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Old 04-03-2013, 12:04 PM   #1
JRose OP
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Anyone tested the new 2013 TT Uppper/lower Crash Bars Yet?

Looking at the new TT upper and lower crash bar set up for the 2013 F8GS, it looks as if those clamps could easily shift on a heavy side drop.

Although, I also think the circumstances would be rare that anything would hit them hard being inboard of the handle bars.

Has anyone put their bike down hard with these things? They're kinda pricey, and I'm doubtful of how much extra protection those uppers will really provide.


I know... Another crash bar thread. Sorry.

At least I don't want to know which one I should buy!
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Old 04-03-2013, 12:39 PM   #2
pkbinder
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Jrose, I have those bars but I have not installed them yet. They are being modified to fit around my larger Remus headers. The reason I bought them is that they dont connect to the engine casing, but to the frame. My old crash bars damaged my engine case in a fall, thereby causing the damage they were supposed to prevent. pk
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Old 04-03-2013, 01:48 PM   #3
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I really want stainless so that limits me to TT and Holan, I believe.

I really like the look of this TT set up, but I need it to work first, more than look good.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkbinder View Post
Jrose, I have those bars but I have not installed them yet. They are being modified to fit around my larger Remus headers. The reason I bought them is that they dont connect to the engine casing, but to the frame. My old crash bars damaged my engine case in a fall, thereby causing the damage they were supposed to prevent. pk
I think you are refering to the 2012 and older crash bars. Touratech's 2013 bars bolt to the engine. I have the lower, but I haven't got the uppers yet because they are out of stock.
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:15 PM   #5
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I picked up the OEM lower set for the '13 F8, and the TT for the upper bars. So far not tested though.
The bolted connection may well slide on the horizontal OEM bars which would lead to a crush on the plastics. It would have to be pretty hard though to break anything.
My only beef so far is the soft TT bolt heads. I was able to tork out the allen socket on two of the heads heads well before the lock nut or bolt were challenged, and in one case even tight. I'm not all thumbs either, I know how to align the tool with the socket so this doesn't happen, so soft metal in the bolt heads is the only conclusion.
My recommendation is if you go TT, get some other SS bolts before assembly just in case. It's always a pain to have to do a job twice because of crappy materials.
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:57 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Captain Excellent View Post
I picked up the OEM lower set for the '13 F8, and the TT for the upper bars. So far not tested though.
The bolted connection may well slide on the horizontal OEM bars which would lead to a crush on the plastics. It would have to be pretty hard though to break anything.
My only beef so far is the soft TT bolt heads. I was able to tork out the allen socket on two of the heads heads well before the lock nut or bolt were challenged, and in one case even tight. I'm not all thumbs either, I know how to align the tool with the socket so this doesn't happen, so soft metal in the bolt heads is the only conclusion.
My recommendation is if you go TT, get some other SS bolts before assembly just in case. It's always a pain to have to do a job twice because of crappy materials.
How close are those uppers to the plastics? I can't tell from the pics I've seen, but it looks like they sit close.
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:05 PM   #7
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How close are those uppers to the plastics? I can't tell from the pics I've seen, but it looks like they sit close.
On mine, at least an inch. The closest is on the left where the bar returns to the frame mount, by the black plastic. That is probably 3/4".
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:34 AM   #8
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On mine, at least an inch. The closest is on the left where the bar returns to the frame mount, by the black plastic. That is probably 3/4".
That's a little close for comfort to me. Although if it's just that close to the black plastic, that might be OK.

I hate mail order stuff. I prefer being able to see things in person before I buy. Ha
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:35 PM   #9
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I saw a set of Altrider bars last evening. Smaller diamater, less protection, and way closer than 1". They were painted steel, not stainless steel, so potential for more rust too.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:44 PM   #10
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We all use Adv-Spec around here. Excellent, strong, über protection, fast fast shipping, and excellent service. Ours get used. Never an issue.

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Old 04-19-2013, 04:44 AM   #11
FredRydr
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My SW Mototech bars are heftier than many, and were designed to keep the important bits off the ground. When down, the upper front of crash bars, a hand guard and a pillion peg bracket are all that make contact unless you go into rocks. For four years, I've touched-up the bar with black semi-gloss every so often, though last time I had them powder-coated. The hand guards get the brunt of the hit, but they're strong, and I have an extra set in rotation if I bend one. The pillion bracket doesn't seem to show much.

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Old 04-19-2013, 05:20 PM   #12
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Alt-rider ones here, and they do move on a hard drop.

Just remember, that the crash bars in the advent of a crash (even a low side) is meant to protect the plastic and pretty much act as a sacrificial part.

They are not meant to be 100% sturdy for you'd risk bending the bolt holes, the frame/engine where they mount up.

Let things fall and recognize that they're supposed to give at a certain point.

It's much better to buy another pair of crash bars than to start and try to price out plastic!

Stainless (silver) won't show the scratches, but black w/ scratches has more character!
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Old 04-19-2013, 07:01 PM   #13
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That's the concern, not how the bars hold up, but how they'll protect. The new TT set up looks like a lot of protection, but they look like they're mighty close to the body which makes me leery of the protection actually doing the damage.
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