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Old 06-23-2013, 09:15 AM   #1
UndeadJed OP
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Location: Reno NV
Oddometer: 12
Clutch Switch "To be or not to be?"

New to building, I can turn a wrench, fix a dent, and follow a manual. But when it comes to electronics I have about a 40% confidence level. I am currently on the Wiring Harness of the build. Since I am going with a new head lamp set up, it forced me to relocate the wiring cluster that was in the head lamp can. That lead me to start thinking about the handle bars, and all its wiring. I am going for a very Spartan/Nihilist look for this first build. I plan on threading the wires through the bars, and looking to decrease as many as the wires as possible. Which brings me to the clutch switch question. I have looked into it and this is what I have gotten.

As long as I remember to have the clutch engaged or make sure the bike is in neutral at start up, eliminating the clutch switch shouldn't be an issue?

While I am at it, here is a description of my set up. For helpful advice and/or healthy criticism.

Ignition- located near or around where seat meets gas tank
Clutch Side- horn and turn signal
Brake Side- Run/Stop, Start and turn signal
Instrument Cluster- single speedometer (not sure at this time what make)
3 indicator lights. Red for oil pressure, Green for neutral, and Yellow for turn signal (just a blinker to let me know I left it on)

Thank you,
James

*** Edit***
1976 R75/6

UndeadJed screwed with this post 06-23-2013 at 10:16 AM
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:02 AM   #2
StmbtDave
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A clue on what bike you're working on would be a big help unless I missed it somewhere
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:09 AM   #3
disston
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An indicator for the alternator is helpful because if it doesn't go out at higher rpm you will know there's a problem before the bike dies from running too far on the battery. On the Airheads the red light for the alternator is also needed for the alternator to work properly. You can substitute a resister but the light has multi purposes.

Indusdtry standard seems to be red for the alt, orange or yellow for oil (I think). Green is what we have for neutral. Good to have the turn signal light, yes.

I have not had a clutch switch for many years. I do have a neutral switch and so I have to have the bike in neutral to start. For a few years I didn't have the neutral switch either and so the green light was permanently on but I was used to it. It never caused a problem

My ignition switch is a toggle in the left side battery cover. It is in series with a keyed switch which is normally left on but if I want to disable the toggle I can lock the ignition with it.
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:10 AM   #4
AntonLargiader
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UndeadJed View Post
As long as I remember to have the clutch engaged or make sure the bike is in neutral at start up, eliminating the clutch switch shouldn't be an issue?
The /5s did not have the switch. So you can bump the bike forward in gear if you hit the starter at the wrong time. Usually not a big deal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
I have not had a clutch switch for many years. I do have a neutral switch and so I have to have the bike in neutral to start.
I wouldn't ride a bike like that, although some people have ridden them that way for years without knowing it's wrong. Bike stalls in traffic and you have to find neutral before you can get out of the way of the truck bearing down on you? You really want your bike to work that way? I'm hoping you never let anyone else ride it...
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:16 AM   #5
Bill Harris
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Mine has never had a clutch/neutral safety switch (pre-NHTSA). Out of habit I shift into Neutral and pull in the clutch before starting. But if I'm stalled in traffic or on a hill, it's nice to pull in the clutch and hit the starter.

Like Anton sez.

--Bill
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:37 AM   #6
UndeadJed OP
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Thank you all for your input. Wiring for instrument and lights will now be.
Speedo, neutral (green), alt (red), oil psi (orange), and turn lights (yellow). The switch at this point is a "not to be".
Again thank you all,
James
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