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Old 05-24-2013, 08:38 AM   #346
gunnerbuck
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: N.V.I, B.C.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtwpaul View Post
went to start the bike today after its sitting for a few days, did the exact same thing, did not turn over, pulled in the decomp lever and let it spin a few trimes and then closed it...tried again and it fired right up, did this three times in a row and instant fire everytime with no throttle or choke...i guess its a learning curve for me and the bike...

on the battery test no significant drop in volts and steady charging when running

just waiting on Derek to get back to me so we can review jetting and float height for my set up, i'll reference Bills 142.5/45/1 notch as it is completely different set up than mine
Bill has the smaller valve engine where the carb came with a smaller mains from the factory...

The stock jetting on the 640 hi flo was 152.5 / 45 / 3rd notch... This jetting is not far off with the stock set up... I added a better flowing exhaust with a quiet core [no airbox mod] and bumped up to 155 with good results at sea level... A lot of guys that also crack open the airbox will bump up to 157.5 or 160 if they run without the sparky/restricter...
With your setup and considering the elevation you plan for I would start at a 155/45/3rd notch and make sure your float level is ballpark as per manual... The mains are an easy swap through the bowl plug without removing the carb...

With the starting difficulties your describing, I would recommend that you replace the battery right off... Using the decomp lever to help roll the engine past compression is something that normally should only be needed on occasion and not every time... I have dealt with the same thing twice as my battery aged and lost it's backup push... As soon as the new battery went in the engine turned over with much more gusto and started with ease.. With your bike being near new I would assume that your auto decomp, starter motor and sprague clutch would all be in prime condition which leaves only a poor battery and jetting as causes to your starting difficulties...
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:55 AM   #347
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Fuel screw set using this procedure.
Open for fastest idle, close until idle breaks down, go to center of that movement, close screw 1/4 turn.
That would be quite a bit too lean for my tastes.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:32 AM   #348
Reinhold
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With the starting difficulties your describing, I would recommend that you replace the battery right off... Using the decomp lever to help roll the engine past compression is something that normally should only be needed on occasion and not every time... I have dealt with the same thing twice as my battery aged and lost it's backup push... As soon as the new battery went in the engine turned over with much more gusto and started with ease.. With your bike being near new I would assume that your auto decomp, starter motor and sprague clutch would all be in prime condition which leaves only a poor battery and jetting as causes to your starting difficulties...[/QUOTE]

You probably have already eliminated this cause but is your auto decomp working? Maybe the cam has worn down. Do you hear the audible "click" when you kick the bike over.
Best answer is the battery as mentioned above.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:48 PM   #349
bmwktmbill
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
That would be quite a bit too lean for my tastes.

Regards,

Derek
You are correct Derek, I am a gas miser.

Would you say a half turn too lean?

bill

Paul, I have the LOW FLOW engine so my jetting is meaningless for your machine.

How to set the float height and adjust the fuel screw are something we can share, I have a crazy way to set the float height where I attatch a piece of old fuel line to the gas inlet spigot and blow while raising the float with my finger(carb body with float hanging), when the air leakage stops and the float is level/parallel with the carb frame, I call it good.

Works for me.
Works when I am far from hearth and home.
bill
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bmwktmbill screwed with this post 05-24-2013 at 11:02 PM
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Old 05-25-2013, 04:49 PM   #350
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Would you say a half turn too lean?
The procedure I recommend when gas analysis is not available is:

Adjust fuel screw to 2- turns out from lightly seated. Start the engine, let it warm up and ride the bike around until it's hot. Using the idle speed screw, lower the idle speed below the factory spec. Adjust the fuel screw so that the strongest idle is achieved. You will notice there is a threshold where it becomes rich enough (enough turns out) to run strongest, beyond which no change is noticed. Adjust the idle mixture screw ~1/8-1/4 turn out from this threshold. Adjust the idle speed back to 1400-1500 rpm.

If I was setting the bike up for economy or knew it would see much higher altitudes at times, I would not add the ~1/8-1/4 turn out from the threshold.

I don't know how many turns away from your method either of these would end up.
Quote:
How to set the float height and adjust the fuel screw are something we can share, I have a crazy way to set the float height where I attatch a piece of old fuel line to the gas inlet spigot and blow while raising the float with my finger(carb body with float hanging), when the air leakage stops and the float is level/parallel with the carb frame, I call it good.
The procedure I recommend:

Preset the tang on the float setting tool to the desired height. Set the tool's width just wider than the width of the floats. With the carburetor in your hand with the downstream side facing your palm and your forefinger holding the base of the cage tightly against the body, rotate the carb so that the float tang just just touches the needle's spring-loaded plunger. With your other hand, hold the float height tool onto the carb body, making sure it is square to the gasket surface front to back (side to side is taken care of since the tool straddles the floats) and so the tang lines up with the point on the float that is farthest away from the body. The tool's tang should just touch the float but not depress it. Flip the tool 180 degrees to check the other side of the float. If the other side is different, you can decide whether to use the high side, the low side, or an average to set to.

The stock height is 14.7mm, but I found that 640LC4s tend to run richer toward the bottom of the rpm range at all openings, which is exacerbated by the larger main jet that is required when opening the airbox. I therefore recommend using 16.7mm when the airbox has been opened. A main jet one or two sizes larger should be installed to go along with this change.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:31 PM   #351
rtwpaul OP
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todays delivery

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Old 05-30-2013, 11:42 PM   #352
theGrinch
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Thumb

sweet.

good luck to you, will be watching.



.
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:06 AM   #353
rtwpaul OP
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wish i was "rolling" out of Vegas this week but i still have another year stuck here

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Old 06-01-2013, 10:59 PM   #354
Droptarotter
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Originally Posted by rtwpaul View Post
wish i was "rolling" out of Vegas this week but i still have another year stuck here


Paul;

Is that you getting an escort??
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Old 06-02-2013, 07:07 AM   #355
RoninMoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtwpaul View Post
todays delivery

Sweet!
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:18 AM   #356
rtwpaul OP
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Paul;

Is that you getting an escort??
without all my Klim gear on i look a lot older
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:20 PM   #357
wikedhdwifey
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Ha!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtwpaul View Post
Hancock Pass Colorado - FAIL....nothing but KTM's flying by me, never saw another yamaha or any other brand come to that, ride that route better or quicker than a KTM...sold me

don't want this to get into a debate on what is better than what, i have made my choice and after 75,000 miles i wanted a change over and OUT
I remember a certain XR, with a rookie on it, pass that Yamaha on HanCOCK Pass.....
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:52 PM   #358
Wikedhd
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Location: Lake Charles, La.
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Black!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtwpaul View Post
i filled the tank, got the stated 27 liters in it ...took the bike for a quick test ride and had some carb issues, back home carb rebuild and now its all good

rode 75 miles today and everything seems to be where i want/ need it to be, just need to change the gearing to 16 or 17/42 for more streetable riding, right now its at 15/45 which is wheelie territory in every gear

headed out to Calico Basin this afternoon and here's the finished article



the graphics were done by a company here in Las Vegas called 702 hydrographics

the plastics are coated with a hydrographic 'real fire' film over a special paint and then clear coated for durability, might not be everybodies ideal color scheme but i like it, and thats what counts....and it make me visible to the crazy car drivers here in vegas...but don't be surprised if the bike turns solid black when i'm heading into a country where i need to blend in as much as possible

i'm heading to Overland Expo this weekend so if you are there stop by and say hello

*****once i come back i'll go over the auxiliary oil tank and a few other minor items
Looking good Bro!!! But yes it would look so much better BLACK!!!
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:53 PM   #359
Castleman
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Your SXC will become a very trusty friend. I wish I could tag along on your adventure. Some spare parts that I would suggest for the very reliable LC4 is both water pump bearings and seal and a spare intake roller follower. If you find your coolant is slowly going away and you have no external leak, rebuild your water pump. If you find both intake valves are loose, your roller follower is failing and needs replaced. I think the LC4 is a perfect bike for RTW work, it should be a fun trip. Good luck.
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:57 AM   #360
MeinMotorrad
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Apologies if this has already been mentioned/dealt with but, have you considered swapping your regulator/rectifier for a mosfet type? I know RoninMoto's (post above) 690 stock has failed. That's the second one on his bike to go.
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