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02-23-2013, 05:43 PM
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#91 |
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,,,
Joined: Oct 2001
Location: South Tejas
Oddometer: 679
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billy p! The free online Babylon site was used to translate your drool. If you had your two German friends right there w/ you they would easily have known it was software such as Babylon that did the translation.
Carl
__________________
http://www.flyingtpot.com/ Don't be a dick. I'm growing weary of having to follow you around cleaning up the arguments you seem to invariably involved in. Thank you. Dave BINGO |
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02-23-2013, 05:53 PM
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#92 | |
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,,,
Joined: Oct 2001
Location: South Tejas
Oddometer: 679
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Quote:
In your eight posts here at advrider you've shared more technical info, and in a more pleasant/interesting manner, than any 5K plus odometer poster. That is so kool! Hmm.. a bit pressed for time at this moment. I'll comment on the sound vibes discussion down the road. Time to go listen to some Ege Bamyasi. Cheers, Carl
__________________
http://www.flyingtpot.com/ Don't be a dick. I'm growing weary of having to follow you around cleaning up the arguments you seem to invariably involved in. Thank you. Dave BINGO |
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02-23-2013, 05:54 PM
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#93 |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,041
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02-23-2013, 06:04 PM
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#94 | |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,041
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Quote:
I was hoping your German wasn't that bad. ITMT, MOST everyone knows those online translators can be pretty bad. supershaft screwed with this post 02-23-2013 at 06:32 PM |
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02-23-2013, 08:38 PM
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#95 |
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Along for the ride
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Vancouver Island
Oddometer: 912
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Edelweiss Motorsport, I am currently building an engine and would appreciate your insight in the following issues. When machining the piston to head squish band do you make each parallel to the other or slightly open in angle? What clearance do you recommend? Thanks for any input you care share.
__________________
__________________________________________ "There's a fine line between a skinning and a shearing" |
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02-23-2013, 11:32 PM
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#96 | |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2011
Location: New Zealand
Oddometer: 713
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Quote:
I dunno, the Bing one seems to translate ok
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02-23-2013, 11:34 PM
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#97 |
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Confirmed Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: backwoods Alabama
Oddometer: 3,846
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Most excellent thread*** I'd skipped over the early part because I thought it was another 2-to-1 (oil/battery/tire) thread.
Carry on. --Bill *** of course, I've got some on Ignore, which helps. ;)
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'73 R60/5 Toaster Bill Harris screwed with this post 02-24-2013 at 04:28 PM |
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02-23-2013, 11:53 PM
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#98 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: PSL, FL
Oddometer: 683
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Typical Superschuft infested thread...
Would be interesting for Dirk to comment on the common Street Cams seen here abouts, other than the 336. |
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02-24-2013, 02:17 AM
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#99 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Bavaria
Oddometer: 327
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Quote:
This post was not intended to be a personal offence. Just a warning to a newbie to this forum. |
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02-24-2013, 02:38 AM
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#100 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Bath Uk
Oddometer: 996
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Sounds as if someone's nose has been put out of joint.
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__________________
Charles http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps6e61ae2e.jpg R90s 1070 replica, R90/6 1971 Commando Fastback |
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02-24-2013, 05:42 AM
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#101 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Feb 2013
Location: Essen Krautland
Oddometer: 14
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Making a good thing better - and using the hot rod....
Sunday lunchtime sitting in front of the fire post,
RecycledRS - yes here you bring up one of the burning spots, as I was writing before: the clearance is one thing, shape and form makes the next difference. In general: 1. There are calculation basics that i found to be used in full out race engines to define the squish area in relation to the bore. 2. Yes I use both, I machine the outer diameter area parallel and then open it in different angles depending on the complete setup, sometimes on bores up to 94 mm I keep it parallel all over. 3. If you are not a friend of the last detail go with all done parallel instead of risking to use the wrong angle....since this blows it all. 4. Machining the end of the squish too round and smooth will also blow the magic by a huge factor...better keep it edged, whatever they tell you in any book. 5. To take care of what is happening please hold in mind that you have to overcompensate the squish work - so go get the effect by the minimum possible losses. 6. Squish work is living from and at below 1,5 mm... 7. To make it tighter and tighter will not be of direct linear effect - this is the next step where you see if someone knows what he is doing or not. On a high or even just good performing engine the squish must be a part of the concept and / or corresponding to all what you do. How far are you willing to go ? When will it be ok for you ? Or are you looking for perfection anyhow ? Answer this before you start doing it yourself ! Below 0,75 mm you will find no effects that are worth being discussed in any case.....this is just valid for our 2V BMW engine ! Here are some more questions / comments to give you the most possible complete picture - To give a useful advice please tell me: What bore diameter below what exact cylinderhead are you using ? What is the piston to cylinder clearance ? Steel liner or alu Nikasilcylinders ? What camshaft will be used ? What conrod length are you about to use ? The last question is underestimated or even missunderstood most times. It comes from the fact that the kinematic effects of the conrods are misinterpreted very often. If you try to calculate what is the outcome of a longer conrod in relation to the latheral forces from piston to cylinder you will find out that it is in our case not worth talking about it. All started for me when I was building the first complete self engineered engine using the 97 mm Mahle cylinders that where available and common that times. It was my intention to fabricate a very light and small two ring piston that was leading me to a conrod that has to be 13mm longer then the std. one. So in 1993 I ordered 148 mm conrods from Carrillo - and this was against all trends and all what the well known tuners that times, even the woks bmw people where doing. They all reduced the conrod length to 125 mm using very light titanium conrods.... Ok on the dyno we could not believe the effect - it was the first ever build two valve bmw engine pulling veritable and often measured by different magazines 100 plus HP. This is not questioning what Udo Gietl did in the 70's but as the time went by I got all engines from all mentionable tuners on my own dyno and I can tell you by 100% safety the strongest one was the engine of my first ever race engine customer European Champion Mr. Julius Ilmberger who delivered an engine to me prepared from the works tuning guru Mr. Otto Lantenhammer in Munich. After I was overtaking him with my bike on a straight at Dahlemer Binz which was a famous airfield race that times he came to me saying: whoever was building the engine in your bike will build engines for me from now on. This Lantenhammer engine has already a 100 mm bore and an output of 92 HP - all others where below that figure...! Ok we did longer conrods, other pistons, new heads with std. port angle instead of the straight ones an other cam and generated close to 110 HP with 45 mm Bing slide carbs. Julius Ilmberger and his team mate where then classic bears champions using Edelweiss Motorsport engines and parts. The longer conrod has a great influence because it makes the piston stay longer at TDC and when it is there it is part of the porting. So as a side hint: try to understand the system and make your piston dome flowing.... However the longer conrod is also supporting the exhaust side and was at one time resulting me to develop and use asymmetrical cams. Try to think around the next corner and you will see quite clear that conrod length has to fit the squish. Carl - thanks for the tip !!! now try to find Sade Adu on youtube singing charish the day on her lovers life tour 2001...what grace and beauty combined with a package of coolness and sex, wow this is breathtaking ! Alternative from Sweden and a total different direction - band junip - song: line of fire Keep on rocking in a free world....yours, Dirk Edelweiss-Motorsport screwed with this post 02-24-2013 at 07:01 AM |
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02-24-2013, 06:38 AM
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#102 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Bavaria
Oddometer: 327
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Quote:
the name's Udo Gietl. I have a loose email contact to him and although he represents the 70ies era he has a lot to tell. At the moment he's restoring his old R90S street bike, giving it a roller cam setup. It's often heard that the old power figures are exaggerated. I tend to believe that. On the other side in '76 the B&S bikes were trapped at over 143 mph or 234 km/h top speed. The later bike at more than 150mph. With near stock R90S aerodynamics. I'd say it takes some serious power to get there? Greetings to the fire post Rudi |
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02-24-2013, 07:43 AM
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#103 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Feb 2013
Location: Essen Krautland
Oddometer: 14
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Udo and his younger sister Helmut
Hi Rudi,
Yes you are right - I never had the chance to dyno Udo's engines and this is the reason why mention him explicit at this point. The bikes where fast and yes you are right again power numbers today are harder to get since correction factors and norms where making them much more conservative. When I started I was trying to get all available information about the B+S bikes as well as of the very very fast Wolfgang Schnepf engine - which I consider the strongest at that times with 1000ccm during the wunderful bot years. Wolfgang was a young innovative BMW Ingenieur that times and later worked for Porsche in Weissach. We met each other at a race in Oschersleben and stayed in contact since I work for Porsche on a loose basis as an instructor since then. Tell Udo and his sister Helmut that he should not go for the roller cam - I did all this and still have all parts on stock....but for a lot of reasons it is not the way to the holy gral. Flat tapped cams are easier to get modern profiles on. If he is trying to get nascar technology, like some guzzi dudes did, inside the flat twin tell him it means 17 mm valve lift or even more which will not fit into the rocker geometry at all, beside this you calculate the lift in approx 28% of the valve diameter...so this is also a question to be answered. So better using a current racecam, mushroom lifters if necessary....etc. If he wants to take the next step - our all new developed billet heads are around the corner.....not thinking this is right for a vintage R 90 S. Best regards to Udo and Helmut ! Dirk |
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02-24-2013, 08:48 AM
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#104 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Bavaria
Oddometer: 327
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Hi Dirk,
Udo's restoring his bike to be like it was in the 70ies, not developing it any further. Greetings, Rudi PS: there's a slight chance that I'll ride to the Classic TT in August. I might drop in for a coffee then. Any holiday planned then? |
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02-24-2013, 02:14 PM
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#105 |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,041
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Easy Less, you might ask more questions or contradict Dirks opinions if you knew more and had some experience of your own with topics of this discussion. I was basically asking just one question but I never really got an answer so I am giving up on that issue. I know a lot of inmates that appreciate my comments on 336's that counter a lot of the cams negative legacy. Some of it I agree with but I think some of it's supposedly negative attributes are actually good things. There is no need to ask Dirk about things I have been advocating for a long time here. Late model small port heads and long rods are two of the bigger things IMO.
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