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Old 02-19-2013, 02:34 PM   #1
Sniper X OP
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Is a /6 electronic ign stock?

I forget....
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:35 PM   #2
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Quote:
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I forget....
No, even the /7 had points ignition. I had a Luminition unit in my 80/7 and had no trouble with it.
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:36 PM   #3
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Nope. Points.
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:48 PM   #4
Sniper X OP
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What is the best electronic ign for one then?
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:23 PM   #5
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What is the best electronic ign for one then?
I just installed a Boyer in my R100 /7. Seems to run just fine. The mid-range has improved / smoother, but admittedly, my points and advancer unit were in rough shape, so new points would have been an improvement as well.

I got mine from Rocky Point Cycle. Everything went a-ok.
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:30 PM   #6
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You have several choices. Do you want to have a complete electronic conversion that will eliminate the ignition points and the mechanical advance. The hottest stuff has most recently been the conversion to crank mounted electronic conversions. You can have a Hall sensor to eliminate the points but keep the mechanical advance. Or you can keep the OEM stock system but take the high Voltage pressure off the system by incorporating a Booster.

The most expensive is the crank mounted systems, around $500, and the cheapest are the stock system with a Booster, about $80.

I'm a fan of the Booster. The points are kept in place but should last many years with occasional checking and adjusting. If the Booster fails the OEM set up can be reverted to and only needs moving a couple of wires.

There are many adamant fans of any of the other systems also.
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:36 PM   #7
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personally I am a fan of the ignition boosters.
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:48 PM   #8
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I am Old School. Straight points work just fine.




My "new" bike is an '83 with bean can and black boxes.... works great, but only until it doesnt.... I KNOW and can fix what ails a points system, the black box is fixed with $$ only.

ymmv !
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:25 PM   #9
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Real old school would be a monkey poking a flaming stick into each spark plug hole. Then you could upgrade to dual sticks. Or for real high performance dual monkeys- each with 2 flaming sticks. That was an early precursor to dual plugging!!
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:43 PM   #10
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Probably the most common if you go with a Booster is the DynaTek. It's compact and available from sellers on Ebay or Amazon;



There is a cheaper one that you can build yourself. Comes in kit form;



This ignition booster is made by Velleman. I bought mine at Arcade Electronics and after shipping it was less than $30. I am waiting for a break in the Winter's weather to put it together.

http://www.arcade-electronics.com/Ve.../vel-k2543.htm
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:36 AM   #11
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A booster reduces the service time on points, but retains the mechanical AR, which by now may be giving less than ideal results. The Dyna 111 replaces the points with an electronic switch, but retains the AR unit.

A proper electronic ignition replaces the whole lot, and can have a choice of ignition curves. The Boyer curve is designed to reduce pinging and help tickover.

Various choices from Boyer, Sachse, Silent Hektik. Boyer is probably the easiest available in the US. Alternator mounted ignitions can retain points as a back up.

Points or electronic,, it's a bit of a philosophical question, some people swing one way, some the other.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:12 AM   #12
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On older bikes, /5's, 6's and 7's, I like the Dyna electronic ignitions. I prefer modding the advance weight springs to slow the advance curve slightly, but still allow it to go to full advance at revs above 3.5k-4k. (easily done by shortening the spring and using the next winding to secure it to the advance weight pins).

One significant operational advantage of the Dyna ignition over a Boyer is that it will still fire if for some reason your battery voltage drops below 12V. Even if your battery drops as low as 6V or less, you'll still get an ignition spark if you can kick or bumpstart your bike.

A Boyer ignition won't fire with a weakened battery. Forget the exact cut-off voltage, but it's not far off 11.8V, if memory serves.


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Old 02-20-2013, 11:15 AM   #13
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Now that ^ is a PROPER ignition!!!

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Old 02-20-2013, 11:36 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lornce View Post
On older bikes, /5's, 6's and 7's, I like the Dyna electronic ignitions. I prefer modding the advance weight springs to slow the advance curve slightly, but still allow it to go to full advance at revs above 3.5k-4k. (easily done by shortening the spring and using the next winding to secure it to the advance weight pins).

One significant operational advantage of the Dyna ignition over a Boyer is that it will still fire if for some reason your battery voltage drops below 12V. Even if your battery drops as low as 6V or less, you'll still get an ignition spark if you can kick or bumpstart your bike.

A Boyer ignition won't fire with a weakened battery. Forget the exact cut-off voltage, but it's not far off 11.8V, if memory serves.


I was under the impression that Boyer had done some changes to their units that allowed them a little more wiggle room under 12v. (I thought I read that somewhere)
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:04 AM   #15
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I was under the impression that Boyer had done some changes to their units that allowed them a little more wiggle room under 12v. (I thought I read that somewhere)

I'm pretty sure that Boyer have revised their ignitions, the problem was that under certain low voltage conditions, they reverted to full advance, which made starting difficult. I think that we are talking about under 10 volts for the early units.
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