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Old 02-12-2013, 07:48 AM   #16
papaduc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA Slammer View Post
As for hooking it up to the tow vehicle for charging... will it charge through the 7 pin wiring harness when both vehicles are parked? Does the tow vehicle have to be running? Will it take it's charge from the van's battery or the RV's battery bank? If I run the RV's generator while parked, will it charge the trailer also?

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If your running the gen on the RV (tow vehicle?) you could use any battery charger to keep the trailer batteries up to snuff.
Being in the middle of building an Japanese bastard love child between a Sprinter and a Titan...solar only makes sense if you like to park in the direct sunlight. If you already have a generator solar doesn't make sense from a $ standpoint.
That is a very nice looking trailer to start with and I'm looking forward to seeing the improvements.
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:27 PM   #17
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It could get charged through the 7 pin, but I would not hook it up like that. If you hooked it up to the van to charge, you'd best use a battery isolator. This allows the van to charge the other batteries but power used in your trailer won't drain your van battery. If you're using your trailer a lot, you're vehicles charging system might also need an upgrade. I'm not familiar with what is in your van but I'm sure there is an alternator made for the ambulance version that will make a lot of power.
Err, on the 7 pin RV plug, there is a generic hot wire in the spec, but be warned, SOME factory setups don't connect this on your vehicle to anything. Check it to be sure. But on all the ones that DO have this wired, OF THE ONES I'VE SEEN, they were all SWITCHED power. So you could hook up something to charge off this in your trailer and not have any worries of it draining your vehicle's battery. But again, check this. It's very easy to do with a voltmeter.

On trailers with a battery to power the break-away electric brakes, this pin *is* how you keep that battery charged, I do believe. So that's pretty much what it's there for.


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Old 02-12-2013, 04:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djb_rh View Post

On trailers with a battery to power the break-away electric brakes, this pin *is* how you keep that battery charged, I do believe. So that's pretty much what it's there for.


--Donnie
That's exactly the level of detail I was thinking of. Maintaining a little break away Battery is different than charging a couple massive deep cycle batteries from 0 charge. I'd be wiring it through an isolator and use more than the factory 18g little wire. Not to mention, most passenger vehicle alternators aren't meant for that load on a continuous basis. Typically youd have to run ahighway RPMs to charge at a decent rate. It would be a reliable back up. I'd put it in a switch, like you mentioned.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:05 PM   #19
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That's exactly the level of detail I was thinking of. Maintaining a little break away Battery is different than charging a couple massive deep cycle batteries from 0 charge. I'd be wiring it through an isolator and use more than the factory 18g little wire. Not to mention, most passenger vehicle alternators aren't meant for that load on a continuous basis. Typically youd have to run ahighway RPMs to charge at a decent rate. It would be a reliable back up. I'd put it in a switch, like you mentioned.
That factory hot wire on the 7 pin SHOULD be something bigger than 18g, but I get your point, it's still not going to be awesome for a large battery, no.

If I were to want something bigger, there are two routes I'd consider. One is an off-the-shelf winch wiring kit for non-permanently mounted winches (which are usually on 2" receiver hitch mounts). Those are jumper-cable sized with huge plugs. The obvious benefit here is if you ever need to get yourself a hitch mounted winch.... ;)

The other option is to figure out exactly what you need and want and buy component parts. In this case, I'd use whatever gauge welding cable you feel is appropriate. It's very soft and flexible and has sheathing that's very high quality for harsh environments. Then for plugs I'd use appropriately sized Anderson Power Poles.

And to isolate it as a switched circuit, whatever size big fat solenoid you need (I hate that the automotive industry calls them solenoids when it's really a relay, but solenoid is what the auto parts store people will know). You'll have to do this part yourself whether you use the winch kit or your own wiring, though, as the winch basically uses a big solenoid to run it, so it's integrated. You can put the solenoid near the battery under the hood, which is where you'll attach either of these solutions anyway.


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Old 02-12-2013, 05:34 PM   #20
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Well, as usual, already confused. I need an electrical engineer friend.

Anyway, here is a pic of the RV and Toyhauer...



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Old 02-12-2013, 05:41 PM   #21
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Hopkins Wiring - H20046


Trailer Connector RV Style 7-Way Blade with 8' lead.
  • Pre-wired 7-Way Trailer Connector
  • Measures 8 feet long including connector
  • Wire gauges:
    • 14 gauge - red, brown, green, and yellow
    • 12 gauge - Blue
    • 10 gauge - White and Black
The charge from the tow vehicle depends on mfg.



My trailblazer and ram 2500 both shut off the power to the trailer socket when engine inst running to prevent dead starting battery.


I run separate wires back direct from the battery and use Anderson connectors.





http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-po...s-175-amp.html


I have plug on trailer too and a cord to go between them.
I put a set on my jumper cables too
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:13 PM   #22
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I'm pretty sure my RV battery bank is way up front and the Sprinter is 22' So that'll be a long run.

I eventually will have a few solar panels on top of the Toyhauler. I'm hoping to set things up so this will charge the RV battery bank as well.

And when there is no sun, I would like the RV's generator to charge the Toyhauler's battery bank.

So this would be a two way street depending on whether the Toyhauler's solar panels were charging or the RV's generator was charging.

So would running heavy gauge wire from battery to battery with a disconnect at the hitch be all I need? Sounds too simple.
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:22 PM   #23
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Well, as usual, already confused. I need an electrical engineer friend.

Anyway, here is a pic of the RV and Toyhauer...



WOW! looks great, very cool setup!
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:20 AM   #24
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Thanks guys, had to sell some other toys to make it happen, but it'll be worth it. Getting my boys out camping and dirt biking more this year will be fun.

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Old 02-13-2013, 05:44 AM   #25
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That is a very nice setup.

To simplify it even further you could just use the correct battery charger for the trailer battery (lead acid / AGM) and plug it into a gen 110v outlet. Another thing to keep in mind, it's not good do discharge a deep cycle RV type battery lower than 50% of it's capacity. If you plan the trailer battery bank correctly it's possible to have 4 to 5 days of judicious use without needing any charge.

Taking the kids out riding and camping.....a father with his priority's straight.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:09 AM   #26
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I wouldn't use anything bigger then 12 or 14 gauge wire for the trailer battery charging system and then fuse it at no more then 10-20 amps. You need to be careful so you don't overcharge the batteries as 40 amps or greater will boil them dry and then you're toast. The only way you need welding cable is if you operate a high amp load like a winch, but even then the load is short lived so a 175 amp service is a bit overkill.
My GMC truck has the trailer 12V hot wire attached to a 40 amp pin with fuse and I have to watch things when hooked up for a long trip. Also my GMC boasts the voltage to that pin when the truck is in "tow/haul" mode for the transmission selector. This voltage boast does a quick charge but can also cook the batteries. My work around for the overcharging potential was to use 4, 6volt golf cart batteries hooked series/parallel to give me 12VDC at 460 amp hours. I then added a bettery tender made for tending two banks of 12V batteries and this keeps them charged when at home and ready for use. As also mentioned some people use a battery isolator. I don't as I always unplug my trailer when I get to the campsite. I like to use the truck for hauling firewood or whatever plus getting the trailer level with the truck hooked up can be tough sometimes.
I have a pic my of battery bank if anybody wants to see it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by djb_rh View Post
That factory hot wire on the 7 pin SHOULD be something bigger than 18g, but I get your point, it's still not going to be awesome for a large battery, no.

If I were to want something bigger, there are two routes I'd consider. One is an off-the-shelf winch wiring kit for non-permanently mounted winches (which are usually on 2" receiver hitch mounts). Those are jumper-cable sized with huge plugs. The obvious benefit here is if you ever need to get yourself a hitch mounted winch.... ;)

The other option is to figure out exactly what you need and want and buy component parts. In this case, I'd use whatever gauge welding cable you feel is appropriate. It's very soft and flexible and has sheathing that's very high quality for harsh environments. Then for plugs I'd use appropriately sized Anderson Power Poles.

And to isolate it as a switched circuit, whatever size big fat solenoid you need (I hate that the automotive industry calls them solenoids when it's really a relay, but solenoid is what the auto parts store people will know). You'll have to do this part yourself whether you use the winch kit or your own wiring, though, as the winch basically uses a big solenoid to run it, so it's integrated. You can put the solenoid near the battery under the hood, which is where you'll attach either of these solutions anyway.


--Donnie
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:16 PM   #27
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I know it's not that big a deal, but...

I scored big today! Went looking for some type of rug for the floor of the Toyhauler. The walls and ceiling are insulated, but the other night when it was 19 degrees out and my 9 yr old and 6 yr old and I slept out "just because Mom", stepping onto the UNINSULATED floor was crazy cold! Like sticking your tongue to a flagpole cold.

So off to Lowes I went. Hmmmmm, what do they have. After looking at everything and wondering what to do, low and behold I find a rolled up, returned, remnant of grey outdoor carpet; 9 x 10! PERFECT! Got it all cut it and it looks (and feels) GREAT! I cut it in two sections, so it would be easy to pull out the garage part when loading bikes. Here's a couple pics. I know, just carpet, BUT...





My guess with three young boys, the bathroom carpet will get hosed down more than the garage part!

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Old 02-13-2013, 06:35 PM   #28
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Looks great!

How is that heater? Any fumes? Did you run it all night?
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:48 PM   #29
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That is a nice rig and hauler. Perfect for camping / riding with the boys!
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:58 PM   #30
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We ran the little electric heater the night we stayed out with the temps in the teens. It didn't keep things that warm, but absolutely no smells.

As for the Mr. Buddy... I got the bigger one because I wanted to make sure it would warm the area. Shit, it does the job! Usually I keep it on high for 15 minutes and the place is HOT! I then turn it on low which keeps it still very toasty even with the pop out bed open. Crazy warm heater. I'm pretty sure the smaller one would work fine, but I always hate when you push the limits of something and it doesn't do quite what you want... like the small electric one did.

So, to answer your question... YES, you can definitely smell it. The smoke detector and the CO2 detector did NOT go off even when fully buttoned up. I tested it by running the heater for a few hours. So what how would I sleep while running the heater? Well, I think I would have the pop out open (which should be enough in and of itself), I would have both upper and lower side vents open (bottom should dissipate any CO2 fumes) and I would have a roof vent cracked open. Efficient? Probably not.

I don't know, the trailer would be well ventilated for sure. I still feel "weird" having an unvented propane heater on in a small 6x7x10 aluminum box... you know. Thinking about it... keeping the heater right next to the bottom side vent would probably dissipate some of the smell. Which isn't that bad...but noticeable.
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