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Old 02-22-2013, 07:22 PM   #1
Albany Airhead OP
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Wicked New Airhead

Hello fellow inmates. I just bought a 1975 R75/6 with 20,000. It fired right up and the valves sounded good the smoke disappeared after it warmed up. I have a few months before the riding season and was wondering besides changing the oil and plugs what else I should do? I think the oil pan gasket may be leaking slightly.

Also I think I got a pretty good deal but what is a running roadworthy bike with some marks on the paint worth? I saw one and jumped on it and now I'm just wondering if I jumped too fast. Any and all advise or thoughts are welcome
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:36 PM   #2
Rob Farmer
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You may find the oil pan gasket is fine and the oil sitting on it is from the pushrod seals.

Change the gearbox oil for a quality 80/90 oil - this needs to be at least a GL5 spec. Differential oil is usually better for airheads.

Final drive and swinging arm oil need to be swapped as well.

With that sort of mileage you should have many years of riding ahead of you. Enjoy!
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:50 PM   #3
Lornce
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Ride it long enough and you'll never give a second thought to whether or not you overpaid for it.

Enjoy!

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Old 02-22-2013, 09:27 PM   #4
akabeton
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Welcome!!

It is worth exactly what you were willing to pay for it.

Enjoy the bike ( I can assure you, this part is easy )

Take care of the basics.

You are in good company here if problems do arise.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:36 PM   #5
Mista Vern
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I'd also drop the pan and clean out any settled gunk and also clean the sump screen. Easy peasy, just don't over tighten teh bolts and break them off!

What Albany are you in?
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:52 PM   #6
Big Bamboo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albany Airhead View Post
Hello fellow inmates. I just bought a 1975 R75/6 with 20,000. It fired right up and the valves sounded good the smoke disappeared after it warmed up.
Has this bike been sitting for awhile? With that few miles indicated, it must have been parked a bit. I would wonder about the age of the tires and switch to new ones first thing. If need be. Also, quiet valves can still be too tight valves, best to check them, torque the heads and set the timing, just to set a baseline. I'd also want to give a look under the front cover to check the advance unit, points and felt blocks usually need lubrication and adjustment.

Big Bamboo screwed with this post 02-22-2013 at 11:58 PM
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Old 02-23-2013, 12:11 AM   #7
disston
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Welcome to the Asylum. We are the Inmates and now you are one also.

Changing the motor oil and gear oil should be easy. Did you get an on board tool kit with the Hex Keys you'll need for this operation? The oil filter is super easy to get to on that model. What was said about the oil leakage being actually from the push rod tube seals is probably true. There's also an oil pressure sensor on the left side of the block under the dip stick that sometimes leaks.

Did you get a manual with the bike? Tool kit and one of the aftermarket manuals would be advisable.
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:47 AM   #8
Bill Harris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mista Vern View Post
I'd also drop the pan and clean out any settled gunk and also clean the sump screen. Easy peasy, just don't over tighten teh bolts and break them off!
I'd add: check for odd bits (metal chips or flakes etc) in the oil pan and tighten the oil pickup screen bolts while the screen is off for cleaning. The big issue with the oil pan bolts is stripping the aluminum, so be careful.

There is a "dipstick measurement procedure" for the driveshaft oil which is a PITA. Better/easier to put in a measured volume, which is 150mL of the 80/90W Hypoid gear oil. Be carefuller with the fill/drain bolts on the driveshaft, they are super-easy to strip.

Get a manual (Haynes or Clymer) and feel free to ask questions...

--Bill
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:05 PM   #9
Albany Airhead OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mista Vern View Post
I'd also drop the pan and clean out any settled gunk and also clean the sump screen. Easy peasy, just don't over tighten teh bolts and break them off!

What Albany are you in?

I am in ny. I have the manual so if I use the recommended torque should I be okay?

Thanks,

Kevin
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:08 PM   #10
Albany Airhead OP
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Originally Posted by Big Bamboo View Post
Has this bike been sitting for awhile? With that few miles indicated, it must have been parked a bit. I would wonder about the age of the tires and switch to new ones first thing. If need be. Also, quiet valves can still be too tight valves, best to check them, torque the heads and set the timing, just to set a baseline. I'd also want to give a look under the front cover to check the advance unit, points and felt blocks usually need lubrication and adjustment.

I bought it from the second owner. The first owner put 15k on it. The second owner had it for ten years and put 11k on it so it has been running every summer for the past ten years. It has new tires but I do need to buy a new battery. Can I get a smaller one with the same cold cranking amps for a reasonable price?

Thanks,

kevin
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:29 PM   #11
disston
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Very lucky find.

You can get a smaller battery, an AGM, for around $60, I think. It will have 18 CCA which is a little less but works fine. Somebody will post a link or we'll send you to one of the many battery threads but right now I'm on my way out the door to go back to work. If nobody else gives you a lead I'll post something later tonight.
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Old 02-23-2013, 02:32 PM   #12
Albany Airhead OP
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Thanks I found the thread. I really appreciate all the advice.
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:04 PM   #13
ozmoses
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I'll tell you what, although I do run an Odyssey, I also use a couple AGMs from AutoZone-easy fit, good service life, better price!
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:10 PM   #14
gplane
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Front Cover

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Bamboo View Post
Has this bike been sitting for awhile? With that few miles indicated, it must have been parked a bit. I would wonder about the age of the tires and switch to new ones first thing. If need be. Also, quiet valves can still be too tight valves, best to check them, torque the heads and set the timing, just to set a baseline. I'd also want to give a look under the front cover to check the advance unit, points and felt blocks usually need lubrication and adjustment.
If you pull the front cover, disconnect the battery first, otherwise it's easy to fry the diode board.
First hand experience.
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:12 PM   #15
Mista Vern
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I'll tell you what, although I do run an Odyssey, I also use a couple AGMs from AutoZone-easy fit, good service life, better price!
OOOOOoooo, good tip! I am needing a battery also and am cheap. Usually I run lawn tractor batteries, but will also check these out.

Albany, yeah torque per recommondations and you should be fine.
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