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Old 03-06-2013, 10:00 AM   #136
HardWorkingDog OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WoodsChick View Post
Eric and I are thoroughly enjoying this report, HWD! ...
Thanks! Too bad he's got to view it on that leetle iPhone screen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleWan View Post
That's a cool close up!...
I've got a few decent photos...considering I'm using a beat up little P&S
camera that was found under the sofa when we were moving my son
out of his college apartment last year.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dano619 View Post
Nicely done on the fresh fish tacos!!
They were awesome!

Edit note: I realized this morning I'd got my fish species mixed up.
The sea bass comes in later in the story...we were eating halibut
that Adam had speared. The sea bass are easier caught with rod & reel.




I don't need a fishing pole, Bert...


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Old 03-06-2013, 07:11 PM   #137
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fresh Halibut tacos.. YUM !!

Keep it coming !
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:23 PM   #138
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hwd, i've never been as far as bahia los angeles. glad to see the landscape, one day...that is if i have the 21 days.
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:35 PM   #139
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hwd, i've never been as far as bahia los angeles. glad to see the landscape, one day...that is if i have the 21 days.
Heck, it should only take you 20 days, you're starting from Burbank, right?



(I'm an ex-pat from 91214, still have family there...)

Anyway, you've got to get to Baja California Sur--it's a fascinating place, very different from Norte.
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:10 AM   #140
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Day 22, 1/21/13
Surf Day




We spent the day doing some bike maintenance, playing horseshoes, and resting-------
somewhere along the way I'd picked up a cold virus and I was dragging a bit.

Our hosts were really generous, sharing their car camping supplies, and we did our part by
bringing in the swell. It had been flat for several days, but the day we pulled in the swell
picked up, the wind turned offshore, and they were stoked. This started about 7 days of
double-overhead waves and they took full advantage of it.






Remembering that Bruce Brown was first and foremost a surf filmmaker here's my
homage to Endless Summer...



(before proceding, click on the link--Endless Summer--, wait till it's buffered and starts playing,
come back to this window and THEN you can scroll through the photos.

Yes, just do it. I'm serious here.)



My lazy way to get a soundtrack...



















































Another glorious day in Baja.




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Old 03-07-2013, 07:12 AM   #141
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The great Bruce Brown!
A perfect soundtrack for your surf picture narrative.
Endless Summer made me wanna be a surfer ( I never really followed thru ).
On Any Sunday made me wanna be a racer ( followed thru on that one )!!!

I'm really enjoying this RR! Thanks for "taking us along" !
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:55 AM   #142
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Gear Lesson #6: the "zoom" feature on a Canon SD 1200 IS is...........worthless.
I hate seeing those horrible surf photos, but it's all I had.
Anyway, onward...


Day 23, 1/22/13
Surf Camp to Bahia Asuncion




This was one of those days that almost felt like a grind, hey this IS a 6 week trip of a lifetime in Baja--even
a grind of a day is pretty memorable. First, we were dreading crossing into Baja California Sur without our
Tourist Visas----gulp. Our surf camp friends had a good laugh when we told them about our run across the
border, there's a pretty strict inspection station just north of Guerrero Negro where the state border cuts through
Mex 1 and they were sure we'd get caught and fined. We debated about trying to skirt around through back
roads, but I didn't want to feel like fugitive so I decided we'd just go through the inspection, 'fess up, and take
our licks.

We got packed and said goodbye to Adam & Ryan and rolled out------and within 5 miles I'd gotten the first
(and ONLY, as it turned out) flat of the trip. A 3 inch long rusty nail. Woo-hoo, I've changed plenty of tires in
my shop but never had to do it on the trail, but I was prepared. Went pretty smoothly---no photos of
course!----and we were back on the dirt road to get to Mex 1.





The plan was to get out to Bahia Asuncion (the lower left corner of the map above) and from there we'd have
a long stretch of dirt right along the Pacific, eventually heading over to San Ignacio over the next day or two.
However, that meant today's ride----after the nice bit of sandy rocky twisty 2 track leaving Surf Camp--was
going to be 170 miles of asphalt.

The weather was warm--clear skies, 80+°F--and if felt good to ride as long as the air was moving. As soon as
you stopped though you'd be sweating. We pulled into the inspection station north of Guerrero Negro and there
were 3 officials waiting for us, all in uniforms. The first one asked me for my Tourist Visa and I'd got about
4 words into my carefully rehearsed plea for mercy when he asked,

"You're Americans?"

Yes.

"You're on vacation?"

Yes.

"Move along, these aren't the Droids we're looking for..." Huh???

OK, he didn't really mention Droids but he didn't care that we had no Visa, and waved us on! Unbelievable...lucky
again. I repeat--DON'T ride into Baja without a Tourist Visa like we did--just not worth it.

We rode through Guerrero Negro, a dry dusty hot settlement and stocked up on gas, water and food, and spent a few
minutes making phone calls. This was the first time we'd had cell phone coverage since leaving San Felipe
five days ago. The only photo I have is the cool water filtration store.





We handed over our 4 three liter water bladders and a 1 liter Nalgene bottle and the fellow behind the window
filled them up, charged us about $2. That's a deal.

Now for the grind--just miles and miles of straight Baja paved roads, strong crosswinds, dust, sand. What a complainer!
These kinds of distances just wear you out, much harder than riding dirt roads for some reason. By the time we made
it to Bahia Asuncion it was nearing dusk, and as we rode up and down the main road we couldn't seem to find a place.

Right at the start of town was a little "resort"--camping, showers, wifi according to the sign--but when we pulled in
we found a large dirt lot, one little structure, and it was completely deserted.





Bahia Asuncion is a nice little town but pretty far off the tourist track. Everyone out on the streets stared at us--with
curiousity and friendliness--and we noticed the kids were all dressed in fashionable clothes--ugg boots, nice jeans,
everyone wearing colorful backpacks. It seemed like a prosperous place. I asked around at a cafe and was told the
place we'd been to earlier was the only place to camp, and it was open.

Back we rode, and still deserted. I got the attention of some workers nearby, and stumbled my way through Spanish.





We were told to talk to the people in the yellow house





...friendly people, the patriarch pulled out his Android smartphone, dials a number and gives
me the phone--it's the owner of the campground, she's a gringo, said we could camp there, put $10
in the coffee can inside the shack, enjoy the showers, and if you want you can sleep inside the shack!





Woohoo, basically we had a one-room motel for the night, hot showers, and best of all the place was lined with
paperbacks. We traded in the books we'd brought and finished, and hit the road the next day with a couple new books.





We were living like kings!
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HardWorkingDog screwed with this post 03-08-2013 at 08:21 AM Reason: acckording????
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:05 PM   #143
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sweet caught up.. keep it coming !
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:16 PM   #144
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Been following from the start. Bruce Brown ENDLESS SUMMER music was just great, I wanted to get out in the waves and surf! Great writing, great photos. Waiting for more.
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Old 03-08-2013, 02:10 AM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
...... By the time we made it to Bahia Asuncion it was nearing dusk, and as we rode up and down the main road we couldn't seem to find a place.

Right at the start of town was a little "resort"--camping, showers, cabanas acckording to the sign--but when we pulled in we found a large dirt lot, one little structure, and it was completely deserted.





Bahia Asuncion is a nice little town but pretty far off the tourist track. Everyone out on the streets stared at us--with
curiousity and friendliness--and we noticed the kids were all dressed in fashionable clothes--ugg boots, nice jeans,
everyone wearing colorful backpacks. It seemed like a prosperous place. I asked around at a cafe and was told the
place we'd been to earlier was the only place to camp, and it was open.

Back we rode, and still deserted. I got the attention of some workers nearby, and stumbled my way through Spanish.



We were told to talk to the people in the yellow house





...friendly people, the patriarch pulled out his Android smartphone, dials a number and gives
me the phone--it's the owner of the campground, she's a gringo, said we could camp there, put $10
in the coffee can inside the shack, enjoy the showers, and if you want you can sleep inside the shack!





Woohoo, basically we had a one-room motel for the night, hot showers, and best of all the place was lined with
paperbacks. We traded in the books we'd brought and finished, and hit the road the next day with a couple new books.





We were living like kings!

The woman you spoke with is Shari Bondy....she and her Mexican husband, Juan Arce (ace fisherman) operate several excellent rentals In Bahia Asuncion.....http://www.bahiaasuncion.com/php/

Wonderful folks willing to help you out however they can....I highly recommend them....I have stayed there a few times.

One of their rooms beside their home (they have houses to rent, too):





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Old 03-08-2013, 08:28 AM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoged View Post
The woman you spoke with is Shari Bondy....she and her Mexican husband, Juan Arce (ace fisherman) operate several excellent rentals In Bahia Asuncion.....http://www.bahiaasuncion.com/php/...
Wow, perfect! Yes, Shari is her name, and thanks to your link I can now remember the name of the campground is Campo Sirena-----the Sirens were mythical creatures who lured sailors to shipwreck by their...enticements

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Old 03-08-2013, 08:41 AM   #147
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Shari and Juan really are awesome peeps. I believe Campo Sirena is named after their daughter.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:59 AM   #148
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...I believe Campo Sirena is named after their daughter.
But who (or what) was the daughter named after???

That Siren song is pretty hard to resist.........



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Old 03-08-2013, 11:50 AM   #149
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Day 24, 1/23/13
Bahia Asuncion to Laguna San Ignacio




Made our breakfast of avocado, spam, salsa and scrambled egg burritos---spam tastes GREAT when you're
camping------and french pressed coffee, said our goodbye's to the neighbors, and roared off into the morning
sun feeling like world travelers.





One of the neighboring kids who we'd seen that evening riding a horse in front of the campo brought us back
down to earth. As we turned onto the main road he returned our friendly wave with an adv salute. Kids are the
same the world over...

This was a great day of riding--mostly dirt, mostly away from anything but beautiful natural surroundings and
never far from water, rode about 175 miles this day. We saw some great surf spots along the first part
of the ride, waves wrapping around points for miles and miles and the road were fun, fast sand for the most
part.






As we neared a village the road went right past a small cemetery. We found it fascinating.








Found a Pemex at Punto Abreojos just as I was wondering if I'd need to borrow some gas from the super-
tanker DR.

From there we got back on pavement heading northeast to Mex 1 and San Ignacio. The pavement aches started
showing up by the time we got to San Ignacio. We filled up our tanks and bought supplies and water from a well-
stocked market right next to the Pemex.





We debated about whether we should spend the night here, but it was still early afternoon.
There are some nice places to camp along the river on the north side of town but we decided
to just buy lunch and keep going towards Laguna San Ignacio, to what I wasn't quite sure. Quien sabe?

Had some tasty tacos at the Cafe Azul right on the edge of the town square overlooking the church.





I really liked the cool, dark patio where we could sit in the shadows and enjoy our food.

It was feeling very tropical and the grip heaters had been long since packed away and seemed
a distant memory from another trip.





From the restaurant the road turns up a steep dirt alleyway, I remember thinking what the...?, and plops you right onto
newly paved section of road. It looks like I could have found another way around the pavement, but that'll have
to be for next time. Soon enough we're back on sand though, speeding along the plain towards the Laguna. It was
dry and fun, we were having a great time although I had no idea where we were going to spend the night.

As we approached the Laguna we began to see signs for tourist camps--turns out there are several along the Laguna
that specialize in whale-watching and we randomly picked one--Campo Kuyima. It was a great place to camp.






There were only a couple other groups there and we all shared a campfire that night, listening to the
traveling tales and being entertained by the 2 young sons in the camp right next to us. They had been out in
a whale watch boat the day before, and were very excited about how they'd been able to touch a young calf, held
up to the boat by the mother whale.

The most amazing thing was that the evening was so calm and still you could hear the whales breathing. All night
long, the unique "pooooffffffff...." of their exhales.



It was a very memorable place.




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Old 03-08-2013, 12:03 PM   #150
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Really enjoying the RR. I have mulled over the idea of a baja adventure for a while now, and you're not helping it any. I all goes well, early next year is a time frame that looks promising. Keep up posting those great pics, and great commentary to go along with the pics.

well done!
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I got a real good feeling something bad is about to happen,
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