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Old 03-03-2013, 03:56 PM   #121
LittleWan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post


What a beautiful shot!

So lovely.

Sorry to hear that you guys had such cold, windy weather.
Low 40s!

Your AAA map is almost as worn out as ours
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:07 PM   #122
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Originally Posted by DingWeed View Post
Those Palapas were sure a nice place to camp!!!
Yeah, one of my favorites. We'd have camped there again on the way back but the timing just didn't work--rode through there about noon and needed to keep going.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleWan View Post
What a beautiful shot!

So lovely.

Sorry to hear that you guys had such cold, windy weather.
Low 40s!

Your AAA map is almost as worn out as ours
Glad you liked that...as I was going through the photos that one really stood out to me. One of my favorites of the whole album.

The cold weather that week in San Felipe wasn't bad because our room had an electric space heater that we ran all day long--we stayed toasty, playing cribbage and eating pan dulce, thankful we weren't out camping in that stuff. I think it is one of the few places in Baja that has any heating. The day we headed out the weather changed to calm and warm.

I dunno, I think our map is just about toast. Whaddya think?



The upper half is hanging on by a piece about 3 inches long...I actually was getting worried it wouldn't hold out, and while we were camping north of La Paz a Canadian couple saw our map and gave me one of their spares just in case. I never used it, but slept better knowing I had a backup.
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:54 PM   #123
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Always like camping at Gonzaga. The wind can catch you off guard sometimes..

Great report, and liking the pace.
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:17 PM   #124
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Charles,

Enjoying your RR

Glad your back rolling again !
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:00 PM   #125
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Day 20, 1/19/13

We wake up




to an even more spectacular sunrise




and drink fresh brewed coffee from the Jetboil french press. I've learned to enjoy it black--who needs crema y azucar? Not me. We're looking forward to another day of riding and exploring new stuff. Today's goal is Bahia de Los Angeles, or maybe Cataviña, quien sabe?

Cataviña is famous among climbers for its boulder fields and Bryn wanted to see if we could find some good bouldering problems to solve. To get there we were going over a dirt road that goes through Coco's Corner, a place that I've thought about since 1971, watching On Any Sunday for the first time. Woo-hoo!




The amphitheater, and restrooms...




As we pulled in to Coco's, a little dog ran up to greet us.




He must've been lonely--Coco was in Ensenada for eye surgery--and he followed us around while we drank our Cokes and talked to the truckers who'd stopped there for a break. As we were getting ready to leave he ran up to my bike, lifted his tiny leg and left a drop of two of pee on my front tire. Cute little guy...

Little did I know what he'd started. From that day on, every time I pulled into a new town my bike was THE place, if you were a male dog within a mile range. They would circle around, waiting for their chance to mark my front tire, and let every other dog know it was THEIR spot. This went on for weeks...and of course, Bryn thought it was hilarious-----I tried washing it off, riding through streams----nothing helped.

Cute little guy...

The road out of Coco's south is fun--rocky, some sandy spots, dusty, we were stoked and rode out to Mex 1 right at Lake Chapale--you can see the lake bed off in the distance,




but we turned north for Cataviña on the pavement. There were definitely bouldering opportunities there,




but we couldn't find a good place to camp--either deserted, sketchy or windblown so we turned around and blasted down 1 all the way to Bahia de Los Angeles.




The town felt kind of rough but we found a decent place to camp north of the town at a place called Daggett's. Nice palapas, no food or drinking water, but, best of all HOT showers. Muy caliente!

We cooked a nice supper,




shared some stories and a campfire with the neighbors,




and slept like kings.
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:28 PM   #126
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Loving this report. . . .
When we went through Catavina a few years ago (cool town, cool boulders), we stayed at a nice little rancho just south/east of town, north of the highway. Did you see that place, is it still there? They had camping spots and breakfast. I think the last couple years have been tough on the Baja tourism industry though.
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:37 PM   #127
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...Did you see that place, is it still there?...
Yeah, I'm pretty sure I know exactly what you're talking about. We rode in there, the cafe lean-to looked deserted and the wind was really howling. We just weren't feeling it there, it was still early afternoon, so we decided to keep going.

There was also place that had signs for camping north of Cataviña along with some kind of museum? but it was deserted and gated off as well.

There were lots of deserted places in Baja, particularly in Norte. Sur seems to have a little more stable non-tourist-based economy
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:21 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post
Yeah, I'm pretty sure I know exactly what you're talking about. We rode in there, the cafe lean-to looked deserted and the wind was really howling. We just weren't feeling it there, it was still early afternoon, so we decided to keep going.

There was also place that had signs for camping north of Cataviña along with some kind of museum? but it was deserted and gated off as well.

There were lots of deserted places in Baja, particularly in Norte. Sur seems to have a little more stable non-tourist-based economy

That's too bad. They made good huevos rancheros, though the instant coffee left something to be desired. I'm sure the road trip tourism has been hit harder by mexican violence than the fly in to baja sur sector.
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Old 03-05-2013, 03:49 PM   #129
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Day 21, 1/20/13
Bahia de Los Angeles to the Pacific







Up to this point our hoped-for offroad in Baja trip hadn't been very offroady. We were a little gun-shy
after that mud-eating-the-clutch-for-lunch episode but after a couple days of absolutely no issues
with the repairs we were determined to get back to some more serious dirt.




We headed back northwest on the pavement for a dozen miles and took a left on a dirt road that would
take us up over the spine of mountains that runs through the center of the peninsula. It was a glorious
road, especially the first half as we climbed through rocks and ruts and cactus forests, just magificent.




The boojum trees are something out of Dr. Seuss.




I was leading most of the way, as usual, but finally my son had enough and decided to ride at his 50% pace
(which is close to my 100% pace) and moved on ahead. As I came around a blind turn he had discovered--




--a mud hole. Like hitting a patch of ice, he'd had no time to avoid it and took a nice mud bath.

Guess what I did. I laughed at him! Felt good for a change, too.




His saddlebag wore that mud-badge the rest of the trip.




We took a little side road to see Mission San Francisco de Borja--BigDog had recommended--and it's well
worth a visit.




The mission was originally built from adobe, and then the standing structure was quarried from the native
stone you can see on the hillside above. As an architect I really enjoyed seeing the stone arch construction.




The building is about 250 years old and is still being used. I find it hard to imagine the technology to build a
stone vaulted celing with nothing more than hand tools.




The windows set in thick stone walls typically have chamfered openings to help reflect more light into the
inner rooms.




The steepest stairs in Baja




--and he's got to have something to scare mom with




We left the mission--the dogs left their mark on my front tire of course--and rode on out to Mex 1. The road
from the mission drops down quickly to the valley floor and is mostly deep sand--our favorite. We made
good time and then headed for one of the few stops we had planned in advance: meeting two of my son's
friends and co-workers at a secluded surf spot for a couple days of Pacific Ocean fun.

We got to the coast and rode several miles along the beach, not sure exactly where they were camping.
Riding on the beach was another dream I'd had ever since watching Malcolm, Steve and Mert playfully
making tracks alongside the waves at Camp Pendleton.




It was just as good as in the dream, even though I was just riding a
straight line...

We were looking for Adam's beat up ol' Suburban, and hadn't seen anything for miles. Wait, what's that
up ahead...no way!




We found them, miles from anything------unbelievable. I think my son was happiest--someone his own
generation after 3 weeks with-------dad.



I pretended to fool with the gps.




They had EVERYTHING! Trader Joe's. Ice. Fresh fruit. 2 Buck Chuck. And, most amazing of all, fresh fish. Remember the
2nd best fish tacos, at Alfonsina's? Well this was where we had the best fish tacos. Ever. Adam is quite a
spear fisherman and he had just caught a nice big halibut in the pools just offshore. They fileted the fish, breaded and fried it, we
pitched in and worked on the condiments...




Yeah, we stuffed ourselves with the melt-in-your mouth goodness of fresh halibut.




We stayed there for 2 nights, living like kings.

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HardWorkingDog screwed with this post 03-06-2013 at 08:32 AM Reason: here fishy fisHY FISHY
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:17 PM   #130
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Excellent, HWD!!!

Thanks for pointing me to it.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:13 PM   #131
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Excellent, HWD!!!

Thanks for pointing me to it.
huh? What, me hyping my report???

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Old 03-05-2013, 09:55 PM   #132
LittleWan
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Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog View Post

The boojum trees are something out of Dr. Seuss.



That's a cool close up!

Lucky you, fresh fish tacos!
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Old 03-06-2013, 04:22 AM   #133
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huh? What, me hyping my report???

In a place of this size, it's necessary. WAY too much good stuff gets overlooked.
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:33 AM   #134
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Eric and I are thoroughly enjoying this report, HWD!
We look forward to every installment. Looks like you're getting into the rhythm of the road and are taking more photos now. Love it!!




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Old 03-06-2013, 07:25 AM   #135
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Nicely done on the fresh fish tacos!!
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