
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Old 03-28-2013, 02:34 PM   #122
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Another notation here. The arrow headers could have been bend a little better. They do not follow the lines of the stock very well.... In the front, or rear. We all know about them sitting lower than stock, but the back side discharge angle is angling out more, and The pipe is not parallel with the bike. Top that with the fact that you simply cannot get a bolt in the front of the motor, that holds the crash bars cross bar. No matter what brand, the bike right header is partially covering that hole to the point you cannot install a bolt in it..... forget about the cross bar, you simply cannot get the bolt in, without removing the headers. That is pi$$y R&D on Arrow behalf. Three items on one piece, that could have been avoided. Grrrrrrrr.... Sooooo. If you are using the bike right engine block mount for your cross bars, and are installing Arrow headers, it's a no go. I had to hack off the bracket. Other than that...all is fine. But if someone offered me what I paid for the headers, Id hack the stock pipe, as many of you told me to do, to start with......
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:55 AM   #123
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@ Ebrabaek: sorry for the bad headers routing... really Arrow should be more accurate in this.

About the crash bar, I've the Touratech + QD headers and no problem... anyway I've got some trouble with the bashplate (only first production series?) so, nobody's perfect.

About the torque curves, pity You can't deal with ignition advance, too... the hole @ 4000 rpm could be easily filled up.
I'm now waiting to have back my ECU with the last release of remapping, then self adjustment ride and... final dyno test.
Hope to find a workshop that wouldn't complain about my Scorpion Rally tyres: not that easy. Otherwise I'll wait for tyre changing
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:47 AM   #124
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@ Ebrabaek: sorry for the bad headers routing... really Arrow should be more accurate in this.

About the crash bar, I've the Touratech + QD headers and no problem... anyway I've got some trouble with the bashplate (only first production series?) so, nobody's perfect.

About the torque curves, pity You can't deal with ignition advance, too... the hole @ 4000 rpm could be easily filled up.
I'm now waiting to have back my ECU with the last release of remapping, then self adjustment ride and... final dyno test.
Hope to find a workshop that wouldn't complain about my Scorpion Rally tyres: not that easy. Otherwise I'll wait for tyre changing
I Think Arrow could have done a little better job...yes... My biggest issue is the angle towards the muffler. That could be an issue with bigger mufflers. But anyway..... That is the way it is. Does you TT crash bar use both bolt holes in the front of the engine...????? I suppose you could remove the headers.....install the crossbar, and then re install the headers.... as the bolt then can be inserted, and threaded. It is a pity that the PC-5 does not offer the timing advance active for the 8gs. It is great that you can rework your stock ECU. I am looking forward to see how it comes out. Regarding the dyno. I know what you mean on the tires, but as long as you have base line runs with the same dyno, and tire pressure, you will just see lower numbers, and all that is hurt is your ego..... Or at least that was the case with mine....
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:13 AM   #125
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TT crach bars doesn't use any engine bolt.
It's a sort of cage having fixed points only into the frame knots thru expansion plugs, and footpegs bolt.



Panic for me to think about the motor as stressed element during a fall...

Regarding dyno test, unfortunately I haven't the base line... I'm very curious about the result, so maybe I'll temporary put a worn-out road tyre, but anyway not before to need the replacement of the current knobby one.

Then, pity for all of us that dyno doesn't give the idea of throttle reply changing... good result @ WOT, but the real enthusiastic are from other sides: You know what I mean...

PS - pls notice the bashplate mod (only on the right side, because of headers curve)

Gaspare screwed with this post 03-29-2013 at 08:30 AM Reason: PS
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:32 AM   #126
ebrabaek OP
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TT crach bars doesn't use any engine bolt.
It's a sort of cage having fixed points only into the frame knots thru expansion plugs, and footpegs bolt.

[/IMG]

Panic for me to think about the motor as stressed element during a fall...

Regarding dyno test, unfortunately I haven't the base line... I'm very curious about the result, so maybe I'll temporary put a worn-out road tyre, but anyway not before to need the replacement of the current knobby one.

Then, pity for all of us that dyno doesn't give the idea of throttle reply changing... good result @ WOT, but the real enthusiastic are from other sides: You know what I mean...
I cant see how you cannot mount it to the motor.... I would take the frame mounts if they were in place. I would put an old slick tire on it then. Personally I got more out of the " Normal riding on the dyno" than the actual runs. That is where you could see ho ineffective the stock map was. It was border lining on dangerous lean with headers, and open pipe. I am glad I did not run that setup before I PC-5/AT it.

PS. I now see how yours are mounted......
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:16 PM   #127
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Updated Dyno Graphs

OK, I updated the spreadsheet and produced some new graphs.

Using your tire circumference and your description that each run ended close to 8500 RPM, the slip turns out to be ~13%. Seems a bit high, but they are knobby tires. Their drum may not have the stickiest surface, either.



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Old 03-29-2013, 02:56 PM   #128
ebrabaek OP
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OK, I updated the spreadsheet and produced some new graphs.

Using your tire circumference and your description that each run ended close to 8500 RPM, the slip turns out to be ~13%. Seems a bit high, but they are knobby tires. Their drum may not have the stickiest surface, either.



That is really great of you to do this. They were seeing a lot of slip. The K-60 only had about 500 miles on it. I think that is plausible.
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:52 PM   #129
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That is really great of you to do this. They were seeing a lot of slip. The K-60 only had about 500 miles on it. I think that is plausible.

No problem, just looking for a way I can contribute. I'm not a total gear head, so I am usually on the question side instead of answer side on ADVrider, but I'm good with numbers.
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Old 03-29-2013, 04:22 PM   #130
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No problem, just looking for a way I can contribute. I'm not a total gear head, so I am usually on the question side instead of answer side on ADVrider, but I'm good with numbers.
As you just have proven....Well done... Thanks.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:14 PM   #131
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Old 03-30-2013, 03:00 AM   #132
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This thread keeps on giving
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:11 PM   #133
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:29 PM   #134
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Old 03-30-2013, 03:04 PM   #135
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Auto tune on/off is the red switch....
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